Another z240 question

Picked up a used z240 have about 8 dives on it and trying to figure out the settings but I think it may have something wrong with it. If I put it on full that should be as bright as it can be? It clearly isn't that way. If I put it on sttl it seems to be full power. I wanted to put it on manual and then just adjust the ev for brightness. In stead I need to use auto for macro and adjust ev. Sttl-low for 5' shot and sttl for greater then 5'. Here is two pics: take with same settings on Camera just changed the strobe settings. First on is full and second is sttl.

FullSttl

Picked up a used z240 have about 8 dives on it and trying to figure out the settings but I think it may have something wrong with it. If I put it on full that should be as bright as it can be? It clearly isn't that way. If I put it on sttl it seems to be full power. I wanted to put it on manual and then just adjust the ev for brightness. In stead I need to use auto for macro and adjust ev. Sttl-low for 5' shot and sttl for greater then 5'. Here is two pics: take with same settings on Camera just changed the strobe settings. First on is full and second is sttl.

FullSttl

Which camera and which housing and what type of connection to the strobe. If it is a Nikon and there is only one pin connected in the hotshoe connection there are apparently many troubles. Cor tried this on the Wetpixel trip in Indonesia and maybe he now has some more information. A lot depends on how this was set up.

Which camera and which housing and what type of connection to the strobe. If it is a Nikon and there is only one pin connected in the hotshoe connection there are apparently many troubles. Cor tried this on the Wetpixel trip in Indonesia and maybe he now has some more information. A lot depends on how this was set up.

Canon g9/ Ikelite housing. It seems to do it with both electrical and optical. But those pics were taken with electrical. I could take two more with optical.

On FULL you are likely getting a full dump during the preflash, and therefore no flash at all during exposure. Thus a very dark exposure.

On FULL you are likely getting a full dump during the preflash, and therefore no flash at all during exposure. Thus a very dark exposure.

I don’t think so. You can clearly hear and see the difference during the actual picture taking.

Same thing happens when it’s fired optical.

So my question would be, any point in trying to get it fixed. From other post I read they seem to be far to expensive to have them repaired. I guess I should just use it until it completely dies. Then go buy a new one.

Is your ACC on or off on the strobe?

Is your ACC on or off on the strobe?

That was the problem...sweet it's fixed now...oh boy can't wait for the next dive to try this in manual. Thanks for your help guys...

Cheers.

Ron L.

SNAFU? FUBAR? RTFM!!

The complexity of the Inon Z240, let alone the Inon Z240 manual, is legendary.

If the strobe fires at full power, even sometimes, it's usually a "software" problem: look at all the steps from camera to strobe, and don't forget that (a) it's hard to work out what position the ACC control should be in, and (b) the power control dial works in opposite directions, depending on which mode the strobe is operating in!

I find sTTL pretty good for macro shots, but often gives peculiar results with wide-angle lenses, where manual settings are better. Maximum output is only achieved on manual full power, (I think...).

Tim