Getting to TTL, I'm still so confused

Hi!

So ever since I first went from film to digital my photo technique has dramatically changed underwater. I used to shoot my camera in manual mode and the TTL strobe would usually lead to a somewhat properly exposed image. Fast forward a decade and I'm shooting with a D700 in an Aquatica Housing with Sea and Sea YS110a strobes. Now I'm shooting in manual mode for both the camera and the strobe and the results are not pretty. Usually by the time I get the settings right the animal I had so perfectly composed a minute earlier has swam on leaving me with an image of someone's over or under exposed tail.

I've heard about these TTL converters made by a couple companies, but honestly am somewhat befuddled at what to do next. The 110a product information said it improved TTL performance, but I'm obviously not understanding something. I've read up on the various types of ttl but still am not sure what I'm doing wrong here. Please help me stop taking so many pictures of fins...

Many thanks,

Jake

Ok but the sea and sea converter on the BH photo site says it's for sea and sea housings. Can I still put it on my aquatica housing?

I had the same problem when I switched from film (F100) to digital (D300) last year (not counting land photography, I was shooting uw (on film) for about a year then). I quickly ran out and bought myself a TTL converter which I quickly decided that it does not help very much once I get used to digital. If you have been shooting well in film, I would suggest to give yourself some more exposure (pardon the pun) before investing in a TTL converter.

So I use my YS 110a I should go with the Sea and Sea TTL converter for Nikon Cameras.

If I want to use one of my older Ikelite strobes with my D700 should I use one of these?

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/4999..._for_Nikon.html

I am using the Heinrichs Weikamp converter. There is a huge difference in using TTL for UW (especially macro), I find the experience liberating as it gives you alot of safety in not overexposing your images. Biggest plus is the time savings when you aim, without scaring fish away.

When I did research on this forum last year some people reported the sea&sea converter had flooded and eventually the manufacturer took it off the market. I'm not sure if the current one is a replacment model, but I decided against Sea&Sea and for the Heinrichs at the time. Maybe someone with a sea&sea converter can comment on this.

The Heinrichs Weikamp converter will not work with the D700 and YS110 alpha's. The YS110 alpha timings (12000 us) are not quick enough for the D700 (7500 us). The only option for you is to use the sea & sea converter. As has already been alluded to, this will also require rewiring the bulkhead to use all 5 pins. IIUC, this means replacing the bulkhead on the aquatica housings.

Fast forward a few months and lots of reading and I think it would be easiest if I went with my ike DS strobes with the ike ttl adapter gizmo. (see link below) Problem is it doesn't connect to the bulkhead on the Aquatica housing. What have I missed?

Thanks everyone!

Jake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jakelevenson/4066451852/

Just dropped in on that one, I don't cruise the strobe section a lot,

Let me shed some light (pun intended) on this.

Your Aquatica D700 comes with an internal switchboard that allows you to go from 2 pins on each bulkhead for full manual to 5 pins / 2 pins for use with a TTL converter (or a housed Nikon iTTL flash). Given your current choice of the Sea & Sea YS 110 I would go with the Sea and Sea converter (the latest version), all you have to do is move all the small switch to the up position and plug the converter into the main connector (the one with 5 pins activated).

If you do plan on using your Ikelite Strobes you should first check with their website compatibillity chart to see if your strobes are compatible with the iTTL converter. See http://ikelite.com/web_two/ittl_adapter.html at the bottom of the page there is a link for serial number compatibillity.

if they do, then you will want to get the 4302 iTTL converter which is compatible with Nikonos type connector which are 5 pins (we have) and depending if you want single strobe then one cord 4103.51 or for dual strobes uses cord 4103.52, it work very nicely (that what I personnaly use for lighting).

Now before you ask why there is only one connector that is 5 pins while the other is 2 pins, Nikon will not tolerate two hardwired flashes connected to the camera (nothing to do with the housing) so let say you had a pair of SB800 that you wanted to put in housing and bring underwater, you would only be allowed to connect one SB800 to the camera/housing, the other would have to be triggered optically, just like using it top side. putting 5 pins / 5 pins on a housing is seriously asking for trouble as if you where to connect two strobes or flashes (BTW can anybody explain to me why they are called flashes up there and strobes down there????) you would freeze the camera solid. 2 pins / 2 pins is different since only the sync and ground are active.

The TTL converter kind of tricks the camera into thinking its dealing with a single dual head strobe, that makes it kosher for the camera

BTW can anybody explain to me why they are called flashes up there and strobes down there????)

Flash would seem to be the more proper term. Strobe is derived from strobos (to whirl). Since we all are very cool and hip underwater photogs , we use the term strobe to confuse the plebis!

Jean, don't party too hard in Orlando; save some for Chi-town. See ya and your toys in February.

Bob

BTW can anybody explain to me why they are called flashes up there and strobes down there????)

Probably something to do with what one is trying to enhance. Who knows what the first folks involved in UW photography were trying to experience.

My own feeling is that flash is a better term as well - or electronic flash.

rinjani

Harold Edgerton (of MIT, I think) first used electronically controlled discharge tubes in multiple exposures showing movement as a series of snapshots on a single negative: a stroboscopic effect. He later developed electronic units for Cousteau, and, I believe, deepwater units used with the submersible Alvin: I like "strobe" as it honours the pioneers of underwater photography.

"Flash" is what a "strobe" does!

Tim

Off Topic, but still interesting, Papa Edgerton develloped a flash array that was fitted in the belly of B-25 bomber (I think they where B-25) these in turn would fly low pass at night over Normandy and snap some shots of the millitary defenses, I have seen of thoses flash in action in a documentary, it lighted up a sheet of newspaper in flames satnding 1 meter away from the reflector, now I have to get me a pair of those in a housing.

And after you get the picture, you can eat the fish n chips....

Well after trying my Aquatica D700 with the internal settings set right this time I still didn't get TTL with both the Sea and Sea or Ike controllers. So now it's off to Backscatter for me! I'm pretty sure I've done every think right at this point so I'm gonna have my gear looked at by a pro. That time of the year anyway!

Just dropped in on that one, I don't cruise the strobe section a lot,

 

Let me shed some light (pun intended) on this.

 

Your Aquatica D700 comes with an internal switchboard that allows you to go from 2 pins on each bulkhead for full manual to 5 pins / 2 pins for use with a TTL converter (or a housed Nikon iTTL flash). Given your current choice of the Sea & Sea YS 110 I would go with the Sea and Sea converter (the latest version), all you have to do is move all the small switch to the up position and plug the converter into the main connector (the one with 5 pins activated).

 

If you do plan on using your Ikelite Strobes you should first check with their website compatibillity chart to see if your strobes are compatible with the iTTL converter. See http://ikelite.com/web_two/ittl_adapter.html at the bottom of the page there is a link for serial number compatibillity.

 

if they do, then you will want to get the 4302 iTTL converter which is compatible with Nikonos type connector which are 5 pins (we have) and depending if you want single strobe then one cord 4103.51 or for dual strobes uses cord 4103.52, it work very nicely (that what I personnaly use for lighting).

 

Now before you ask why there is only one connector that is 5 pins while the other is 2 pins, Nikon will not tolerate two hardwired flashes connected to the camera (nothing to do with the housing) so let say you had a pair of SB800 that you wanted to put in housing and bring underwater, you would only be allowed to connect one SB800 to the camera/housing, the other would have to be triggered optically, just like using it top side. putting 5 pins / 5 pins on a housing is seriously asking for trouble as if you where to connect two strobes or flashes (BTW can anybody explain to me why they are called flashes up there and strobes down there????) you would freeze the camera solid. 2 pins / 2 pins is different since only the sync and ground are active.

 

The TTL converter kind of tricks the camera into thinking its dealing with a single dual head strobe, that makes it kosher for the camera