sync cable

I'm so glad there's a DIY forum as I'd like to pick someone's brains if I may. Here goes.....

I've purchased an Ikelite housing for my digital still camera, and I have an Epoque strobe.

I need a sync cord that will connect to both housing and strobe, however Ikelite don't make a sync cord to

connect these two items. I do have a sync cord that one end will fit the Epoque, is there a way of

changing the other end of the sync cord to fit the Ikelite housing?

If all else fails I'll have to go the fibre optic route, or buy a new strobe.

Many thanks for your help.

Gertie.

I'm so glad there's a DIY forum as I'd like to pick someone's brains if I may. Here goes.....

I've purchased an Ikelite housing for my digital still camera, and I have an Epoque strobe.

I need a sync cord that will connect to both housing and strobe, however Ikelite don't make a sync cord to

connect these two items. I do have a sync cord that one end will fit the Epoque, is there a way of

changing the other end of the sync cord to fit the Ikelite housing?

 

If all else fails I'll have to go the fibre optic route, or buy a new strobe.

 

Many thanks for your help.

Gertie.

This is a decidedly non-trivial problem. I would suggest that the best approach is a new strobe. If you are really really wanting to do this you will need to do three things. Figure out which pins go to where on the Ike end, and the same on the epoque end. You could then splice the two cables together (assuming they have the same number of wires. Then you have to make the splice water proof which can be done many ways but eventually you will get a leak. A new strobe will be a lot more painfree.

Bill

Hello Bill,

Thank you for your advice. I think you're right about buying a new strobe, sometimes it doesn't pay to cut corners.

Many thanks,

Gertie

And if fiber optic is an option go with that. Not electronic, no o-rings to leak, almost zero maintenance & faster to assemble.

And if fiber optic is an option go with that. Not electronic, no o-rings to leak, almost zero maintenance & faster to assemble.

I agree if the Ike housing lets you do optical.

Bill

Let me disagree. The strobes will have the same number of wires, as the signal source ie the camera is the same. If for whatever reason one strobe runs with fewer cable, being that it doesnt cater for TTL, then it is just a matter of figuring out which is the redundant wire. You haven t mentioned which camera make you are using but there are ample web resources that detail the hot shoe wiring, for different makes and models.

As for leaking the splice. Providing it is done correctly a splice will keep water proof for a 100m plus if you are using 3M self amalgamating tape. This would be the most economically way. Also a soldering iron and self amalgamating tape it an essential part of my tool kit, with it I can seal nicks in cables or salvage cords should they fail. Kept me shooting many a time.

For a more professional finish you can use a mold and 3M scotchcast, which will produce a flexible rubber cast. Prepared and set correctly this will stay water tight to 2000m plus, probably more, though I have never tested beyond that depth.

I heartily advise you to rip stuff apart and solder them back together in a way that works for you.

If you have any questions let me know.

Erol

I am not familiar with that strobe - but just check before you start too may attachments that the trigger voltage on the strobe is compatible with the modern generation of camera - or it may get real expensive.

Paul C

Let me disagree. The strobes will have the same number of wires, as the signal source ie the camera is the same. If for whatever reason one strobe runs with fewer cable, being that it doesnt cater for TTL, then it is just a matter of figuring out which is the redundant wire. You haven t mentioned which camera make you are using but there are ample web resources that detail the hot shoe wiring, for different makes and models.

 

As for leaking the splice. Providing it is done correctly a splice will keep water proof for a 100m plus if you are using 3M self amalgamating tape. This would be the most economically way. Also a soldering iron and self amalgamating tape it an essential part of my tool kit, with it I can seal nicks in cables or salvage cords should they fail. Kept me shooting many a time.

 

For a more professional finish you can use a mold and 3M scotchcast, which will produce a flexible rubber cast. Prepared and set correctly this will stay water tight to 2000m plus, probably more, though I have never tested beyond that depth.

 

I heartily advise you to rip stuff apart and solder them back together in a way that works for you.

 

If you have any questions let me know.

 

Erol

I have never played with the amalgamating tapes from 3M. Very neat. Next time I need a custom cable I will go that route.

thanks

Bill

I'm so glad there's a DIY forum as I'd like to pick someone's brains if I may. Here goes.....

I've purchased an Ikelite housing for my digital still camera, and I have an Epoque strobe.

I need a sync cord that will connect to both housing and strobe, however Ikelite don't make a sync cord to

connect these two items. I do have a sync cord that one end will fit the Epoque, is there a way of

changing the other end of the sync cord to fit the Ikelite housing?

 

If all else fails I'll have to go the fibre optic route, or buy a new strobe.

 

Many thanks for your help.

Gertie.

Hi Gertie,

Epoque strrobes uses the standard Nikonos V bulkhead, you can actually an Ikelite sync cord to work with your housing, here's the Ikelite product code for it:

#4116.31 Digital Housing-to-One Nikonos strobe

Hope this helps.

Many thanks for all your input regarding my Epoque strobe & Ikelite housing.

I will take all suggestions on board.

Many thanks for your help,

Gertie.