I'm new to dSLR. I have I Nixon D90 with the Aquatica housing. I'll be shooting with the Tokina 10-17 FE with an 8" dome. I'll have 2 stobes, one the Sea and Sea YS-100 and the other one the newer YS-100a version.
Do I need a Buyancy arm with the set up? I plan on getting 2 - 8" arm segments. If I need one, should I shoot for the large or regular buoyancy arms. I'm going with the 8" length because I have seen that commonly recommended along with getting 5" arms on the strobe end.
I plan to add a 60mm Macro lense in the future, which I'm sure will change what I do with the arms.
I appreciate any advice.
Kirk
Would suggest 2 - 8" arms + 2 - 5" arms with the 10-17, at least that's what I'm using. New to the lens thou so that could change later. As far as buoyancy goes, try the setup & see how it feels. The big dome will probably float nose up. The strobes are just slightly negative in the water, so wt/buoy mostly coming from housing. Depends in part on how strong your wrists are. If you feel you need buoyancy, arms probably won't put it the right place. It would need to be near rear of housing to offset the dome. Different setup for 60mm shouldn't be a problem. Ideally you want to be able to shoot one handed. I prefer to have my rig slightly negative so I can set it on the bottom if necessary.
I'm new to dSLR. I have I Nixon D90 with the Aquatica housing. I'll be shooting with the Tokina 10-17 FE with an 8" dome. I'll have 2 stobes, one the Sea and Sea YS-100 and the other one the newer YS-100a version.
Do I need a Buyancy arm with the set up? I plan on getting 2 - 8" arm segments. If I need one, should I shoot for the large or regular buoyancy arms. I'm going with the 8" length because I have seen that commonly recommended along with getting 5" arms on the strobe end.
I plan to add a 60mm Macro lense in the future, which I'm sure will change what I do with the arms.
I appreciate any advice.
Kirk
I have used a 30D Aquatica housing (still gotta get the 40D wet ) 8" dome, and used it with Dual DS-125s, both (camera and stobes) heaiver than your rig Never had a problem with balance/bouyancy, though I did add some floats to my ULCS (the foam slip on ones) last trip just to try them. If someone was going to point a gun at my head and say which was better, I would probably not be able to choose. That being said I did pick up some ULCS float arms to try the next trip, just to cut down things to carry. Overall though with the Aquatica I never really had issues with trying to get it in place, other factors such as diving in current etc. was usually more issues ( for pretty much any rig I had). I also like have my rig slightly negative in general, underwater positioning of the housing (still or video) is usually not an issue (for me anyway, it is the other things )
That being said having set of float arms (especially since the housing you have is tighter/less air) is probably not a bad idea just to carry. Sort of with all the other cost and expenses of UW photography it is relatively small between floats/non-floats and you can always add a bit of weight or sell the floats if they do not work.
Drew's experience mirrors mine. I use two SB105's (similar size to yours I think) on regular arms with my Aquatica 5D and have never felt there is a problem with buoyancy - I too like things just negative. The 8" dome occasionally makes my wrist ache a little as it tends to try to twist the housing onto its back but it is a very minor issue which I have got used to and now never think about.
Do you need buoyancy arms, no. But will you find them helpful, I think so.
I have found that having my rig trimmed so that it is just negative has made my underwater DSLR much more enjoyable. Trying to stay still and take a portrait view with one hand in some current with a 4 pound negative rig can be a real bummer. That said, I have tried ultralight buoyancy arms and now use Stix arms. They are lighter to carry (in your airline carry on) and the float sections are interchangeable allowing different configurations for different ports while using the same arms.
Elmer
for wide work, with a big air-filled dome port you likely don't need them, though proper trim is good. I find i do need extra bouyancy on the housing when shooting macro, where you don't have so much air in the rig.
in that case, i cut up a foam 'noodle' and slip pieces over my regular tlc & ulcs arm sections and it helps immensely. they will eventually crush after lots of use, but one noodle costs $2-3 and will supply you with about 3 sets of floats. cheers,
chris
Do you need buoyancy arms, no. But will you find them helpful, I think so.
I have found that having my rig trimmed so that it is just negative has made my underwater DSLR much more enjoyable. Trying to stay still and take a portrait view with one hand in some current with a 4 pound negative rig can be a real bummer. That said, I have tried ultralight buoyancy arms and now use Stix arms. They are lighter to carry (in your airline carry on) and the float sections are interchangeable allowing different configurations for different ports while using the same arms.
Elmer
Hi Elmer
How is the StiX system and does it work? What length of rods do you use?
I need overall about 1KG of lift to make my system just negative. I am considering getting 2 x 9" and 2 x 6" sticks with large floats.
Any comments from first hand experience very welcome. Richard
Hi Elmer
How is the StiX system and does it work? What length of rods do you use?
I need overall about 1KG of lift to make my system just negative. I am considering getting 2 x 9" and 2 x 6" sticks with large floats.
Any comments from first hand experience very welcome. Richard
Richard,
I use 4 x 9" arms with the medium floats. There are 3 different size floats that slide on and off the Stix arms. When I purchased my arms with the medium floats (SX-209) I bought extra large floats to help further trim the buoyancy. Look at the site: http://stores.4gdphoto.com/-strse-Underwater/Categories.bok
Also 4th generations makes floats to use with ultralight arms. The only drawback with the Stix arms is when carrying your system on land with heavy strobes the arms will not lock tight enough and the strobes tend to flop around some, but underwater they work just fine.
Elmer
Richard,
I use 4 x 9" arms with the medium floats. There are 3 different size floats that slide on and off the Stix arms. When I purchased my arms with the medium floats (SX-209) I bought extra large floats to help further trim the buoyancy. Look at the site: http://stores.4gdphoto.com/-strse-Underwater/Categories.bok
Also 4th generations makes floats to use with ultralight arms. The only drawback with the Stix arms is when carrying your system on land with heavy strobes the arms will not lock tight enough and the strobes tend to flop around some, but underwater they work just fine.
Elmer
Elmer,
Very useful, thanks for your reply. I purchased the 6" and 9" arms with medium floats. Arrived yesterday and I noted the problem of arms not locking with strobe attached. Good to know thiws is resolved underwater.
Only problem now is I don't know when I'll be diving next..........
) 8" dome, and used it with Dual DS-125s, both (camera and stobes) heaiver than your rig Never had a problem with balance/bouyancy, though I did add some floats to my ULCS (the foam slip on ones) last trip just to try them. If someone was going to point a gun at my head and say which was better, I would probably not be able to choose. That being said I did pick up some ULCS float arms to try the next trip, just to cut down things to carry. Overall though with the Aquatica I never really had issues with trying to get it in place, other factors such as diving in current etc. was usually more issues ( for pretty much any rig I had). I also like have my rig slightly negative in general, underwater positioning of the housing (still or video) is usually not an issue (for me anyway, it is the other things 
)
