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dome port's difference

Started by schow ·

  • 5Posts
  • 5Replies

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dome port's difference

5 posts
  1. i am interest to get into sea & sea MDX-D300 housing but they have 3 different dome port for the lens i have .

    my lens is nikon 12-24mm F4

    the dome port are 1. NX fisheye dome port

    2. NX compact dome port

    3. CX compact dome port

    with all these three dome port take the photo differently?

    if i use it on 24mm zoom does it make any different?

    if i take shot very close to the subject does it make any different?

    with this housing i have a inon z-220 and D-2000 strobe is that powerful enough to shoot wide or close up?

    and how should i suppose to hook up to the housing?

  2. i am interest to get into sea & sea MDX-D300 housing but they have 3 different dome port for the lens i have .my lens is nikon 12-24mm F4, the dome port are

    1. NX fisheye dome port

    2. NX compact dome port

    3. CX compact dome port

    with all these three dome port take the photo differently?

    Obs: The CX Compact Dome is to be used with the NX Compact Macro Port Base (not really suitable)

    If you change no.3 by the Optical Dome Port (a small dome made of glass) the question is more correct.

     

    R:Not really, only slight differences but they should probably be used with the correct port extension SX or ER40 extension rings, I plan to buy this lens and test it with both in the future. The Optical Dome probably have better Image Quality.

     

    if i use it on 24mm zoom does it make any different?

    Specially at the "less" wide focal length of 24mm you will note very little difference if any at all.

     

    if i take shot very close to the subject does it make any different?

    That's where the differences get more perceptible, the bigger dome (NX Fisheye) might not allow you to get as close as the other 2 smaller ones.

    The NX Compact and Optical Dome are 99% the same size.

     

    with this housing i have a inon z-220 and D-2000 strobe is that powerful enough to shoot wide or close up? and how should i suppose to hook up to the housing?

    2 strobes are normally OK for this lens, I don't use these (I have 2 YS110s).

    People using them might have a better answer.

     

    Good Luck

  3. Obs: The CX Compact Dome is to be used with the NX Compact Macro Port Base (not really suitable)

    If you change no.3 by the Optical Dome Port (a small dome made of glass) the question is more correct.

     

    R:Not really, only slight differences but they should probably be used with the correct port extension SX or ER40 extension rings, I plan to buy this lens and test it with both in the future. The Optical Dome probably have better Image Quality.

     

     

    Specially at the "less" wide focal length of 24mm you will note very little difference if any at all.

     

     

    That's where the differences get more perceptible, the bigger dome (NX Fisheye) might not allow you to get as close as the other 2 smaller ones.

    The NX Compact and Optical Dome are 99% the same size.

     

     

    2 strobes are normally OK for this lens, I don't use these (I have 2 YS110s).

    People using them might have a better answer.

     

    Good Luck

     

    thank you for all the answer

    i saw you are using ys110s and ys90 how are they?

    do you use them to shoot manual or ttl?

    what do you set on the camera and the strobes when you shooting on either setting?

    do you just set your shutter to 60 only or what else do you set that to?

  4. The YS90 + YS120 are used on my film setup (Nikon F80s on NX-80 housing)

     

    do you use them to shoot manual or ttl?

    I use 2 YS-110s on my digital setup (Nikon D300 on MDX-D300 housing), they are used manual all the time (no TTL converter).

    On the film setup I used TTL on macro setups.

     

    what do you set on the camera and the strobes when you shooting on either setting?

    Nowadays I dive mostly digital (film housing bulkhead needs to be fixed).

    I don't memorize my settings.

    When I buy the camera I run the Menus several times creating menu banks for Topside and Underwater (Macro & Wide).

    I dive in mode M 90% of the time. In Macro I start out on 1/250 and f/16 and work the flash power on the first minutes of the dive, but from them on several things can (and do!) change: Flash Power, Aperture, even the AF Mode Switch. I do play a lot with the AF Sensor Selector (thumb-pad) as most of my shots are in single AF Area.

     

    do you just set your shutter to 60 only or what else do you set that to?

    Normally I start at the Flash Sync Speed, but from them on I might slow it down to get some ambient light, or might even shoot in A mode to get a panning effect on running fishes. But it has almost nothing to do with hand-held speeds, as most of the macro shots will be "frozen" by the flash at more than 1/1000s

  5. The YS90 + YS120 are used on my film setup (Nikon F80s on NX-80 housing)

     

     

    I use 2 YS-110s on my digital setup (Nikon D300 on MDX-D300 housing), they are used manual all the time (no TTL converter).

    On the film setup I used TTL on macro setups.

     

     

    Nowadays I dive mostly digital (film housing bulkhead needs to be fixed).

    I don't memorize my settings.

    When I buy the camera I run the Menus several times creating menu banks for Topside and Underwater (Macro & Wide).

    I dive in mode M 90% of the time. In Macro I start out on 1/250 and f/16 and work the flash power on the first minutes of the dive, but from them on several things can (and do!) change: Flash Power, Aperture, even the AF Mode Switch. I do play a lot with the AF Sensor Selector (thumb-pad) as most of my shots are in single AF Area.

     

     

    Normally I start at the Flash Sync Speed, but from them on I might slow it down to get some ambient light, or might even shoot in A mode to get a panning effect on running fishes. But it has almost nothing to do with hand-held speeds, as most of the macro shots will be "frozen" by the flash at more than 1/1000s

    thanks for all these useful information

    you think your 2 ys-110 is powerful enough to use with wide angle shooting. because my 2 inon is about the same power as yours.

    i currently using olympus c-5060 with my two strobes with optical setting but a lot of time the picture come out blueish color doesn't matter what i try on the setting on my strobes.

    so you think i don't necessary to get the TTL converter if i buy the new system?

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