Sea and Sea TTL convertor

Will the Sea and Sea TTL convertor work with my Aqautica housing and my inon strobes? i have one 240 and one 220.

and once it is connected can i then switch to manual if i want to?

thanks..

Will the Sea and Sea TTL convertor work with my Aqautica housing and my inon strobes? i have one 240 and one 220.

 

and once it is connected can i then switch to manual if i want to?

thanks..

On my sea & sea housing - there are 2 bulkhead connectors - one for TTL converter and one for manual. They actually have different pinouts - so I believe you will need a different bulkhead connector than the standard 5 pin on your Aquatica. If you have the right bulkhead pinout to be compatible with the TTL converter - it does work with the Inon strobes (240 for sure, as I have 2) and I'm pretty sure the 220 also. And yes - you can switch to manual.

One other thing to know about the TTL converter - doesn't work with the y cable; you need a separate sync cord for each strobe (the TTL converter has two connectors). Or you can run the 240 on TTL sync cord - and slave the 220 with a fiber optic cable (I have done this with 2 240's and works fine)

Alastair I'm using the S&S TTL converter with my D300 and aquatica housing.

I have the 5pin Nikonos bulkhead .

My 240's have their own sync cords from the converter.

It works like a dream.

Hows the D90 compared to your old D70?

D90 - is a completely different animal - a real improvement;

housing is small and compact.

the autofocus is blazing compared to the D70.

and the larger viewfined and LCD is amazing, like a french window compared to the porthole for the D70.

oh and the 105mm VR is awesome..

so basically just bang it in the housing hook up the strobes and off you go? and if i want manual i just trun it off and i get control back or am i stuck then with TTL?

Alastair, inside the housing you will notice a small switchboard, this allows you to alternate between full manual type connectors or TTL compliant ones, the one on the right hand grip side it the TTL compliant connectors, all switches up means you have all 5 pins active, all switch down and its manual only.

Simple procedure, plug the Sea & Sea converter in the right hand side connector, flip all switches up, plug strobes, add water and voila!

As a side note, remember to disconnect and clean the Sync cord plug frequently, Sea & Sea cords have a nasty habit of creating electrolysis (some of the more recent cords have mixed metal ending of what I believe is plated brass plug and aluminum lock ring) and if you leave them in for too long, they will likely fuse and be a major PITA to remove, so daily cleaning and greasing the thread with O-ring lubricant is recommended, while on the subject of lubricant, do keep lubricant to the recommended products, while the one we use is petrol free and is safe to use on pretty much anything, other will bloat the O-ring if not the right type, which in turn will likely end up as a snipped and damaged one causing a potential flood, I just returned from a week on Little Cayman for the Digital Shootout and can report of two cases where this happen, wrong grease on a Nikonos SB-105 sync cord ended up flooding the bulkhead and ditto for a Aqua View finder, the o-ring swelling was so much that the first O-ring was snipped, luckily it’s a dual O-ring design so no flooding occurred. But yeah, it fairly important to stick to recommendations by the manufacturer

Cheers

Alastair, inside the housing you will notice a small switchboard, this allows you to alternate between full manual type connectors or TTL compliant ones, the one on the right hand grip side it the TTL compliant connectors, all switches up means you have all 5 pins active, all switch down and its manual only.

 

Simple procedure, plug the Sea & Sea converter in the right hand side connector, flip all switches up, plug strobes, add water and voila!

 

As a side note, remember to disconnect and clean the Sync cord plug frequently, Sea & Sea cords have a nasty habit of creating electrolysis (some of the more recent cords have mixed metal ending of what I believe is plated brass plug and aluminum lock ring) and if you leave them in for too long, they will likely fuse and be a major PITA to remove, so daily cleaning and greasing the thread with O-ring lubricant is recommended, while on the subject of lubricant, do keep lubricant to the recommended products, while the one we use is petrol free and is safe to use on pretty much anything, other will bloat the O-ring if not the right type, which in turn will likely end up as a snipped and damaged one causing a potential flood, I just returned from a week on Little Cayman for the Digital Shootout and can report of two cases where this happen, wrong grease on a Nikonos SB-105 sync cord ended up flooding the bulkhead and ditto for a Aqua View finder, the o-ring swelling was so much that the first O-ring was snipped, luckily it’s a dual O-ring design so no flooding occurred. But yeah, it fairly important to stick to recommendations by the manufacturer

 

Cheers

Jean,

thanks for the reply...

knew it wasn't quite so straight forward but easy enough.

as always all help gratefully recieived!