Night time macro

Just got my SLR set up ready to go underwater.

What should I be doing to get good macro shots on a night dive.

SLR

TTL is possible

What shutter speed? App? Any other tips you would suggest

Thanks

Hi Matt,

So I'm guessing this will be using your 450D in your Ike housing. Which strobe/s will you be using? A focus light of some type is needed so the AF can do it's job. Your camera settings are going to be driven by your strobe power and the subject distance from the strobe. Best idea is to practise the typical shot during the day so you can become familar with what works for you. Just go down and find yourself a nice ugly rock with some sand around it and find out what works for your rig. Try starting about f/16 at 1/200 with 1/2 or 3/4 power (just guessing here) on the strobe and adjust from there. The biggest problem some folks have at night is remembering where all the switches and dials are in the dark. Especially on a new rig. You should give yourself some practice time in the pool at night . I've seen some folks wear a small flashlight on their mask strap. Main thing is to slow down and be vary careful of the reef since it's tougher to know what's around you. Lots of night shooters learned the hard way with urchin scars in there knees or worse broken coral. Have fun and good luck!

Steve

Steve,

Thanks mate, good advise about learning all the controls. I was taking that for granted. Ok i will start around there and do some bracketing. I am very excited about moving from F8 on the compact to F36 if i need to. I will get a chance to do some day dives tomorrow and get some practice in.

Matt

Steve,

Thanks mate, good advise about learning all the controls. I was taking that for granted. Ok i will start around there and do some bracketing. I am very excited about moving from F8 on the compact to F36 if i need to. I will get a chance to do some day dives tomorrow and get some practice in.

Be sure to let us know how it goes for you with the new rig. I find some of the very best opportunities are at night. All the critters that you didn't see on the same dive during the day come out for you at night.

One of the biggest changes, apart from the camera/housing, is realizing that you can't take both wide angle and macro shots on the same dive. Your choice of lens (macro or wide angle) needs to be made before the dive even starts.

Ellen

One of the biggest changes, apart from the camera/housing, is realizing that you can't take both wide angle and macro shots on the same dive. Your choice of lens (macro or wide angle) needs to be made before the dive even starts.

I learned that lesson the hard way a few years ago. Seemed as though every time I had my macro lens a whale shark swam by, then when I put on the wide angle for the next dive, I ran into a mouth brooding jawfish! I pretty much plan that if I use my macro rig I'll see something huge!

I used a Fantasea 360 light on my rig for night diving recently. The 360 has a YS mount so I set it up as part of the rig and located over the camera. It is plenty bright to be the sole light for diving and it turns off when the flash is sensed.

It was quite nice to have only one thing to hold.

I use a Fisheye LED 48 or HG20DX as my spotting and dive light on night dives. It is mounted on my housing and the advantage is that its light intensity is variable thus allowing me to dim or brighten it. Also I have an attachable red lens that further allows me to make the light red. By dimming and changing the light to red is less bothersome to the subject allowing me to approach more closely. A bright light often scares subjects away.

Elmer