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Photography Gear and Technique / Archived topic

7D Custom Settings

Started by andy_g ·

  • 7Posts
  • 7Replies

Read-only discussion

7D Custom Settings

7 posts
  1. Guys

     

    Any recommendations on whether to use the C1-C3 custom settings on the 7D for underwater shooting?

     

    I was thinking along the lines of:

    C1 - Macro : Av , flash on (forcing iso400?) , AWB or FWB

    C2 - Wide Angle : Tv or M , flash disabled, Manual WB

    C3 - Video : as w/a but with ISO fixed at a suitable multiple of 160

     

    I guess the main issue if the flash - using the fibreotic cables I trigger from teh internal strobe so am fixed on iso 400 I think.

     

    btw - does anyone know how to force the internal strobe to fire if you have something connected via the hotshoe?

     

    Cheers

     

    Andy

  2. i think a good way to use the custom settings would be to put one on ttl and one on manual Flash, which makes it easier and quicker to switch in between these modes UW ...

  3. Hi Andy,

    I'm not sure how different it would be with the Hugy. My custom settings are very similar except I use it more to preset the aperture and shutter speed. I shoot 90% manual. These are just my jump settings, I will roll the dials when on a subject.

     

    C1 is W/A Manual, f/8, 1/125th, ISO 200, spot focus

    C2 is macro- Manual, f/16, 1/250, ISO 100

    C3 is video - manual, f/8, 1/60, ISO 160 (with filter)

     

    I'm controlling the strobes electrically so I usually just use the strobe control switch to turn them on/off.

     

    I'm not sure why you think you have to use iso 400. First I've heard of that.

     

    I'll get a chance to give this more work next week and probably adjust as conditions change and I get smarter.

     

    Steve

  4. I also use the custom settings quite a lot.

     

    I use the following and adjust as needed:

     

    C1: MACRO - M, f/16, 1/250, iso100, spot meter (doesn't matter much as I am shooting in manual strobes), Manual AF point, AIServo, flash manual/power dialed way down, AWB, focus set to back button.

    C2: WIDE - M, f/8, 1/80, iso100, spot meter (so I can get an accurate blue background reading), Zone AF, flash manual/power dialed way down, AWB, focus set to back button.

    C3: VIDEO - M, f/8, 1/60, iso160, 30fps, 1920x1080, metering and AF in video is controlled magically by camera so settings don't matter, CWB, focus set to back button and quick view mode.

    Edited by bkkchriss4
  5. I'm not sure why you think you have to use iso 400. First I've heard of that.

     

    I was mis-remembering slightly .. if you use Auto ISO if defaults to 400 as soon as the flash pops up or it detects an external strobe.

    Strange but true.

    If you use manual ISO then you can use what-ever you like :P

  6. I was mis-remembering slightly .. :D

     

    Happens to me all the time... :P

     

    I can't figure out when using Auto ISO would be a good thing when shooting stills. I want to play with it on Video some. It appears to transition smoothly when going from a light to dark exposure. Say swimming into or out of a cave or coral tunnel. In unique circumstances it may make sense for a particular sequence.

     

    Have fun,

    Steve

  7. I can't figure out when using Auto ISO would be a good thing when shooting stills.

     

    I think only when you are in a rush and want to freeze the action with a given depth of field and let the ISO compensate.

    Clearly for macro when the buggers wont run away you hav time to set it all up. I guess it may be useful for pelagic shots though if you haven't had a chance to set up first.

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