I've noticed since I switched to shooting with fiber optic cables that most of my close up or macro shots have a very distinctive yellow cast to the image when imported into Lightroom. I am shooting with both the 20D and 7D, taking advantage of it TTL capabilities with the Inon strobes. Both cameras are set to AWB.
The fix is simple enough -- I have to set the white balance to Auto instead of As Shot on my images (done during importing). Sometimes the Flash option for white balance works well, too. That appears to take care of the issue most of the time, but sometimes I am forced to manually white balance.
I'm curious to know... Has anyone else had this problem? I'm assuming that the Inon's must be making the auto white balance of the Canons go out of whack. I never had this issue when using electrical sync cords.
I've noticed since I switched to shooting with fiber optic cables that most of my close up or macro shots have a very distinctive yellow cast to the image when imported into Lightroom. I am shooting with both the 20D and 7D, taking advantage of it TTL capabilities with the Inon strobes. Both cameras are set to AWB.
The fix is simple enough -- I have to set the white balance to Auto instead of As Shot on my images (done during importing). Sometimes the Flash option for white balance works well, too. That appears to take care of the issue most of the time, but sometimes I am forced to manually white balance.
I'm curious to know... Has anyone else had this problem? I'm assuming that the Inon's must be making the auto white balance of the Canons go out of whack. I never had this issue when using electrical sync cords.
I know than when in auto or flash using an external speedlight topside that it matches the colour balance to the output of the flash. It is probably doing the same with the pop up flash and setting WB value according to the output of the pop up.
A better option for macro (flash only lighting) shots might be to do some test shots of a color chart at a variety of Kelvin temperatures, pick the one, and use that for all your flash only shots. When you shoot a "fill flash" shot, the ambient light is adding more "blue" ambient light to the total exposure light. And in these cases a different setting such as auto white balance may give you a better start. Different makes of flash have different color temperatures, so you might need to run the tests for each strobe type.
IF you want to change the color temperature of your strobe slightly or considerably, you can buy a Cokin plastic color filter and cut it to size to fit on the front of your strobe. Years ago I did just that for Ikelite 50 strobes which were noticeably bluer than Ikelite's bigger strobes such as their Substrobe 200's and 300's. I was shooting film at that time, and it made pictures shot with the big and little strobes virtually indistinguishable by color cast.
