From UWPhotographyGuide - "#5 – Bring a dive light with you to help your camera auto-focus."
Is this because when you have a strobe it doesn't shine a light on the subject area before it flashes and essentially your camera could be trying to focus in the dark/low light?
Trying to work a dive light and turning it off before the strobe fires, focusing and altering apertures and shutter speeds sounds a bit complicated...
How do you get around this? Can you set the strobe to shine a light on the subject?
Cheers
From UWPhotographyGuide - "#5 – Bring a dive light with you to help your camera auto-focus."
Is this because when you have a strobe it doesn't shine a light on the subject area before it flashes and essentially your camera could be trying to focus in the dark/low light?
Trying to work a dive light and turning it off before the strobe fires, focusing and altering apertures and shutter speeds sounds a bit complicated...
How do you get around this? Can you set the strobe to shine a light on the subject?
Cheers
There are strobes that have built in modeling lights, but in general one doesn't point the strobe directly at the subject. One typically attaches a small light directly to the housing that will point at the subjects and let the camera have enough light to autofocus. There are tons of ways to attach the light to the housing and there are focus lights for every budget from a few dollars to several hundred. Hope this helps
Bill
In tropical water AF is rarely a problem. At night, at depth and in gloomy water a focus light can help, but isn't needed for every lens (I find that a 105mm micro-Nikkor is the most AF unfriendly lens that I have). I use a tiny, cheap, Fantasea Nano focus light; it is inhibited as the strobe fires, but illuminates the focus area from a mounting on the top of my housing.
