I've always fancied visiting and diving around the Sangalaki archipelago, and have heard a lot of good things about it.
But from some recent discussion on scubaboard.com it sounds like things are not going well there, with resorts being shut by the local government, fishermen moving into the resort and island, and the area is being trashed and bomb fished. See http://www.sangalaki.net/ for some more info.
Has anyone been out there recently, who can offer their opinion? Is this just one resort having troubles, or is the area going downhill?
Well, I've found out a bit more information. From some internet searching it seems the resort owners were treated appallingly when they were evicted from Sangalaki - with very little notice, and much of their property that was left behind looted and stolen.
I also recieved the below reply to my query on another forum:
I was there in July (stayed on Derawan), in my opinion the area is fantastic and things are improving rather than going downhill (though it was my first visit).
The resort on Sangalaki was closed a couple of years ago for conservation reasons (well maybe other factors were involved but this is the official line) - the island is now a total preserve for nesting turtles and has a permanently manned guard-post and turtle conservation unit there. You can land and walk around by day and maybe also at night join the turtle guys to watch nesting turtles, but you can also see this on Derawan. And of course can still dive and snorkel the surrounding reefs. Snorkelling with 6-7 huge circling mantas off Sangalaki is one of my all-time underwater highlights.
Many places to stay on Derawan which is home to a Badjo vilage, also a resort on Maratua and rumours of a planned resort on Kakaban - although this would be a mistake in my opinion.
As with many places in the region fish bombing and other nasty practices have occured in the past but these do seem to be a thing of the past now, there are conservation and education programmes and initiatives that seem to be paying off, although the harvesting of hawksbill turtles while protecting and respecting green turtles is still an issue on Derawan.
The islands get very few visitors compared with nearby Mabul, Sipadan etc. or with Bunaken but the underwater life is just as good if not better, and of course the price is much cheaper. The more people do go the more incentive there is for locals to protect the marine resources.
On Derawan there are only really 2 dive operations - a really expensive one within Derawan Dive Resort or a better priced alternative within Danakan Homestay. The problem with the latter is they are often pre-booked by groups so if you just arrive it can be tricky to get a dive. Snorkelling around Derawan and Sangalaki is great, in fact snorkel is best for the Mantas. Maratua and Kakaban have drop-offs with big stuff possible.
If anyone has any further information, that would be good to know.
Well, I've found out a bit more information. From some internet searching it seems the resort owners were treated appallingly when they were evicted from Sangalaki - with very little notice, and much of their property that was left behind looted and stolen.
I also recieved the below reply to my query on another forum:
If anyone has any further information, that would be good to know.
I booked a couple of years ago under the previous owners (Ron Holland) and lost my deposit as they jumped ship ... who knows why but do not think it was conservation ... Vietnam Divers took over and i thought they were doing well until seeing this.
I stayed on Nabucco (Extra Divers .. Germany) cannot speak too highly of it -- excellent resort and diving.
... Vietnam Divers took over and i thought they were doing well until seeing this..jpg.857dbbfbdc4d79d9c6ebf7b4ba96ed1b.jpg)
