Hi, all. I'm slowly learning more about my new Ikelite 30D/DS-160 rig.
Latest problem is with the arms that came with the DS-160 "kit". I'm pretty strong, and in order to keep the arms from "flopping around", I have to tighten the bolts down to the limits of my strength. Then, yesterday I was underwater, when one of the hinges suddenly got really loose. I tightened it back down underwater and continued to my dive. When I got back to the surface, I noticed that one of the plates on the hinge was BENT. So, the torque required to keep the light from flopping around exceeded the rigidity of the plate. Bad.
Are there other arms/hinges that require less tension? ULCS?
Suggestions?
Thanks,
Dan
ULCS ball has rubber around its circumference so the clamp is a little stickier and less likely to loosen to the point that your strobe starts to move around. The clamp's spring helps, too.
- Another Dan
Yes have the same issue with two DS125s, although to a lesser extent as the DS125 is lighter.
Also annoying above water when carrying the kitted up housing.
I did wonder however would putting buoyant tubing on the strobe arms (e.g. pipe insulation) alleviate the issue as underwater the strobes would be lighter ?
Have other people solved this issue this way ?
Hi,
I have moved from Ikelite arms over Reikle arms (a German make) to ULCS double float arms (I hope finally). All arms used with the Ikelite DS-125.
I like on those ULCS the added bouyancy for handling under water as well as I think that the holding power of their clamps is a little better.
Although I have to say that I have done only 5 or 6 dives with the ULCS arms until now - but my first impression is good
Bye,
Fred
ULCS.
Thanks everyone, I have ULCS 2x10" buoyancy arms on order. Pricey. Hope it solves the issues.
Regards,
Dan
Ikelite offers a 1" ball or a 1.25" ball. I find that the 1.25" ball arms offer much more holding power than the 1" ball arms.
Thanks, surfsup. A little too late -- I'll see how the ULCS arms work out. Looks like they are the gold standard.
