How Big is Yours?

I'm considering going digital SLR (toss up between D100 and EOS10D - probably go Nikon cause their film cameras handle low light better, so if I go film later on... yeah now I'm just rambling)... anyways, my question for you all, in maximum resolution, how big can you get your prints before they start to look dodgy? As in a printed copy? The reason I ask, is that one day if I ever get some decent shots, I was thinking about maybe framing them and selling them as a hobby, and I dont want to be cutting myself short on print size.

Many thanks in advance,

Brad

This one is purely subjective.

I'd say with 6 megapixels you can do 16" x 20" max. With 11-12 megapixels you can do 20 x 30.

Cheers

James

16 x 20 is good - would you notice much distortion at this size or would it look the same as x 4 (say to the average viewer)

16 x 20 is good - would you notice much distortion at this size or would it look the same as  x 4 (say to the average viewer)

To an average viewer you can push most of the 6MP digital images to 48" x whatever before you notice any significant detoriation. And if you are willing to use the tools (Photoshop, Genuine fractals, etc) you can get some images up to some very large sizes.

If the image is good from the beginning you can really get some big sizes without too much issue.

M

This seems a good place then to ask for more detailed tips for enlarging images. Software, tools, ready made actions etc? Resolution, interpolation? Printing media? Etc.

Just for example with the UW Photo competition season nearly upon us: say I want to print an 6MP image at a standard competition print size of 30 by 40cm. What do wetpixelites reccommend?

Al

I've enlarged my 10D images to 30" wide.

http://www.scan-conversions.com/lucy.jpg

I'm anxiously saving my pennies for the new Subal C10 housing. You may also want to rethink the low light issue with the Canon's, simply put the 10D has great low light focus ability and the noise level of the CMOS chip is simply non-existent.

Stu

This seems a good place then to ask for more detailed tips for enlarging images. Software, tools, ready made actions etc? Resolution, interpolation? Printing media? Etc.

 

Just for example with the UW Photo competition season nearly upon us: say I want to print an 6MP image at a standard competition print size of 30 by 40cm. What do wetpixelites reccommend?

 

Al

30cm by 40cms is not that big a print (about 12x16 for those metrically challenged) for a 6MP image. You shouldn't have to resort to anything like Genuine Fractals for this size, but here are some of the things I like to do:

- Always convert the image to least the max DPI of the printer being used

- Always remember that most prints come out darker than the monitor

- Get a pro lab if possible to do the printing When you do take along a color matching print out. Talk to the person doing the printing and tell them specifically what color you are looking for in certain areas that match your print.

- If you want to do the printing your self then the Epson 2000p and 2200 are IMHO without peer. Of course they are expensive as well. I also love the paper I get from Pictorico (http://www.pictorico.com/) - their white glossy can be spectacular with the right image and the canvas effect is stunning with B&W images.

- Don't be afraid to get it reprinted if you are not happy.

That is a good start anyway - I'll think of more later on...

M

One can't answer that question without knowing the method of printing and viewing distance.

A good Lightjet print can be done at 150dpi. That's easily a 13"x19". Ask the lab what kind of printer they use and what methodology works best. Some RIP programs can upsize better than Genuine Fractals according to some people.

Righto, stupid question, but what are these genuine fractal things? Is that like a plug in for photoshop? If so, can anyone recomend a good web based tutorial for them? Thanks again

PS Great shot with the 10D!

Have you considered the Fuji S2? Arguably the best 6mp image at present and the ONLY DSLR that shoots true TTL. That means any strobes you currently own will work in TTL. Aquatica and Ike have housings available. As you can tell, I'm a proud new owner of the S2. I haven't housed mine yet but am greatly anticipating doing so. Its an incredible camera. My only complaint is its polycarbonate body. Fuji cheaped out by not using magnesium but the image from this camera soon makes you forget all that. Can be had for around $1700 as of this writing.

20"x30" prints from properly corrected RAW files will make you weep! In joy that is.....virtually no noise, rich Fuji color, clear and decidedly dimensional looking images. Ever wince at some of the DSLR images that look 'flat'? Won't find that with a S2. I looked at prints from the D100 (I'm a Nikon guy for over 30 years with lots of Nikkor glass) and to me they couldn't hold a candle to prints made from the S2.

Forget the EOS10D for now. Too many focusing issues.

(I'm a Nikon guy for over 30 years with lots of Nikkor glass

snip

Forget the EOS10D for now. Too many focusing issues.

Not to be a PIA, but this doesn't exactly strike me as objective.