How to shoot with the ViDSLR cameras

Since only the Panasonic GH1 and Canon 5DMarkII have full manual exposure control, I thought it's time to start a new thread on how to shoot with these cameras underwater, since the old rules don't apply anymore.

With these new controls over the image, there is more flexibility in the look of the shot we want. First off, there's picture styles to control the general look of the picture.

First the editable on camera settings:

In Picture Style editor, one can control a bit of the curves, contrast and color tone to maximize dynamic range. Once you modify a picture style you like, save it onto your memory card and use it for video.

What settings? With picture styles, there are 2 camps: Big post and minimal post. With big post, getting a very flat picture with maximum dynamic range allows the best leeway to work in post. Of course it's a lot more computer work, which is why there's camp 2: getting the picture as close as possible without too much work.

Now what settings can help both camps? Let's examine that:

White Balance is more problematic. There is manual white balance but it entails taking a still shot of a white object which fills the spot meter. Then you set WB and save it and use it as a setting.

What settings to use? There are a few camps depending on who you ask. The MWB for every shot camp, which doesn't really apply with the ViDSLR because it's not a one button press action. The use a filter and stay with daylight WB camp, which works for shallower depths and also for the do it all in post camp (read on).

With AWB and filter, that works pretty well too except the 5D2 is limited to 7000k so it's a shallow water thing too. Another issue with AWB is the changes that happens when there are scene changes so there may be no consistency which makes color correction in post much more difficult.

Then there's the do it all in post camp, who shoot either in daylight WB or at a preset 7-10k custom WB (filtered and non-filtered) and color correct in post.

It all depends on the look you want and how hard you want to work for it.

Exposure is pretty straight forward. But ISO can be set to AUTO and have a range of 100-6400. So should ISO be left in manual, since DOF is not the same with a 35mm sensor as it is on 2/3" sensors? My personal take is keep shutter at 1/60 -and adjust aperture and ISO to suit the conditions. If it's that dark that noise become unbearable, you'd probably drop aperture anyhow.

This is just a cursory suggestion and hopefully this will build on discussions on how to maximize use of ViDSLR underwater.

White Balance is more problematic. There is manual white balance but it entails taking a still shot of a white object which fills the spot meter. Then you set WB and save it and use it as a setting.

What settings to use? There are a few camps depending on who you ask. The MWB for every shot camp, which doesn't really apply with the ViDSLR because it's not a one button press action. The use a filter and stay with daylight WB camp, which works for shallower depths. With AWB and filter, that works pretty well too except the 5D2 is limited to 7000k so it's a shallow water thing too. Then there's the do it all in post camp.

Nice post as usual

About WB. Anyone knows until wich depth these cameras are capable so set the WB?

Bye

Good idea for a topic.

I've so far only used the camera on one relatively brief trip, but I'll add in my experience. The video has already been posted here, so I won't embed it again, but here's the link in case anyone missed it:

http://www.vimeo.com/3386893

I used a flat picture style, with contrast and saturation dialled down a few notches, then brought them up a bit in post. However, I did this before the updated QT player, when there was still an issue with crushed blacks. Next time I might play around a bit more with the styles and try to get it looking good in camera.

WB: I tried to shoot a still for every time I changed depth. As I was freediving most of the time, this was a bit of a hassle. Not too bad when on scuba, though. You can see in a couple of the shots in the video that the WB is a bit on the warm side, where I was shooting shallower than the depth I'd WB'd for. Since I posted the video I've corrected the WB on these in Vegas without any difficulty.

As for exposure with the new firmware, I'm with Drew on general approach. 1/60th will be my default for shutter speed. I think if I have time to set up a shot my preferred approach would be to go fully manual and set up ISO and aperture manually. If it's a very dynamic situation with big changes in lighting (e.g. a baitball situation) I might be tempted to try Auto ISO, but as far as I can see you can't exposure-lock when you have auto-iso on, which is a pain.

Focus is another one to consider- On my previous trip, with the old firmware I taped the lens contacts to lock a selected aperture and for this reason had to use manual focus only. As my Ikelite housing can only be set up for either zoom or focus ring, I couldn't really use a zoom lens effectively. With the new firmware, I can select an aperture and maintain AF ability, so I can now use a zoom (my 17-40 springs to mind). So for each shot I would now compose and prefocus with the AF-ON button (Quick AF mode seems to be best here). The live-view zoom can be helpful for focus-checking. So the new firmware is going to make a real difference for my UW shooting.

Long John Silver- I havn't yet tested the WB at depth, but it will be the same as it is for stills for that camera (and probably similar to the old 5D), so maybe someone on the stills forum will know.

Anyway, it's lots of fun and can't wait to get out there an play some more. Looking forward to hearing what others have been up to with this camera.

The rating for WB is 2000-10000°k so it's comparable to most camcorders. No miracles I'm afraid.