Ultralight or TLC Arms?

I'm trying to decide what strobe arms to buy for twin strobes (leaning YS-110a) on an Aquatica for a D700.

I've read the pinned thread on arm length, and I've looked at a few other posts, but I wonder if you have any recommendations.

The TLCs are the more affordable of the two, inch-for-inch. The TLC 4+8+8 package looks a little long from some of the posts I've read, but I don't have to use the whole thing with every dive I guess--dropping an 8 might be an option until I need it/get used to it.

The Ultralights are a bit more expensive, but several posters have expressed the preference for the o-ring arrangement that keeps the arms in place a little better. I recall trying a TLC set once, and the arms were all over the place. They may have been twin 11s though, and I may not have had the joints tight enough. If I did ULCS, I'd probably go with a 5+8 arrangement to start. If I think I need more, I can add more later. (That would actually keep the package price down around the same as the 4+8+8 TLC).

Anybody have some advice for a newbie moving from 9 years of Nikonos (and a fixed SB-105 strobe) to digital?

I've been very satisfied with ULCS arms over the past several years. As mentioned, the o-ring is beneficial in keeping everything in position. A 5" & 8" for each strobe should work fine for most setups. Since you're upgrading from Nikonos to full DSLR, the cost difference in arms will be the least of your worries. Order some spare o-rings for ULCS's. They last a long time (1-2 yrs), but will eventually need replacing. Aren't you glad you have a Platinum Card

I've been very satisfied with ULCS arms over the past several years. As mentioned, the o-ring is beneficial in keeping everything in position. A 5" & 8" for each strobe should work fine for most setups. Since you're upgrading from Nikonos to full DSLR, the cost difference in arms will be the least of your worries. Order some spare o-rings for ULCS's. They last a long time (1-2 yrs), but will eventually need replacing. Aren't you glad you have a Platinum Card

Jim:

Thanks. I've been pestering these boards for months now, but I've getting close to pulling the trigger. I've got a Cayman trip coming up in late July, so I'd like to be ready by then. I appreciate your input.

Great stuff on your website, by the way.

Rich

Are you referring to the 8" ball to ball and a 5" ball to strobe?? Would this set up be ok for both macro and FE. I'm shooting a Tokina 10-17FE and a 60mm macro. I'm seriously considering Aquatica D90 housing. Shoul I get the buoyancy arms?? I moving up from a point and shoot. This is my first DSLR.

THanks

kirk

Buoyancy depends on housing & strobe combination. My Nexus D300 + S&S strobes are slightly negative. Other housing/strobe combinations seem to be more negative (mostly housing). I usually attach 8" to housing & 5" to strobe, but have also used it the other way. May not make that much difference. In my case the 5" + strobe adapter is about 8". Not sure about buoyancy of Aquatica housing with your 2 ports. Keep in mind that the more hardware you add to the system the greater the drag, & harder it becomes to handle in current. For macro I tend to use just 1 arm, but 2 for WA. Depends on your lighting technique. I just got the 10-17, so haven't been able to play with strobe & arms for it yet.

The rig I am considering in the TLC world is the 17511 4x8x8 with the appropriate Sea and Sea ball.

http://www.aquatica.ca/subpages/tlc/tlc_chart.pdf

The ULCS system consists of the 5" mounting arm and the 8" arm extension, with appropriate Sea and Sea ball.

http://www.ulcs.com/

I'll be shooting wide with the Nikon 17-35; macro with the 105 VR.

I don't presently care as much about buoyancy as others seem to--maybe I will at some point--but I do not dive in strong current. My Nikonos is negatively buoyant, and it's never been an issue.

Never tries TLC but I have both Ikelite, ULCS and 4th Generation.

Ike's arms and clamps are the least good.

The service at ULCS is nothing but outstanding!

4th Generation have good arms and clamps has the best floats system, but they also have floats are for ULCS arms.

/Peter Segerdahl

Never tries TLC but I have both Ikelite, ULCS and 4th Generation.

 

Ike's arms and clamps are the least good.

The service at ULCS is nothing but outstanding!

4th Generation have good arms and clamps has the best floats system, but they also have floats are for ULCS arms.

 

 

/Peter Segerdahl

I finally decided to go with ULCS arms, and they arrived last week. I also decided to go with buoyancy arms. Out of water, at least, the connections look good and solid. I'm really looking forward to getting it wet.

It doesn't look like a photographic advertisement, but I use a mix of TLC and Ultralight components: I like the bouyant Ultralight arm segments, but the TLC stuff works fine. I don't see a big benefit from 0-rings (my Inon strobe mounts have o-rings, too). It all fits together without a problem.

Tim

I bought my arms sets on USA ebay, quite good price.

There is a shop called "bubble scuba".

Hope that can help you.