Do the provided eyepieces on ikelite, Aquatica and Nexus housings work adequately or do most people install the optional eyepieces? I see threads talking up the 45 degree units and I can picture how that would be useful. But as I look at the price of going DSLR, I would not start with one…but will it work well with the provided unit?
I have shot Aquatica without the eyepiece (though it is drool worthy), once I got used to how to angle the viewfinder (a dive or two) it is not bad, but one day a viewfinder would be nice to have. (And everyone around here who has gone for any of the viewfinders loves them so it seems.) Unsure how the default Ikes or Nexus ones work though...
I have used and liked the fiber optics on my current G9 setup. I have not used manual flash control underwater to any extent. For those that have used both, how difficult is the transition?
It really was not that bad. I had an 8080 with TTL in an Ikelite and did like TTL, but I had an opportunity to get into a dSLR. Actually had a Nikon and the camera did not work properly, so got a Canon that was on sale. Got used to non-TTL and it is not that difficult, plus with digital and all the feedback in the viewer it makes things easier. The Ikes with TTL with Ike strobes in the Ike housings and there are cords to get the Ikes TTLing in non-Ike housings (for Nikon and not Canon.) EDIT TO ADD: Not to give you the wrong impression about TTL, I am looking into TTL options because I would like to have it as just another tool to use, and not saying it is valueless.....
I currently use a G9 and know little about DSLR housings and setups. Please keep in mind that I only get to dive/photo 3 weeks a year and often those weeks are not connected. I am concerned about my learning curve if I move to DSLR housings. (I know my D90 well enough and have used an D/film/SLR’s for yrs with success above water).
There will be some learning curve, but the improved shutter lag and the other things that a dSLR brings to the table will offset (at least for me.) I would think the main things to get down is how Aperture, ISO and shutter speed changes will all affect your shot underwater (reducing f-stop for background, etc.) There are other things such as reading the screens for feedback (histograms) and all will add on. But there is the old saying along the lines that 90% of the work gets done with 10% of the effort (or something like that.....). In other words, you can quickly start getting photos that you will be happy with then take it from there...