How to attach ULCS adapter to Ikelite DS-160 or DS-125?

Hi everyone,

I just bought a ULCS arm and am trying to attach it to my Ikelite strobe. ULCS provides the following instructions: http://www.ulcs.com/files/AD-125.pdf

I am having trouble with step 1 - the screw that holds the plastic piece that comes with the strobe is very tight and and grooves in the head are not very deep, so I am having trouble removing it. I have the same problem with both of my strobes - one new DS-160 and one old DS-125.

Any suggestions on what I can do?

Thank you.

Hi everyone,

 

I just bought a ULCS arm and am trying to attach it to my Ikelite strobe. ULCS provides the following instructions: http://www.ulcs.com/files/AD-125.pdf

 

I am having trouble with step 1 - the screw that holds the plastic piece that comes with the strobe is very tight and and grooves in the head are not very deep, so I am having trouble removing it. I have the same problem with both of my strobes - one new DS-160 and one old DS-125.

 

Any suggestions on what I can do?

 

Thank you.

If your strobes are older / used been in salt water there is a very good chance that the screws have had a electrolysis that has caused the screw to basically seize it self to the adapter that is currently attached to the strobe.

You could try soaking the effected parts in a solution of 20% white vinegar and distilled water to remove any salt deposits.

If you use the correct bit Phillips #1 and apply enough downward pressure so that you don't strip the head of the screw you can twist the screw in two. Of course the old adapter will be useless but it will be removed and you can install the new adapter. Be sure to use the correct screws with the new adapters. I have also been told that a product called tef-gel (http://www.tef-gel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor) is a marine anti-size product. It's not cheep 3cc Syringe $9.00 but it is supposed to work.

Bill

If your strobes are older / used been in salt water there is a very good chance that the screws have had a electrolysis that has caused the screw to basically seize it self to the adapter that is currently attached to the strobe.

 

You could try soaking the effected parts in a solution of 20% white vinegar and distilled water to remove any salt deposits.

 

If you use the correct bit Phillips #1 and apply enough downward pressure so that you don't strip the head of the screw you can twist the screw in two. Of course the old adapter will be useless but it will be removed and you can install the new adapter. Be sure to use the correct screws with the new adapters. I have also been told that a product called tef-gel (http://www.tef-gel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor) is a marine anti-size product. It's not cheep 3cc Syringe $9.00 but it is supposed to work.

 

Bill

The head of the screw is already somewhat stripped on the DS-125 (I bought it second hand). I will try again with the DS-160 when I go home tonight. I am surprised to have this issue on the DS-160, since it is almost brand new.

If the head is striped, the only thing I could suggest is a Dremel tool and a steady hand. Be sure you are using a relatively new or a good condition #1 Philip's bit or screw driver. The most common size is a #2 and thats too big.

Good Luck

Bill

Almost all 125 and 160 strobes have this problem.

Take a dremel and cut a groove in the top of the screw head to use a large flat head screwdriver. I have used this fix many times and it has never let me down.

Almost all 125 and 160 strobes have this problem.

 

Take a dremel and cut a groove in the top of the screw head to use a large flat head screwdriver. I have used this fix many times and it has never let me down.

Thanks for your advice. I managed to get the screw on the DS-160 to come loose using a Philips #1. I think I will have to try a dremel on the DS-125.

Had the same recently on two 125's and a 160.

Two I broke the heads off and the third I drilled off.

Then inverted foot fitting of the ball, drilled and tapped fresh holes.

All went back together with new stainless steel set screws and a little spot of silicone.

Sorry not an easy fix if you don't have the right drill / taps but you might find a freindly local engineer.

p.s. Be carefull with any chemicals and be carefull cutting a new slot as there is not much space.

Cheers,

Richard B.

Probably too late, but for future reference, an old trick is to dip the tip of the screw driver in a little valve grinding compound. The compound fills the gaps that have started to wear off on the head of the screw.

thanks for sharing

Hey there,

Try not to do what I did yesterday and twist off the head of the ULCS screw. The angle it goes in isn't quite parrallel and I forced it. Try pushing the UCLS ball until the screw can be pushed in to reach it, then gently tighten it. By doing the screw up you pull the ball into the right place.

HTH

cheers, joe

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