Shooting pics with a modeling light.

My backup camera is the Olympus SP-350 which is nice for many things but not really close/small macro. (Oddly you can get closer to a small subject, and fill the screen better, with full zoom rather than w/a, but e'en so I'm usually about 5" away from the subject.) It has a super macro setting which lets me get the proximity to the subject I want, but it disables the interior flash which I use to trigger my slave(s) via fiber optic cable.

So I thought I'd try using super macro with a modeling light mounted on the housing's cold shoe and see what I get. Has anybody tried this, and if so, how'd it work? What kind of modeling light did you use? I'm looking for one that's small (read cheap) with even light distribution to avoid hot and cold spots.

Try a wet diopter on the 46mm threads of the PT-030. Underwaterphotography.com has a macro lens with the right adapter.

Thanks, good idea, and I have actually tried an Inon lens, an old MX-10 close-up lens that I adapted to the Olympus housing, and, the best results, but with the ring intruding in the corners, an old Hydrophoto #1 diopter that went on the old Nikonos 35mm. Even so I couldn't get much more than you can see on the pic I'll try to attach, i.e. roughly what used to be called 1:2.

The camera's super macro can get closer, nearer to nominal 1:1, but I've yet to talk to anyone who's used available light with a modeling light.

- oops, can't post pic directly from my computer. I'll try later if I can figure a way to do it.

Hi Ryann,

I'm new to this forum and new to UW photography in general, but I have an Olympus Stylus 1010 compact and have encountered the same frustration as you with the internal strobe being disabled in super macro mode. Even though I don't yet own a strobe, I often dive with a small Princeton Tec LED flashlight and use this to shoot in SM mode in preference to macro mode. I don't have a mount so I struggle with the one-handed photographing technique whilst holding it, but have had pleasing results (here - sorry I can't post it directly). I guess you'd just need to make sure the mounting system you set up allowed you to angle your light acutely enough to illuminate a subject very near to the lens?

Thanks, Aquaplane. That's just the kind of answer I was looking for. Those are some excellent shots. All really done with a 1010? Is that the Princeton Tec's light beam behind the nudibranch eggs? It has alternating light and dark rings, but those don't seem to stand out on the supermacro sea star shot. Very encouraging. I really appreciate your reply!

Yes, all done with a 1010 bar a couple of non-macros where I borrowed a friend's Sealife DC80 to have a snap. I can't say I've been able to experiment with different cameras, but I do think the Olympus models are very good for macro. I see what you mean about the torch beam - I've never noticed the banding to be a problem elsewhere (e,g, 1, 2, 3) so it may just be that the beam was on a really tight angle to the kelp surface. I was reading a good overview of focus lights just last night, if that helps at all. I've found the Princeton Tec Impact XL LED to be a great little torch for day and night, but with its 4 AA batteries it might be a little big for a dedicated modelling light. The Fisheye Ultra Compact Focus Light reviewed by ReefPhoto looks to be a nice size with an even beam, although I've read a thread on wetpixel about some flooding problems. Anyway, I'd be really interested to see how you go.

Lots of good information. Thanks. Do you do a custom white balance with the Impact before using it, or is close enough?

Do you do a custom white balance with the Impact before using it, or is close enough?

My camera actually doesn't have custom white balance capabilities. Like I said, I'm very much a novice... so no, auto is close enough!