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Photography Gear and Technique / Archived topic

D300 and Lens choices

Started by WanderingBob ·

  • 9Posts
  • 9Replies

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D300 and Lens choices

9 posts
  1. I had vacillated b/t getting a FF vs DX housing and pretty much decided to go DX utilizing my D300. Currently, I own a Nikon 10.5mm fisheye and a 12-24mm lens. I have read a lot about the 12-24 being soft at the corners and am wondering about changing both these lenses for either a Tokina 10-17mm or a Sigma 10-20mm. I just don't know if I will be changing lenses during photo ops.

     

    I has been driving myself nuts researching this for a few days. I have read every thread on this furum and others thaty I could find remotely relating to my quest.

     

    It is my understanding that the Tokina is a fisheye with expected distortion and, the Sigma is rectilinear. Correct?

     

    I am sure this boils down to personal choice, if I am correct. But, does the Tokina exhibit near rectilinear attributes as it approaches 17mm?

     

    Can I have the best of both worlds be exchanging the 10.5 and the 12-24 for the Tokina 10-17mm?

    Is there a reason to chose the Tokina 10-17 over the Sigma 10-20?

     

    First trip is to Tonga to photograph humpies with a stop in Fiji for diving and photographing. So, I will be trying to minimize the number of lenses and still be able to photograph whales on the surface in Tonga and reef scenics on the bottom in Fiji.

     

    Thanks for any help in making this decision.

    PS - first new thread, hope I got it right.

  2. Hi, IMHO your setup is OK with the 10.5mm and the 12-24.

    If you are not happy with the 12-24, I would try the new 10-24 nikkor instead the second option being the sigma 10-20 for the humpbacks.

    Since you already have the 10.5mm you don't really need the Tokina (which will never replace a rectilinear lens).

  3. Hi, IMHO your setup is OK with the 10.5mm and the 12-24.

    If you are not happy with the 12-24, I would try the new 10-24 nikkor instead the second option being the sigma 10-20 for the humpbacks.

    Since you already have the 10.5mm you don't really need the Tokina (which will never replace a rectilinear lens).

     

    Thank you Marcelo,

     

    The Photo Pro that will be going said I'd be OK with my set-up. And, as this is new to me, perhaps I should give it a go.

     

    I do not see a Zoom ring for the Sigma 10-20 nor Nikon 10-20 for Aquatica Housing, which is what I may be leaning towards.

     

    Would appreciate other input offered as well.

  4. I started off with the 10,5 and 12-24 but after I bought the 10-17 I never used them, so I traded them for a 16 for my FF.

  5. I started off with the 10,5 and 12-24 but after I bought the 10-17 I never used them, so I traded them for a 16 for my FF.

     

     

    Thanks John.

     

    Would you care to elaborate as to why?

     

    Shooting style, sharpness, personal preference, other?

     

    Which FF do you shoot with?

     

    Nice website, by the way

  6. Thanks John.

     

    Would you care to elaborate as to why?

     

    Shooting style, sharpness, personal preference, other?

     

    Which FF do you shoot with?

     

    Nice website, by the way

     

     

    Have I still got a website? I haven't looked at it since I went digital. (ie not recently!)

     

    I find the 10-17 is perfect for my needs. Sharpness behind the optical glass port of the Sea & Sea is perfect from corner to corner, if focuses closely and I can quickly change from very wide to wide - so why go in with a different lens?

     

    Fixed focal length lenses need pre-dive decisions. I was recently using my D700 (FF) at Manta Point Bali and decided to use the 20 rather than the 16. What a mistake!

    Edited by John Bantin
  7. I find the 10-17 is perfect for my needs. Sharpness behind the optical glass port of the Sea & Sea is perfect from corner to corner, if focuses closely and I can quickly change from very wide to wide - so why go in with a different lens?

    Fixed focal length lenses need pre-dive decisions. I was recently using my D700 (FF) at Manta Point Bali and decided to use the 20 rather than the 16. What a mistake!

     

    Some good info.

     

    Perhaps the 10-17 fisheye and a 10-20 rectilinear would open the possibilities. Of, course, carrying an extra body or two would be ideal. Can you hire a diving sherpa in Bali?

     

     

    <<Have I still got a website? I haven't looked at it since I went digital. (ie not recently!)>>

    Took me a while to find it, be nice to see what you have been up to in the last decade.

     

    Again thanks.

  8. <<Have I still got a website? I haven't looked at it since I went digital. (ie not recently!)>>

    Took me a while to find it, be nice to see what you have been up to in the last decade.

     

    Again thanks.

    Go to www.divernet.com

     

    It's updated every month.

  9. I also have the tokina 11-16 rectilinear less distortion than the 12-24, nikons new 10-24 or the fisheyes.

    The Tokina 11-16 is tack sharp and a 2.8 lens, very fast auto focus. I use it when I don't wnat the "fisheye" effect

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