I just purchased my underwater housing recently (Aquatica 5D Mark II) along with 2 used Inon z240 flashes. I'm about to head to a local pool to try the equipment out. I got a question regarding the flash attachments. Do I need to connect both cables to each of the bulkhead connectors? Or can I connect one and the other will work as a slave. I did some shots above water with 1 cable and it's fine. Yet the manual (omg is it sad) says to connect both or one to the other. Just curious to know.
Thanks!
Vadim
It's best to connect both strobes to the housing, but you need the appropriate connection from the camera's hot shoe to the bulkhead cable connections. Using one strobe in "slave" mode is less reliable, but made more reliable with a fibre-optic connection from the cabled strobe to the sensor of the slave strobe, tho' Inon's fibre optic cables are more expensive than some electronic cables (but don't leak, of course).
Remember that the mode button (beneath the variable power dial) should be locked down for many dSLRs (certainly Nikon cameras), when using an electronic connection, but left up in slave or optically triggered mode.
Tim
It's best to connect both strobes to the housing, but you need the appropriate connection from the camera's hot shoe to the bulkhead cable connections. Using one strobe in "slave" mode is less reliable, but made more reliable with a fibre-optic connection from the cabled strobe to the sensor of the slave strobe, tho' Inon's fibre optic cables are more expensive than some electronic cables (but don't leak, of course).
There's a DIY thread somewhere here on using super-cheap TOSLINK fiber optic cables (used for stereo equipment and available dirt cheap at places like Monoprice) to make your own fiber cables for a fraction of the cost. You'd still probably want a set of Inon cables just for the end connectors unless you want to DIY that, too (I'm sure duct tape would serve in an emergency), but at least the cables don't have to be super expensive.
There's a DIY thread somewhere here on using super-cheap TOSLINK fiber optic cables (used for stereo equipment and available dirt cheap at places like Monoprice) to make your own fiber cables for a fraction of the cost. You'd still probably want a set of Inon cables just for the end connectors unless you want to DIY that, too (I'm sure duct tape would serve in an emergency), but at least the cables don't have to be super expensive.
I've successfully made and used DIY optical cables ... I don't know what the INON connector looks like, but Fantasea and Sea&Sea are the same and I was able to order 4 pairs of terminating ends for about $20.
The connectors would be pretty easy to DIY as well ... all they do hold the cable in place ... nothing more, nothing less ...
You are absolutely right Jeremy. The Sea & Sea connectors are just generic connectors and fairly easy to obtain commercially. I would guess the INON connectors are also generic but I havn't found an independent supplier, yet! When I do, I'll be making up 10 or 20 metre slave cables for off-board illumination, 'a la Dr Mustard' :-)
Thanks for all your replies guys. I have 2 cables that came with the strobes so I guess I'll be using them in the end. Much appreciated.
Vadim
... I don't know what the INON connector looks like...
The Inon connector at the strobe end is quite fancy: it is held in place by a freely rotating shade that screws into the strobe housing, and the shade is definitely neccessary to prevent random light activating the very sensitive slave sensor...
I just use a little heat-shrink to match my DSLR camera housing's sockets at the other end, and a bit of rubber tubing wedged into the diffusor of a Fuji compact housing.
Tim
You are absolutely right Jeremy. The Sea & Sea connectors are just generic connectors and fairly easy to obtain commercially. I would guess the INON connectors are also generic but I havn't found an independent supplier, yet! When I do, I'll be making up 10 or 20 metre slave cables for off-board illumination, 'a la Dr Mustard' :-)
You can buy the naked Inon caps from Ryan at Reef for $12 or so or from Divervision for $6.95 and pay the difference in shipping perhaps. In any case, remove the c-clamp on the inon cap and remove the plug. Cut the Tosolink cable so that it is a snug fit when you pull it through the cap from the inside and all is well. A fiber optic cable for $15 or less.
Bill
By the way, does anyone know if using any regular optical fiber would work? even with a larger diameter and super long (2 meters to start) line?
I use 2mm OD fibre optic cable with a 1mm core and it works Ok. I guess anything that transmits light will do. I also modified the Inon cap as Bill describes and used heat shrink to increase the OD to fit the port on my housing.
By the way, does anyone know if using any regular optical fiber would work? even with a larger diameter and super long (2 meters to start) line?
Yes, it should. Pick up some super cheap Tosslink optical cables from Monoprice (they're used for stereo equipment), lop off the ends, and you should be set for a good long time.
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