Sardine Run - lens selection

Hi Everyone,

After 18 months of waiting, I'm getting very excited for my upcoming Sardine Run adventure! I've spent the last couple days reviewing the galleries and videos from last year's run which has got me more pumped. But I am in a quandary lens-wise. I have the Tokina 10-17, but looking at last year's pics here, it seems that several folks (Drew, Alex S.) got great results with their 12-24's. I have the Sigma 17-70 ready for u/w, which would pick up where the Tokina leaves off, but the last couple times I've used it I haven't been real happy with it. I think I'd like to try some w/a without the fish eye distortion and I've been itching to get a rectilinear wide angle for some time, so this trip provides the perfect excuse

With that said, does any one have any recommendations? I'm a Canon guy so Canon 10-22 vs. Tokina 12-24? Sigma 12-24? Go a little longer with the Canon 16-35 (although very pricey)? Save my money and stick with the 17-70? Any thoughts, tips, etc. (including settings!) greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Phil

Hey Phil,

Give a look at the Canon 17-40L, I've been working the same issue trying to get ready for the Backscatter dolphin trip. It's an f/4 lens as opposed to the 16-35's f/2.8, but it's half the money. It's a great walking around lens for the 40D when your not underwater. From everything I've read it's arguably the most cost effective L glass Canon makes. I just got mine from the big brown truck yesterday and I had it in the pool today for the first time. I am happily impressed with what I'm seeing at first blush. I haven't done any formal test pattern with it yet but it's looking good so far. I tried it today as Sea& Sea recommends with no extention ring and my big NX dome, no diopter. It focuses down to 11 inches and the AF is impressive. I'll be looking looking forward to what the more experienced folks recommend. I was planning on pumping the folks at the Long Beach show this weekend for more info on the question. When do you leave for SA?

Cheers,

Steve

For my shots, I used a FF and 1.3 crop, which is different from a APS-C like Alex's. Conditions vary but the typical viz will force you to go wider and also shoot at higher ISO to keep the shutter speed up. A faster lens helps with AF.

You're not likely to get into too many shark baitballs if you've got a boatful of people. I personally prefer 20-30mm (FF) shots but I think that's my cinematic background driving that.

However, a zoom gives you the ability to go wide when something like a Bryde's whale hits. If you look at the Bryde's whale shots from Andrej, that was a FF FE he got the back of the Bryde's with.

An equivalent to 16-35 FF is probably a great way lens with flexibility, depending on the length and luck of your trip, I'd experiment with a fisheye too. Most of my shots are natural light whereas Alex's were tinged with strobes.

One more thing with FE is that you can always defish and get the rectilinear look in post and you lose about the same coverage too.

That said, I wished I had my 24L or 17 prime for my 1.3x camera.

Also note that Alex had corner issues with the 12-24 since he didn't use a diopter. Strobes also create backscatter issues when there are too many birds diving etc.

Hi guys,

Thanks for your suggestions! Yes Steve, the 16-35 is very pricey which is a point in favor of the 17-40L. And Drew, your comments are pretty much what I picked up from looking through all the threads from last year's run. I'll definitely bring the fish eye and may use it to start since I'm comfortable with it. After that, I think the front runner is the Tokina 12-24 because 1) good focal length on crop sensor 2) price 3) the chart on the Subal site says I don't need a diopter with my FE2 dome port. Still thinking of that Canon 10-22 though...

As for strobes, I can completely see where shiny baitfish (whether actual sardines or not), scales in the water, etc. will prove a challenge. I'm thinking 1/8, 1/4 power max on the strobes, if at all?

Thanks again for your tips!

Phil

I think the most important thing for the better shots is to maintain shutter speed over 1/160 and above. The action is difficult to freeze especially as you get closer in.

How much power you use depends on your strobes, the depth and conditions. I'd shoot shutter priority and eTTL(OMG!) and control light with your EC. Unlike reef shots and other life, you don't have much time to mess with strobe settings etc.

Good luck, and I hope that the fish turn up in the same bit of the sea as your camera!

Do not read Tom Peschak's account of how long he waited to get sardine run pictures!

Tim

Hi Everyone,

 

After 18 months of waiting, I'm getting very excited for my upcoming Sardine Run adventure! I've spent the last couple days reviewing the galleries and videos from last year's run which has got me more pumped. But I am in a quandary lens-wise. I have the Tokina 10-17, but looking at last year's pics here, it seems that several folks (Drew, Alex S.) got great results with their 12-24's. I have the Sigma 17-70 ready for u/w, which would pick up where the Tokina leaves off, but the last couple times I've used it I haven't been real happy with it. I think I'd like to try some w/a without the fish eye distortion and I've been itching to get a rectilinear wide angle for some time, so this trip provides the perfect excuse

 

With that said, does any one have any recommendations? I'm a Canon guy so Canon 10-22 vs. Tokina 12-24? Sigma 12-24? Go a little longer with the Canon 16-35 (although very pricey)? Save my money and stick with the 17-70? Any thoughts, tips, etc. (including settings!) greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks!

 

Phil

When do you arrive in SA?What charters are you using for the run?

Thanks again. I was thinking that this would be the right place to shoot shutter priority, so thanks for that confirmation, Drew. I noticed that you ended up in the f5-f6 range on your aperture and after viewing the awesome Earth-Touch video (http://www.earth-touch.com/result.php?i=Dolphins-feast-on-sardines for those who missed it) I can see why - it's pretty dark down there! And your comment about the strobes is well taken - if we're lucky enough to get into some good action, it's not like the baitfish, dolphins, gannets (and hopefully sharks) are going to stop and put on a show while we float happily snapping away. Well, we can hope for that! I know a lot of this is luck and condition dependent, so thanks for the guidance.

Phil

(Travy, sent you a pm)

Opps I should add that on my cameras I can limit f stops (min and max). This way when I shoot shutter priority, I know it won't drop below f4 or whatever. I could use the FE (2.8) and it would force Tv mode to stay above f4. This is especially important if you use a f1.4 or 2.8 lens.