Fog problems

Hi there.

When diving with my camera my lens glass often gets foggy. I think it has to do when taking the camera from warm weather into the somewhat colder water. I 've tried anti fog for my mask, but not with a succesfull result. Does anybody have the same problem and perhaps a solution ? Thanks in advance.

Best Regards

Soeren Jensen

AquaShots.dk

Run a search on this forum, this subject was discussed more then once.

Sample Here

Hey,

I have the WD-300 with a S50 camera and the defog liquid works good for me.

I use qtips or just a plain match with some cotton ball on its top and coat the whole interior of the housing (of cours, in front of the camera's lens).

I do see the interference when I look at the front of the camera but I have never seen those on my pictures.

Vlad

Hi there.

When diving with my camera my lens glass often gets foggy. I think it has to do when taking the camera from warm weather into the somewhat colder water. I 've tried anti fog for my mask, but not with a succesfull result. Does anybody have the same problem and perhaps a solution ? Thanks in advance.

 

Best Regards

Soeren Jensen

AquaShots.dk

That's one of the major problems with digital cameras underwater. They run very hot, hot on inside cool on outside means only one thing... condensation. The problem seems far worse on the ultra small compact housings as being sold by Sony & Cannon. Their lack of air space inside means the housing gets much hotter. On a recent trip to Sipadan with 20 divers, half of whom used digital cameras, every one with a Sony or Cannon housing had a fogging problem. It's a major problem. Not just for the incovienience of not being able to use your housing but the damage thay will eventually be caused to the camera.

Suggest trying Silica Gel packs inside the housing, that may make a difference but the real problem is that the housing manufacturers did not think the problem through carefully.

Hi!

That's why manufacturer of "real" housings still sell some for small digicams too. Using the flash frequently and the power consumption of the display add to the effect.

Professional housings usually have a special coating on the inside to soak up condensating water in such a case (looks like a velvet coating). That's why they stay clear and functional. I don't know what Ike does to his housings but it seems as if enough free space does the trick too.

The plastic boxes were mainly designed to protect the camera from splashes, for snorkelling etc. Nobody thought of the things most divers do to these housings in the first place, I'm sure . It also depends on the difference in temperature.

It gets worse when diving in cold water. A friend of mine fixed the problem by storing the camera in a room with running air condition prior to a dive. The camera ist colder and the air inside the housing isn't that humid then.

I didn't have any problems with my housing so far (except that I've got to carry 15kg on surface ). If you like to stick to your camera but want to expand a bit (use an external flash, etc.) you'll have to switch to a professional housing anyway. It's not that more expensive or clumsy, just a bit more features and fun.

Helge ;-)=)