When using two strobes, you need to consider how you want to balance the light across the image. If you point the strobes to light half the image each, you may end up with one side of the picture looking lighter than the other if the strobes don't have similar guide numbers. With my film camera, I would use two strobes of different power for some CFWA situations where I used a small strobe (Ikelite MV) to light the center of the image (the CF part) and a larger strobe to light the rest (the WA part). Another thing to think about is how the strobe's slave function operates. The Ike DS-strobes recreate the pre-flash. I think the Epoque does the same. The Sea&Sea strobes ignore the preflash and fire on the second (main) flash. Some practice would probably be necessary (but then again, it always is
).
As for strobe arms, I bought an Ultralight Nikonos tray and it fits onto the PT-010 nicely. It can be adapted for one or two arms -- I currently use one arm consisting of a handle, a 5" standard ULCS segment, an 8" buoyancy arm, two standard clamps, a triple clamp, a strobe adaptor and an adaptor for the Ike remote sensor. These arms are sweet, but you pay for them. My little setup cost around $300, including the tray. You might also go to Underwaterdigital.net to see the Fisheye arms setup and Sea&Sea's arm. Yet another idea might be to build your own. Many companies are offering strobe arms made from Loc-Line modular tubing and you can get the pieces at several industrial supply places. I made some arms out of a similar product called Snap-Loc (I find it to be a bit more sturdy) for my Substrobe MVs. As long as you can figure out how to mount the strobe to the arm and the arm to the tray, this is really cool. I built both arms for less than $70, including some piece-parts I scavanged from old Ike equipment and stuff I ordered from them. Oh, and lots of epoxy
. If you're curious, I might be able to post some pictures of my handiwork after I get home this evening . . .
Mike
[Edited on 1-25-2002 by MikeO]