UW P&S vs. UW DSLR

I have 100+ dives with my used Canon G9/Ikelite/Sea&Sea YS110 single strobe (manual) rig. I have learned a lot AND taken some photos that amaze me.

I shoot a Nikon D80 topside and keep thinking I should shoot it UW, too. I have a line on a used D80 Ikelite housing. I'd need to get a port/dome and lens, as the only lens I have for UW might be my Nikon 16-85 VR.

What surprises (pleasant and unpleasant) might I experience in switching to my D80 underwater?

How important is TTL, which I don't have?

2 strobes vs. single strobe?

Can I use the Nikon 16-85 VR? If so, what port/dome/diopter would be needed?

Thanks for any advice.

Laura

Why Won't you have TTL?

One of the big things you will notice is that the view finder is smaller.

in reguards to the lens look here

http://ikelite.com/web_pages/2port_nikon.html

16-85mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX D 5510.28 • • Vignettes in widest angle setting.

you have to have the 8" dome. Not the best lens IMHO.

If you are used to shooting manual and a single strobe that is a starting point.

Why Won't you have TTL?

One of the big things you will notice is that the view finder is smaller.

 

in reguards to the lens look here

 

http://ikelite.com/web_pages/2port_nikon.html

 

16-85mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX D 5510.28 • • Vignettes in widest angle setting.

 

you have to have the 8" dome. Not the best lens IMHO.

 

If you are used to shooting manual and a single strobe that is a starting point.

I shoot a manual strobe because that is what came with my used G9 set-up. The Sea&Sea YS 110 will not synch TTL with the Ikelite housing, as I understand it. So, I have learned to use the strobe without TTL. (Would TTL make UW photography easier? Does it work well?)

And, I shoot in manual mode, as I learned to manipulate the shutter speed and aperture rather than shoot in aperture priority and use the EV adjustment if I need more or less light on the subject. (I tend to shoot manual topside, as well.)

Using the G9, I generally have not been zooming in on the subject, unless I was shooting in macro. Most of my shots are full body, not face shots, of sealife. What lens would you recommend? If I need to buy a lens and the associated port, I'd rather get something that will serve me well for the long term.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Laura

I don't like your lens for underwater. You should decide to shoot EITHER macro OR wide-angle NOT BOTH. This is the major change from your current setup.

For macro you get to choose the 60MM, 85MM or 105MM. As the water gets clearer you will want the higher magnification because you get more working distance (distance from the front of the lens to the subject) BUT finding and focusing on your subject is more difficult. I personally use the Nikon Af-105-VR almost exclusively but many prefer the 60mm because it is easier. The 85MM is a kind of compromize.

For wide angle you can either use a rectinileaner lns like the 12/24 OR a fisheye like the Sigma 10/17. Most experts prefer the fisheye but it is more dificult to use.

I suggest that you start with macro and wait on wide angle.

Regards

Here is a good reflectance site http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/

see my remarks below

I shoot a manual strobe because that is what came with my used G9 set-up. The Sea&Sea YS 110 will not synch TTL with the Ikelite housing, as I understand it. So, I have learned to use the strobe without TTL. (Would TTL make UW photography easier? Does it work well?)

 

 

Yes ttl is nice

http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/underwat...ography-strobes

http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/ttl-converters

 

And, I shoot in manual mode, as I learned to manipulate the shutter speed and aperture rather than shoot in aperture priority and use the EV adjustment if I need more or less light on the subject. (I tend to shoot manual topside, as well.)

 

Manual is nice sometimes but it takes extra time that you may not have underwater.

 

Using the G9, I generally have not been zooming in on the subject, unless I was shooting in macro. Most of my shots are full body, not face shots, of sealife. What lens would you recommend? If I need to buy a lens and the associated port, I'd rather get something that will serve me well for the long term.

 

In regards to lenses depends on what pictures you want to take.

 

http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/underwat...tography-lenses

 

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

 

Laura

Hi Laura

Not trying to put you off but these sites can explain way more and way better than I can.

My setup

Nikon D90 Ikelite housing 2 ds-160 strobes full ttl 10-17 tokinia, 12-24 tokina, 18-50 nikon, 60mm macro, 105mm macro and ports to match.

you can get a proper strobe cable here

http://ikelite.com/web_pages/sync_cords.html

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For Inon, Sea & Sea Strobes

with Ikelite dSLR Housings

Manual only:

#4118.1

#4118.2

#0134.12

#0136.13

Inon and Sea & Sea strobes

Digital Housing-to-One strobe

Digital Housing-to-Two strobes

Replacement "O" ring at strobe body **

Replacement "O" ring at housing **

These cords connect Sea & Sea and Inon strobes to all Ikelite housings. They provide only manual strobe operation.

We do not offer sync cords for the new six conductor Sea & Sea ettl connector.