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Stability options for small rig (not a buoyancy question)

Started by Kotheimer ·

  • 8Posts
  • 8Replies

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Stability options for small rig (not a buoyancy question)

8 posts
  1. While looking around for solutions to stability problems (fighting shakiness), I came across lots of posts related specifically to buoyancy. It is definitely the general consensus that a slightly negative rig is better than a slightly positive one (with a few who disagree, of course). And it's relatively easy to add weight or buoyancy, so that's not an issue.

     

    My problem is that my rig (a Seatool HC3) is small in area/volume and too easy to push through the water, resulting in too much camera movement. I don't know technically if you'd say it has less MASS, but yeah I think that's the problem. I have a couple solutions in mind and have found a little advice here on Wetpixel but am always looking for more...

     

    DEPLOYABLE WING OR CHUTE

    I was thinking of building some kind of wing system for it, and I was wondering whether anyone had done this. Something that can be inflated (without adding too much buoyancy) or extended underwater like an umbrella or underwater "parachute" would be ideal. Has anyone done anything like this? Could a small sea anchor (the kind that hangs in mid-water) help somehow? How about plastic sheets that can be folded under the rig while on the boat and then fanned out once in the water?

     

    UNDERWATER "BODYPOD"

    I had also read of attaching the rig to one's BCD using either rope/line or bungee cord that you pull against to make taut when extending your arms, rig in hand. That seems like a good simple approach, and I'm thinking of trying a 3-point system. Any thoughts as to whether bungee vs. stiff cord would be a better option? Is the "give" of bungee a plus or a negative?

     

    Thanks for any and all advice!

     

    -bk

  2. Any thoughts as to whether bungee vs. stiff cord would be a better option? Is the "give" of bungee a plus or a negative?

    5-6mm marine bungie worked well for me. The length is absolutely critical so that it's just slightly taught at arm's length. To be honest though, a really nicely trimmed rig with a good deal of inertia is the way to get nice steady shots. I can't advise you on what to add on to it though, because my rigs have all been bulky enough on their own. My first thought is to add useful stuff to it, such as things that can double as tripods, extra handles, lights etc. before thinking of adding fins or wings. I would definitely not add compressible/inflatable things to it.

  3. I prefer negatively buoyant housing rather than neutral. You need to have more grip to use those guys but in my case, I get better (stable) pictures with those housings rather than the neutral ones. I think that's because you need more grip to play with them.

  4. How about wings mounted on a base plate. The base would serve as a horizontal wing with end plates as verticals. Just bend up a sheet of aluminum. Inflatable thingies & bungys may work but seems like just more things to play with & adjust underwater. Keep it simple. Try (if you haven't already) keeping your arms locked out straight or elbows pulled into your chest. This will keep you more steady.

    Edited by jcclink
  5. I prefer negatively buoyant housing rather than neutral. You need to have more grip to use those guys but in my case, I get better (stable) pictures with those housings rather than the neutral ones. I think that's because you need more grip to play with them.

     

    My old housing had no monitor, just the small viewfinder. Shooting position was the housing held up pressed against my mask. For me, with this housing, I preferred neutral.

     

    My current housing has an external monitor that I can rotate and tilt. Shooting position is the housing is held lower with the monitor tilted up. This housing I prefer negative.

     

    Kind of makes sense when think about steady buoyancy and how weighting at the end or middle affects trim.

  6. I like the idea of a bungee or rope to make it taught. Personally (and this is recently reflected in my tests with the HF S10) I have a VERY hard time shooting steady footage with the smaller cameras. Im used to the large systems (EX1, Red) and with those being negative, I can lock my elbows in tight and brace myself...but not so much with small units, especially when bobbing on the surface as I was shooting whale sharks in Holbox.

     

    I say give that idea a shot..and report back to us, it sounds great!

  7. If you go for the taught bungie idea, you want to attach it on a d-ring near your shoulders. In other words at the centre of rotation of your arms and not too low on your body. Then the tension will be about right across a range of arm positions (e.g. held in front of you in open water as well as out ahead of you if you're laid on the bottom).

  8. Yes, I'm definitely trying the bungee approach on my next dive. Thanks for all the great tips!

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