Equipment Questions

Hello everyone! I am a new member, and I am extremely excited about finding my way to this forum. I have been unsuccessfully trying for months now to find a good place for information to guide me to jumping into the underwater photography scene. This forum however seems like a fantastic location of a lot of good information and helpful people. A bit of background info, I have been diving for about 6 years now, but I do not live close to the ocean, so my dive trips are week long trips once or twice a year. These trips are almost always to places in or around the Caribbean. I plan to shoot mostly landscape underwater. Now onto some questions (I apologize if many of you have seen this theme of questions before).

1) My first question is around what camera to use for underwater work. I do most of my landscape photography with my Canon 5dmk2, but I use a 40D for more adventurous activities (rock climbing, mountain biking). I am leaning towards using the 40D for two reasons, but want to know what you guys think. First is that it is obviously a cheaper camera in case of accident. Secondly, it seems like finding a lens to work would be far easier on the APS-C vs full frame body (for example the Tokina 10-17mm Fisheye)

2) For housing, I am looking at the Ikelite. I have read many posts on here about the subject, but overall it seems like most are happy with their Ikelite housings. It is a good affordable housing for me to get started with, especially if looking at using the 40D.

3) As far as strobes go, I obviously have the popular question of one vs two strobes. It sounds like the best idea is for me to get one good strobe to start out with and then add a second later down the road? Any help on picking out that primary strobe? Do you automatically lose TTL capability by going with a different manufacturer strobe than your housing?

Thanks all for the help and information!

You might want to consider buying a used aluminum housing for your 40D vs. an Ikelite housing. Best thing to do is put your hands on a few to check out the ergonomics. Ikelite just seemed to damn bulky to me.

My one cent.

Spend a BUNCH of time here:

http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/

You'll be glad you did.

Hi Kublah, welcome to Wetpixel. Looks like you've really done your homework. I love all your choices. The 40D with a Tokina will make some amazing images. For the money right now it's hard to beat. Ikelite's new port lock system should clear up what has been a potential weakness for some. If you buy a used one, get it upgraded to the 4 lock system.

You'll make a bunch of beautiful images with one strobe. It can be tougher to light the wide angle stuff your planning on but it's a good option to save some money. Your images will tell you when or if it's time to get the second.

Non-Ikelite strobes can be used, but they don't provide eTTL exposure. Special sync cords are available to connect non-Ikelite strobes from Nikonos, Inon, and Sea & Sea. I'm not sure the TTL is a big deal, since I'd guess most shooting wide angle do so all manual anyway. The new DS-160 looks like it might be worth a look. It's a good idea to call one of Wetpixel's sponsors. They have all the latest intel and love helping us.

Have a blast!

Steve

Thanks for the info and the great link. A lot of fantastic information on that site.

Steve, how do you tell the 2 lock vs 4 lock on the new Ikelite ports? Also is there a good place to buy underwater gear on the web? For some reason neither Adorama or B&H carry the Ikelite Port Body #5510.11 for the 10-17 FE lens.

Thanks again all!

Thanks for the info and the great link. A lot of fantastic information on that site.

 

Steve, how do you tell the 2 lock vs 4 lock on the new Ikelite ports? Also is there a good place to buy underwater gear on the web? For some reason neither Adorama or B&H carry the Ikelite Port Body #5510.11 for the 10-17 FE lens.

 

Thanks again all!

That seems odd, that they don't carry that, I'm pretty sure I got that port for my FE in June this summer at B&H.

However, that part is going to be replaced when they do the 4-lock version, so it might be because of that they don't have it in stock?

The 4port lock have just been announced, not sure when you can actually buy it, but I'l sure there is more info at www.ikelite.com to read.

Edit!

Found the new port now on B&H btw!

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/6605..._f_2_4_PRT.html

/Björn

Thanks for the link, not sure why it did not show up on my searches on B&H. =) As for the lock system, this is what Ikelite's website has to say:

"Housings shipped after Nov. 1 will also feature a new 1/4-20 threaded mounting point for the attachment of a focus light, video light or other lightweight accessories."

I will have to call B&H to see if they already have the newer one in stock.

1) My first question is around what camera to use for underwater work. I do most of my landscape photography with my Canon 5dmk2, but I use a 40D for more adventurous activities (rock climbing, mountain biking). I am leaning towards using the 40D for two reasons, but want to know what you guys think. First is that it is obviously a cheaper camera in case of accident. Secondly, it seems like finding a lens to work would be far easier on the APS-C vs full frame body (for example the Tokina 10-17mm Fisheye)

 

2) For housing, I am looking at the Ikelite. I have read many posts on here about the subject, but overall it seems like most are happy with their Ikelite housings. It is a good affordable housing for me to get started with, especially if looking at using the 40D.

 

3) As far as strobes go, I obviously have the popular question of one vs two strobes. It sounds like the best idea is for me to get one good strobe to start out with and then add a second later down the road? Any help on picking out that primary strobe? Do you automatically lose TTL capability by going with a different manufacturer strobe than your housing?

Hi

I use the 5DM2 in an Ikleite housing and I am pretty happy with that. Even more now after Ikelite added another two locks to the port system. I usually use two strobes, but on my last trip my dual sync cable broke and I had to use only one strobe most of the time. You can get an idea of the pictures I took with that set up on my website http://www.pbase.com/borneobent/underwater_bonaire . With regard to ttl, that really is a nonissue for wide angel as Steve says, as you most often have lots of time to do manual and fine tune settings. However, I really like ttl in macro mode, so I would probably never buy a housing and strobe combo that didn´t allow ttl.

With regards to the 10-17, it is true that nothing like it is available for full frame. I use the EF 17-40/4 or the EF 15 fisheye, often with a 1,4 extender. Without doubt I would buy a full frame version of the 10-17 if it ever becomes available, but I believe the 17-40 and the EF fisheye also can do pretty good jobs.

/Bent C

Great stuff Brent. Honestly after reading through a lot of posts here, I am not as worried about the 5d2 being in the water, especially considering I will likely have DAN insurance either way. However, what I don't want to do is buy another expensive lens. I currently use the 16-35 for my landscape work (I love that glass), but that lens unfortunately does not fit in any of the ports Ikelite makes. From everything I have read, the Tokina 10-17 seems like a fantastic lens for the type of underwater photography I am interested in. At that price range, it is a no brainer for me, as I can just toss it on the 40D and call it a day. I lose the video capabilities, but I would usually end up doing pictures anyway.

We will see how things go. At this point I am looking at the Ikelite 40D housing (newer one with the 4 locks, the 8" WA port, a single DS-160 strobe and the 10-17 lens. I am very excited to get it all setup before my dive trip in May. My P&S setup in the past was getting annoying, as I just did not have a good lighting setup or controls that I wanted.

Thanks again!

My situation started relatively similarly. I ultimately decided on an Ikelite housing (yes, it's a bit bulky, but I'm used to it now, and it really was the only quality housing that fit my budget... or that my budget fitted into...). I shoot with a 30D and for wide I use a Sigma 15 fish. I've read about and seen amazing results with the Tokina, but don't have it yet (it is in the plans...). As for strobes, I took the loads of advice out there - start with one as Steve says and let your images tell you when or if you need to add another. Besides, I liked the reduction in task-loading offered by one strobe as I was able to concentrate a little more mental capacity on composition. I just got my housing back after sending it in for servicing - they added the mount and the new four lock system - the housing looks brand new again! I plan on getting it in the water tomorrow.

Here's a shot with the 15 fish and my single DS-160 (great strobe, BTW):

Hope that helps... but it really looks as if you've already done your homework!

Lee

Thanks for the additional info Lee. Sounds like you ended up with the identical setup that I am looking at, except the lens. I definitely think that for me just starting out, mastering one strobe will be enough to keep me busy. This way I can focus more on positioning of the strobe and composition as you said. Do you mind if I ask how big the arms of your strobe are? Have you had any problems with the standard 6" arm in terms of getting back scatter?

I use the standard arms that came with the strobe package (as ordered from B&H). I'm not sure what the length is exactly. As for back scatter, that is a anything but a simple issue. I read Martin Edge's book in which he describes a technique called "edge lighting" - not a reference to it's author, but a reference to the part of the beam that is used for exposure. Martin suggests placing the strobe(s) behind the dome and not too far away and to use the edge of the beam to light the subject in order to reduce the potential for back scatter. In reality, I find I have to experiment a little with strobe placement to find the best exposure and lowest incidence of back scatter - which BTW, really only works with sessile subjects! I tend to place my single strobe over and behind the domeport for all shots - at least to start with. I also keep the arms flexible enough to re-position the strobe (to above and behind the dome) when I rotate the housing for a vertical.

Here's a shot in really turbid water with the single strobe directly over and slightly behind the dome pointed slightly upwards in an effort to catch the close foreground with "edge lighting". Taken with the Sigma 15.

Great info. I have actually read Martin Edge's book (it sits on my night stand still =), and I am familiar with the technique. Thanks for sharing your info from experience though on the one light setup. I will try to learn as much as I can before my trip in May.