Nikon 10-24 & Sea&Sea

Some people have been asking about this lens.

I have just got mine, on dry tests on MDX series it shows the best port alignment with the front nodal point as:

Optical Dome Port; (I just have this one, but it should be exactly the same for the Compact Dome, and it has a big chance of being the same for the FE Dome Port)

SX Extension Ring AND

Extension Ring 40.

I will try to get some pool test done this week and will probably try it out on the sea later this month.

Good Luck

Hi,

I broke my Tokina 12-24 and am taking a hard look a the 10-24mm as a replacement.

Do you have any feedback regarding its performance with the Sea and Sea setup?

Thanks!

John

You want to line the lens/port combo with the posterior nodal point.

Do you have any feedback regarding its performance with the Sea and Sea setup?

Thanks!

John

Hi John, I only used it in the configuration I told you behind my Optical Dome Port (the glass one).

It was stuck at 10mm, but I just got my zoom ring and I am going to give it a try...

So far I really liked it, I had a Sigma 10-20mm, which I sold when this lens was announced.

I think the Nikon 10-24 gives me a better range (specially on topside) than the Sigma and slightly better edges, but it was harder to use inside a housing.

The Sigma I found out that required the ER40 instead of the recommended SXER, this one requires both.

I am a big fisheye fan, so I don't use it as much. But the few times I used this new one I really liked, it's my preferred pelagic lens.

You want to line the lens/port combo with the posterior nodal point.

If you mean to match the Dome Port Center with the lens Entry Nodal Point, you're absolutely right, that's why I suggest this different combo than Sea&Sea's one. Otherwise the lens nodal point is far ahead of the dome's center.

Good Luck

If you mean to match the Dome Port Center with the lens Entry Nodal Point, you're absolutely right, that's why I suggest this different combo than Sea&Sea's one. Otherwise the lens nodal point is far ahead of the dome's center.

 

Good Luck

It should be port radius of curvature center (probably what you mean by dome port center) and len's entrance pupil. This is from Gomer McNeil's book, Optical fundamentals of underwater photography, THE primary source.

http://openlibrary.org/b/OL5284247M/Optica...ter_photography

It should be port radius of curvature center (probably what you mean by dome port center) and len's entrance pupil. This is from Gomer McNeil's book, Optical fundamentals of underwater photography, THE primary source.

http://openlibrary.org/b/OL5284247M/Optica...ter_photography

Yes, I have seen a few variations of those names in newer references that covers more than uwphoto.

Specially omitting the word "radius" on the first term not to lead to the "center of the radius" idea, and changing the wording of "pupil" to "node" on the second term due to the size-changing characteristics of a generic "pupil".

But you're 100% Correct, it is one of the best books in optics for uwphotography, and I am looking for a version of it (PDF or real paper).

My main doubts were about the sentence used by dave:

"Line up the lens/port with a nodal point" technically confusing, I just wanted to make sure we were on the same frequency as this describes lining up the lens and port with something somewhere else... I think ...and the word "posterior" seemed to refer to the back or "exit" nodal point. that is referent to the "back focal distance"... ...which in turn describes a different thing than "focal length" ;o) and so on...

Forgot to mention:

- No diopter needed like this;

- Most of the problems due to dome/lens misalignment, occurs at the wide end of the zoom, but nevertheless this lens almost doesn't change it's size (as compared to other WA zooms) while zoomed. It is in fact shortest at 15mm, 2mm longer at 10mm and maybe 7mm longer at 24mm. Still too little to advocate the abandon of an SX Extension Ring at 20mm wide...

Good Luck

What looks to be a 180 deg hemispherical dome may not be. You need to measure it to locate the center of curvature. My Nexus FP170 port looks like a hemi but it's not a full 180 deg. The center of curvature is 20mm past the base plate. This will add to length of extension ring required to mount at the nodal point.

Sea&Sea domes are just like that also...

and changing the wording of "pupil" to "node" on the second term due to the size-changing characteristics of a generic "pupil".

The node (either one) and entrance pupil are not the same thing. The nodes are where the principal planes intersect the optical axis. The entrance pupil is the apparent position of the aperture when viewed from the front of the lens (entrance). Yes, there is an exit pupil as well.

Weird... for some reason I had that the Nodal Planes (N) would coincide with the pupil planes (En/Ex) which is of course not the case...

Anyway, thanks for sticking with it, just rest assured the tests done on the lens/dome I described were done with the basis of the "pupil" position then.

Good Luck

Some people have been asking about this lens.

I have just got mine, on dry tests on MDX series it shows the best port alignment with the front nodal point as:

Optical Dome Port; (I just have this one, but it should be exactly the same for the Compact Dome, and it has a big chance of being the same for the FE Dome Port)

SX Extension Ring AND

Extension Ring 40.

I will try to get some pool test done this week and will probably try it out on the sea later this month.

 

Good Luck

Marcelo

I would be very interested in you findings with this new lens. I, just like you did, use a Sigma 10-20 for the few occations I want a wide rectilinear. Please keep us updated on how you think it behaves and performs UW behind a domeport compared to the Sigma.

cheers

Many thanks for the advice, my 10-24 is on order now.

Understand that you reccomend both the ER40 and the SX together with no diopter for the Sea and Sea housings.

I am told that the 18-70 zoom gear works well, when it arrives I will test it.

Appreciate the help!

John

Many thanks for the advice, my 10-24 is on order now.

 

Understand that you reccomend both the ER40 and the SX together with no diopter for the Sea and Sea housings.

 

I am told that the 18-70 zoom gear works well, when it arrives I will test it.

 

Appreciate the help!

John

My zoom ring just arrived, and yes it is the right one.

Some people worked it out with the 12-24 zoom ring as well... but I did not test this one.

Great news on the zoom ring!

BTW, enjoyed browsing your website,

Thanks,

john

Great news on the zoom ring!

 

BTW, enjoyed browsing your website,

Thanks,

john

just to confirm, I'm using this with the 12-24mm zoom ring and works without any issues.

Hello I am new to this forum and have a question about the Nikon 10-24 mm lens.

Does somebody have photos taken with this lens underwater ofcouse?

My website

www.onderwaterfoto1.nl

Some people have been asking about this lens.

I have just got mine, on dry tests on MDX series it shows the best port alignment with the front nodal point as:

Optical Dome Port; (I just have this one, but it should be exactly the same for the Compact Dome, and it has a big chance of being the same for the FE Dome Port)

SX Extension Ring AND

Extension Ring 40.

I will try to get some pool test done this week and will probably try it out on the sea later this month.

 

Good Luck

Hi, I have the 10-24 Nikon lens and I want to purchase the extention rings for use it with a Sea & Sea housing and the D7100 camera and NX Compact Dome.

I've read that the japanese seaandsea site (http://www.seaandsea.jp/products/system_chart/mdx_nikon.html) recommends to buy the 20L Extention Ring, but you say that ER40 and SXER are the ones that I should really buy. Is that correct?? (I just want to confirm that fact because I'm not an english speaker and I was confused with the entry nodal point explanation).

Thanks!!

Hola Gus,

Yes the Marcelo' s combo is equivalent to Er20L+Er40L. The new S&S ring series are "L" named 'cause the security lock inside the ring, but they offer the same extension of SXER (20mm) and ER40 (40mm). Sea&Sea also has introduced a new ER30L (30 mm) and finally they offer a secure and varius extension ring system.

In any case don't trust in sea&sea lens chart, it's incomplete and contain mistakes.

I shot with MDX housings and I've tried different options with different lenses, in my experience with rectilinear zoom wide and dome port 240 (old type and new one) I've obtained best results when the front lens is quite complained with the base of the dome port. This empiric regula guarantee clear shots and also improoved using the new corrective lens Sea&Sea M77.

I give you the sets that I have used on dome port 240, most of those are not documentated in s&s lens chart

Dx sigma 8-16 --> ER40: quite good

FX Nikon 17-35/2.8 --> ER20 + ER40: quite good

FX sigma 24/1.4 Art --> M77 & ER40: very good

FX Nikon 18-35/3.5-4.5 G --> M77 & ER20 + ER40: very good

I suppose that Nikon 17-35 can give better results using M77, unfortunately last summer I crashed the lens on rocks (and me too) so I was unable to try it; I've purchased the cheaper Nikon 18-35 G and it surprised me giving great quality pictures BUT NOT BY SEA&SEA LENS CHART INDICATIONS!! S&S suggest to use only the ER40 in combo with M77 lens. I've tried it shooting very orrible pictures: internal dome reflections and poor sharpness in the corner. Great result, thank you S&s. I've added ER20 extension and everything changed: no inner reflections and hight sharpness all over the frame.

In your case I suggest the M77 and Er40+ ER20 , but don't miss to consider ER40+ER30 it could surprise you.

I hope to be usefull

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