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Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique / Archived topic

Z240s with sync cord correct settings

Started by Scubysnaps ·

  • 11Posts
  • 11Replies

Read-only discussion

Z240s with sync cord correct settings

11 posts
  1. Hi guys,

    I'm in the middle of my hols here in Manado and getting sone really good results. But my flashes don't seem to be making sense, ok I'm managing ok but it would be easier and less shots would be taken, if things made sense. The f stops dial don't seem to be making any difference, I was never sure what setting to put the bottom right hand button on, so I experimented more on my journey back from a dive and it seems, the flash is a lot weaker with this button turned up and out and a lot stronger pushed and turned either way down. Bit the buttons descrpition says "pre" for a push and turn down and normal for push up. I assume a sync cord is standard so it's not making sense much.

    Could anyone help me here? Flash positioning seems the most important factor, but your help would be most appreciated as ever.

     

    All the best guys, hope you're having a good one.

    cheers

    Paul

  2. What does the strobe do when in Auto Mode and the Advanced Cancel Cricuit is off? Is it to control over exposure?

  3. Thanks for the link :), so from this I think, I'll try it this way tomorrow, push and turn in to disable the pre flash and on auto to have f stop control of the flash, full (or is it manual? the last selection on the knob) what I was in previously, is just full power all the time

  4. Auto mode is to be avoided! In this mode the strobe controls the power output using a sensor built into the front of the strobe. Theoretically, you set the same aperture on the camera and strobe, point the strobe directly at your subject and when the strobe determines that the exposure is correct quenches the strobe's flash. The problems with this mode are; you have to point the strobe directly at your subject (not good if you want to minimise backscatter by using edge lighting) and you have to be lucky to get the tiny sensor pointing exactly where you want it.

     

    Shooting manual is the way to go. Full is a full dump of the strobe (the right hand dial does nothing when the left hand dial is set at Full). To get lower powers in manual mode set the left hand dial to M -0.5>-6 and use the right hand dial to vary the strobe out from -0.5 stop to -6 stops from full power. The -0.5 setting is at the same point as the green 11 and every click from there going anti-clockwise is another -0.5 of a stop until you get to -6 (same point as the TTL notation on the dial).

  5. Auto mode is to be avoided! In this mode the strobe controls the power output using a sensor built into the front of the strobe. Theoretically, you set the same aperture on the camera and strobe, point the strobe directly at your subject and when the strobe determines that the exposure is correct quenches the strobe's flash. The problems with this mode are; you have to point the strobe directly at your subject (not good if you want to minimise backscatter by using edge lighting) and you have to be lucky to get the tiny sensor pointing exactly where you want it.

     

    Shooting manual is the way to go. Full is a full dump of the strobe (the right hand dial does nothing when the left hand dial is set at Full). To get lower powers in manual mode set the left hand dial to M -0.5>-6 and use the right hand dial to vary the strobe out from -0.5 stop to -6 stops from full power. The -0.5 setting is at the same point as the green 11 and every click from there going anti-clockwise is another -0.5 of a stop until you get to -6 (same point as the TTL notation on the dial).

     

    i do not disagree with you, but what does the strobe do when in Auto Mode and the Advanced Cancel Cricuit is off? I just like to know.

  6. i do not disagree with you, but what does the strobe do when in Auto Mode and the Advanced Cancel Cricuit is off? I just like to know.
    Sorry can't help you out with this one. I never used Auto Mode when I used electric sync cords and now that I've gone fibre optic I can't try it out to see what happens.
  7. Sorry can't help you out with this one. I never used Auto Mode when I used electric sync cords and now that I've gone fibre optic I can't try it out to see what happens.

     

     

    I think i hijacked this thread by accident,sorry. I only use fiber optic cables too.

  8. Auto mode is to be avoided! In this mode the strobe controls the power output using a sensor built into the front of the strobe. Theoretically, you set the same aperture on the camera and strobe, point the strobe directly at your subject and when the strobe determines that the exposure is correct quenches the strobe's flash. The problems with this mode are; you have to point the strobe directly at your subject (not good if you want to minimise backscatter by using edge lighting) and you have to be lucky to get the tiny sensor pointing exactly where you want it.

     

    Shooting manual is the way to go. Full is a full dump of the strobe (the right hand dial does nothing when the left hand dial is set at Full). To get lower powers in manual mode set the left hand dial to M -0.5>-6 and use the right hand dial to vary the strobe out from -0.5 stop to -6 stops from full power. The -0.5 setting is at the same point as the green 11 and every click from there going anti-clockwise is another -0.5 of a stop until you get to -6 (same point as the TTL notation on the dial).

    Ok auto mode didnt go well with the wreck dive this morning, but was good with the macro later on probably because the viz was better than the other day (tasik ria's local dives seem to be very under rated! they're exellent!), I'm off to Lembeh again tomorrow (tired of bunaken) so may keep the auto, but may try the M setting too

     

    ...dont worry about the hijack, I've done my fair bit in that :)

  9. The ACC is only relevant to optical connection: it has to be disabled when using a synch. cord.

     

    I strongly suspect that Auto also fails when using a synch. cable.

     

    I think that it's essential to use the Manual settings with a synch. cord...

     

    ... and you have to be careful to have the right contacts in the hot-shoe adapter, as this can cause problems, too. The adapter should be set up as for an old Nikonos system.

     

    This sort of thing seems to come up every once in a while: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20639

     

    Tim

     

    :)

    Edited by tdpriest
  10. Thanks Tim,

    I used it on M setting yesterday and the other button pushed and turned in, it seemed to work well although I didn't adjust the settings much. More practise tomorrow tho ;)

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