Skip to content

Beginner Forum / Archived topic

Another 5DII owner looking for a rig

Started by Plyschmannen ·

  • 18Posts
  • 18Replies

Read-only discussion

Another 5DII owner looking for a rig

18 posts
  1. Just as Proveg wrote a few weeks ago, I've got a 5dmkII, and looking to get a housing for it. I was first going for an Ikelite, but then got turned off by it since I could'nt use my 16-35mkII. I have however done some more thinking, and I can't really justify spending that much more money on something thats still a hobby, and have to be replaced when I get a new house. So back to the idea of Ikelite.

     

    Since I have the 100 2.8 USM macro and the 35 1.4, I was thinking to get some kind of fish-eye, and then have both the wide end of the 16-35 and the long end. Too bad you can't change lenses under water...

     

    The stuff I put together on B&H (way cheaper, even with freight and import tax and whatnot, then buying it in Sweden) is this:

     

    Ikelite 6871.02 eTTL Housing f/ Canon 5D mark II $1,519.95

    Ikelite Flat Port for SLR Housing for 4.1 to 5.125" (10.4 to 13cm) Lens #5505.45 $141.95

    Ikelite Dome Port for SLR Housing for 3 to 4" (7.6 to 10.1cm) Lens #5503.50 $189.95

    Ikelite 3944.52 Substrobe DS-51 Package $616.95

    Ikelite 4044.1 Substrobe DS-51 Head Only for Digital Still Cameras $379.95

    Ikelite SA-100 Deluxe 1" Diameter Ball Socket Arm System with 6" Double Ball #4086.61 $151.95

     

    I've gone the route to 2xDS-51 flashes instead of the DS-160. The kit contains a Y-splitter for TTL. I'm not 100% sure about this, but two pairs seems to be recommended. Unsure if they will provide enough juice for a 15mm UW fishey though. I've also gone with Ikelite´s arms, mainly because I don't really know what else to get/what fits/what you can get a BH.

     

    I have though about filming with the 5d, but I guess you need video lights to do that, and you can't really use a video light for shooting stills, can you? And there is this lingering fear that if a UW strobe is expensive, a video light would be even more so ...

     

    Since I'm a cocktail diver, it will be used in warm clear water, I'm guessing a lot of times in Thailand on liveaboards or 2-dives a day trips with fairly large ships. Packing/size/weight will be of consideration.

     

    Any feedback will be appreciated!

     

    /Björn

  2. I am likely to finalize my order this week with one of the official vendors on this forum.

    I can also say that given the situation, if you reason with someone, they may make it worth while getting the housing from them rather then from BH who is my usual choice for photo needs.

    If you like, send me PM, and I will let you know who I am likely to place an order with.

    Coming back to choices of ports and lenses, I think going for an 8" dome when doing WA is the best option, I have yet to find out why 16-35II doesnt work with Ikelite, but I actually have a backup choice of tamron 17-35 F2.8-4 which is a very good copy and sharper then 17-40 canon with the added benefit of 2.8 on a wide end, so it might be a cheap solution to just buy 17-35 tamron and have it as a backup/underwater lens.

    going with the fisheye, I also think is a good idea although I think you will need to ether have a different port or port body when using the dome. I may go with an alternative of using tamron or kenko teleconverter to extend the lens a bit closer to the dome.

    I already bought single used DS-125, but I think going with the ULCS boyancy arms / 1" ball system is a better choice then going with ikelite arm system and not much different in price.

    Once I see the effect with single strobe, I may decide to get the second one which will likely be needed.

    Ether way, I again suggest to talk to people that have tried just about all systems and options out there, just as James have suggested.

     

     

    Oh, PS. for now I have been recomended that diopter is not needed, so for now I will go without it.

     

     

     

    Just as Proveg wrote a few weeks ago, I've got a 5dmkII, and looking to get a housing for it. I was first going for an Ikelite, but then got turned off by it since I could'nt use my 16-35mkII. I have however done some more thinking, and I can't really justify spending that much more money on something thats still a hobby, and have to be replaced when I get a new house. So back to the idea of Ikelite.

     

    Since I have the 100 2.8 USM macro and the 35 1.4, I was thinking to get some kind of fish-eye, and then have both the wide end of the 16-35 and the long end. Too bad you can't change lenses under water...

     

    The stuff I put together on B&H (way cheaper, even with freight and import tax and whatnot, then buying it in Sweden) is this:

     

    Ikelite 6871.02 eTTL Housing f/ Canon 5D mark II $1,519.95

    Ikelite Flat Port for SLR Housing for 4.1 to 5.125" (10.4 to 13cm) Lens #5505.45 $141.95

    Ikelite Dome Port for SLR Housing for 3 to 4" (7.6 to 10.1cm) Lens #5503.50 $189.95

    Ikelite 3944.52 Substrobe DS-51 Package $616.95

    Ikelite 4044.1 Substrobe DS-51 Head Only for Digital Still Cameras $379.95

    Ikelite SA-100 Deluxe 1" Diameter Ball Socket Arm System with 6" Double Ball #4086.61 $151.95

     

    I've gone the route to 2xDS-51 flashes instead of the DS-160. The kit contains a Y-splitter for TTL. I'm not 100% sure about this, but two pairs seems to be recommended. Unsure if they will provide enough juice for a 15mm UW fishey though. I've also gone with Ikelite´s arms, mainly because I don't really know what else to get/what fits/what you can get a BH.

     

    I have though about filming with the 5d, but I guess you need video lights to do that, and you can't really use a video light for shooting stills, can you? And there is this lingering fear that if a UW strobe is expensive, a video light would be even more so ...

     

    Since I'm a cocktail diver, it will be used in warm clear water, I'm guessing a lot of times in Thailand on liveaboards or 2-dives a day trips with fairly large ships. Packing/size/weight will be of consideration.

     

    Any feedback will be appreciated!

     

    /Björn

    Edited by proveg
  3. Hello,

     

    I see that you're in Sweden - so there may not be a lot of local dealer support. However, I HIGHLY recommend you talk to an underwater photography equipment dealer/expert before you order your setup. Just blindly ordering from B&H and hoping you got the right port extension lengths, sync cords, diopters, etc is a recipe for frustration. Getting the correct ports is the difference between a great photo and a blurry photo :-)

     

    I suggest contacting some of our sponsors and seeing if they will also ship to Sweden.

     

    Cheers

    James

  4. Hi

     

    I recently bought my Ikelite 5DMII housing in Sweden. The price I paid was not to far from the price you quote from B&H, if you calculate in postage and import tax. I would go for the modular system for ports rather than the lense specific ones. Thus you can use the same dome for a variety of lenses by just changing the port extension piece, and with several extension pieces you can acommodate different macro set ups (include an extender or a diopter for example). I also find the modular system very well made.

     

    I started outwith the Ikelite arms. They are pretty good value, and for the DS51 they probably will be OK. I use two DS 125s and have changed my arms to ULCS boyancy arms and clamps, which at least for me work significantly better.

     

    PM me if you are interested in getting the number to my dealer.

     

    Bent C

  5. If the price differential isn't too great, I try to buy locally because I can get the stuff serviced locally and have someone to deal with your issues and usage. At best, you always have someone to scream at in person. :) Not so easy on email or phone... nor as fun and gratifying :)

  6. If the price differential isn't too great, I try to buy locally because I can get the stuff serviced locally and have someone to deal with your issues and usage. At best, you always have someone to scream at in person. :) Not so easy on email or phone... nor as fun and gratifying :)

     

    I agree about that, and I will check out the store recommended by Bent. However, the dollar has dropped quite a bit lately (10-15%), and if there was a 15% price difference before, that might be up to 30% now. But I'm only speculating here =).

     

    Beside not shopping at B&H, does anyone else have anything to say regarding the stuff I planed to get?

     

    /Björn

  7. Just placed an order with Richard Perry at Reef Photo & Video, he took his time and was willing to work with me.

    I even got the port body for the 15mm FE which I was planing to use with the teleconverter in the 5510.16 port body I already purchased before.

    Items purchased

    Ikelite 5DII housing

    Ikelite superwide port body 5510.10

    Ikelite 8" dome 5510.45

    ULCS accessories that I was missing in my strobe kit.

     

    Update: from order time to an email with tracking number 1hour and 10 min, thats amazing, expected to arrive on Wednesday.

     

    I am likely to finalize my order this week with one of the official vendors on this forum.

    I can also say that given the situation, if you reason with someone, they may make it worth while getting the housing from them rather then from BH who is my usual choice for photo needs.

    If you like, send me PM, and I will let you know who I am likely to place an order with.

    Coming back to choices of ports and lenses, I think going for an 8" dome when doing WA is the best option, I have yet to find out why 16-35II doesnt work with Ikelite, but I actually have a backup choice of tamron 17-35 F2.8-4 which is a very good copy and sharper then 17-40 canon with the added benefit of 2.8 on a wide end, so it might be a cheap solution to just buy 17-35 tamron and have it as a backup/underwater lens.

    going with the fisheye, I also think is a good idea although I think you will need to ether have a different port or port body when using the dome. I may go with an alternative of using tamron or kenko teleconverter to extend the lens a bit closer to the dome.

    I already bought single used DS-125, but I think going with the ULCS boyancy arms / 1" ball system is a better choice then going with ikelite arm system and not much different in price.

    Once I see the effect with single strobe, I may decide to get the second one which will likely be needed.

    Ether way, I again suggest to talk to people that have tried just about all systems and options out there, just as James have suggested.

     

     

    Oh, PS. for now I have been recomended that diopter is not needed, so for now I will go without it.

    Edited by proveg
  8. That's great news! There is nothing like getting personalized service from someone who knows what they're talking about. I'm surprised Richard didn't get you to buy an Olympus by the time you'd hung up with him. Just kidding - have to give R a bit of a hard time :-)

     

    Cheers

    James

  9. Beside not shopping at B&H, does anyone else have anything to say regarding the stuff I planed to get?

     

    /Björn

     

    I think you're going to want more juice than what two DS-51s can offer.

  10. I actually have a backup choice of tamron 17-35 F2.8-4 which is a very good copy and sharper then 17-40 canon with the added benefit of 2.8 on a wide end,

     

    Hi Gene,

    I'm curious why you say that the Tamron is sharper than the Canon. I've been researching both for a new purchase and don't have personal experience with either one but from what I've read that surprised me. I believe the Tamron racks in and out when zooming which can be a problem inside a dome. I've read that the Tamron AF is pretty slow in low light. It's less expensive than the L which is a good thing but in my limited research on the web I haven't run across that it's sharper.

    I liked your wedding shots on your website by the way, some very nice images.

     

    Cheers,

    Steve

  11. Steve, thanks for the compliments. I havent actually updated the site with recent stuff in almost a year, havent had much time.

    As far as Tamron, this particular one is very sharp and I have gone through 2 before settling on the copy I have. I got it over 4 years ago when I wasnt ready to buy the L glass, although Tammy cost about $450 back then. Now in few places that have them the price is under $300 which is a steal in my opinion.

     

    Its true that on FF such as 5D it does loose out a bit to L glass, my copy is really good and compared to my friends 17-40L on a crop camera it was definately better.

    I havent used it that much on the 5D since 24mm is wide enough on most shots and on occasion I have used 14mm L, so at times Tamron stays at home.

    I am lucky enough to work 1 block away from BH so I was able to hand pick my lenses, another one I have and dont plan on selling is Tamron 28-75 f2.8. The value on Tamrons have dropped significantly, but IQ wise, these lenses rock. If we are talking about the build, they are obviously loosing out to the L glass and even Tokina.

    Regarding focus, yes I will agree with you, some will notice focus speed being a bit slower in low light, but it doesnt hunt, its just just a insignificantly slower.

    I have an impeccably sharp but impossibly slow Sigma 105macro, and that one is something I wouldnt even bother to take underwater, Tamron I think will do just fine with focus in photography. I am, although not sure how well it will perform with video especially since there is no conventional way to stop down in video mode.

     

    What I am trying to say, if you get a good copy of Tamron 17-35, for the money its a really good buy since spec and IQ wise its on par or better then 17-40 and price wise, its over a thousand $ cheaper then 16-35.

     

     

    Hi Gene,

    I'm curious why you say that the Tamron is sharper than the Canon. I've been researching both for a new purchase and don't have personal experience with either one but from what I've read that surprised me. I believe the Tamron racks in and out when zooming which can be a problem inside a dome. I've read that the Tamron AF is pretty slow in low light. It's less expensive than the L which is a good thing but in my limited research on the web I haven't run across that it's sharper.

    I liked your wedding shots on your website by the way, some very nice images.

     

    Cheers,

    Steve

    Edited by proveg
  12. if you get a good copy of Tamron 17-35, for the money its a really good buy since spec and IQ wise its on par or better then 17-40 and price wise, its over a thousand $ cheaper then 16-35.

     

    Thanks partner, That's great to know. I wouldn't have guessed.

     

    I admire your discipline and self control. If I worked a block from B&H my son probably wouldn't have gone to college and I for sure wouldn't still be married. :)

     

    Cheers,

    Steve

    Edited by Steve Williams
  13. I admire your discipline and self control. If I worked a block from B&H my son probably wouldn't have gone to college and I for sure wouldn't still be married. :)

     

     

    Steve,

    Thanks, there is some self control, but I decided instead of fighting it, to take up photography as a supplemental source of income to the family and all the toys at BH. This is how I started with shooting weddings.

    Now, I see myself in more trouble as underwater photography is a significant step above topside in cost, and it doesnt stop with equipment, now I am starting to think of all those liveaboard trips which I cant afford.

    Any ideas on what to do to make income for all those amasing trips?

     

    BTW, looked at your galleries on flickr, they are just amazing.

  14. Any ideas on what to do to make income for all those amasing trips?
    Thanks for the kind words, the guys and gals here on Wetpixel are very good teachers. As to how to afford those liveaboards? Well two years ago I'd have said get a job on Wall st. But that's not working out so well and most of those folks never have time to go diving anyway. From my friends here, I'd say medical school could be an option, takes a little time though. I've tried a couple of times to get adopted by friendly tour operators and boat owners but that hasn't worked out yet. If you get your Phd in Marine Biology then somehow manage to get enough stunning images to have three beautiful books published and are a great teacher there is a chance you could lead some classes and trips. Won't make tons of money though.

     

    I think my best advice is to follow your passion and the rest just kind of works itself out. :) Everyone gets to make their own treasure map.

     

    Good luck with the new rig, can't wait to see the images,

    Steve

  15. First trip done, and I'm slightly peeved that it was so much harder then I though it would be. I'm using up way more air then going without a camera, and I find it very hard to focus right when doing macro. Also seems like its easier to film with the FE then to take pleasing images, though that might have something to do with only using one flash.

     

    I also found the rig to be quite heavy, both over water, and under aswell (even with 8" dome its negative). But, I guess all this just means practice makes perfect. I remember I thought my 70-200 2.8 felt SO heavy when I first used it...

     

    Anyway, some of the pictures are on my flickr-account, http://www.flickr.com/photos/bjorn_b/sets/72157621853022434/, this is all from Pulau Weh, diving with Lumba Lumba.

     

    /Bjorn

    Thanks for the kind words, the guys and gals here on Wetpixel are very good teachers. As to how to afford those liveaboards? Well two years ago I'd have said get a job on Wall st. But that's not working out so well and most of those folks never have time to go diving anyway. From my friends here, I'd say medical school could be an option, takes a little time though. I've tried a couple of times to get adopted by friendly tour operators and boat owners but that hasn't worked out yet. If you get your Phd in Marine Biology then somehow manage to get enough stunning images to have three beautiful books published and are a great teacher there is a chance you could lead some classes and trips. Won't make tons of money though.

     

    I think my best advice is to follow your passion and the rest just kind of works itself out. :drink: Everyone gets to make their own treasure map.

     

    Good luck with the new rig, can't wait to see the images,

    Steve

  16. That's great Bjorn, the first trip is the hardest. If you were like me there was just too much to think about to really relax. Did you end up getting the Ikelite rig? Which macro lens were you using. A focus light really helps if you are trying to use the AF. Thanks for showing us how you did. Fun stuff.

     

    Steve

  17. Yes, I got the Ikelite, with one DS160.

     

    The lenses I used were the Canon 100mm 2.8 USM, and the Sigma 15mm FE with the 8" dome. I also brought the 35 1.4 to use with a flat port, but never got around to use it.

     

    The best dive I did was at the house reef, a lovely 85min dive with 25m+ visibility. Still a lot to think about, esp moving from manual with flash for still to AV and right WB when shooting film.

     

    /Björn

  18. 2 DS51 strobes are perfect for macro. However, they do not have a wide enough angle of coverage nor do they have enough power for wide angle shots. You should get a 160 or 2 of them for your wide angle, or you could try available light wide angle shots

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.