Ikelite push buttons "freezing" at depth

Hi Folks,

I’m having an issue with my Ikelite housing at depth and wondered if there are any suggestions that might help.

I’m a technical diver - as defined by diving beyond the standard recreational limits of NDL dives to no deeper than 130’, and would like to be able to shoot at somewhat deeper depths. I do realize the housing is rated to 200’, and so I’ve been working well within that limit. At depths between 140’ and 180’ I find the push buttons on the top of the housing “freeze” or stick. The two buttons I tend to try to make the most use of are the two that control the camera’s top LCD light (it’s a Canon 30D) and the one that allows changes to the ISO setting.

The interesting thing is that once we work our way back to shallower water (80’ or so), the buttons then start working again.

I’ve gone through the Ikelite “book of words” with respect to housing maintenance, but they say the push buttons do not require anything other than a rinse/soak and subsequent operation to maintain them. I always thoroughly rinse and soak the housing and push the buttons a few times (u/w in fresh water) to clear the saltwater after a dive.

Having the top LCD light non-operational at depth is an issue for me – I “wear” a can light on my left hand and have been using it to see what the setting are on the camera (and to be able to make changes), but it is very bright against the clear housing making it almost impossible to see the settings – as well as hold the camera and make changes before the LCD “times out”.

Last year I had this issue during a dive trip to Bonaire where the LCD light push button froze in only 90’ of water – on night dives… Anyway, the housing has been back to Ikelite for service within the past year and the button freezing has continued to be an issue.

Are there any ideas on how to remedy this situation? Despite the statement from Ikelite, is there some maintenance I can do to solve the issue?

Thanks!

Lee

PS: Here's an image of a cloud sponge at one of our local dive sites at 180'

Have you removed & serviced these 2 button controls? A very small amount of fine sediment in the shaft bore can cause buttons to bind up at depth. I've have similar problems on my Nexus housing a couple of times. If cleanliness is not the issue, then the return spring might not be up to the task. Not all springs are created equal. Try changing springs. My next guess would be that the housing is flexing slightly near the controls at greater depths & causing the controls to bind.

One good piece of advice that I got direct from Ikelite when I had a control issue was this: Tighten down the camera in the base by tightening the mounting screw HARD with a large flatblade screwdriver. Good advice that has worked well for me ever since. I think people don't always secure the camera firmly enough and they squirel around a bit, leading to button or knob engagement problems like you describe.

Dave

My Ike housing did much the same after 50m (150) or so - to be fair we took it to 86m (250) one time and the buttons were not at all happy but the water did stay on the outside.

At depth the external pressure is starting to balance the return 'push' of the spring so you are seeing the residual effects of stiction in the control / grease / o-ring, which is why it works fine again shallower.

You could try :-

1: strip and clean the control and replace with the absolute minimum amount of lube.

2: look at fitting two springs in place of the one - this is obviously waaay outside the warranty etc...

To be honest if I were intending these depths on a regular basis then it may be time to look for a metal enclosure that is rated deeper.

Paul C

There is an unbalanced force on the buttons equivalent to the area of the inside diameter of the shaft O ring times the pressure.

I think the Ike shafts are 1/8" diameter so the forces work out at .76 lb at 150 ft, .99 lb at 180 ft and 1.1 lb at 200 ft.

The spring has to hold the button up against this force and also have enough in reserve to be able return the button with a bit of added friction.

I'm guessing Ike have selected this spring fairly closely or all us shallow divers would be complaining that the buttons are too hard to press.

Its definitely going to help the return if the button operation is silky smooth but failing that I would be talking to Ike about slightly uprated springs.

I had issues with my Ikelites on deep wreck dives and that one of the reasons I have moved to Aquatica housings. I didnt like the Ikelite creak and moan when you go past 50m. Aquatica's Factory 90m depth rated with option for 120m depth rating. I know its not helping your current situation but it might be a future solution to your problems.

Regards Mark

Hi Folks,

Thanks for the replies.

Jim, I have not tried cleaning the controls, at least not as much as taking them apart would permit. I simply don’t have the parts (C-clips, specifically) that might be needed to replace those removed. Also, the spring return is an interesting theory – it does make sense. As for the flexibility of the housing, I really hope it isn’t that, because that’s a much more costly fix! Thanks for all your help.

Dave, I already carefully use a flathead screwdriver – I really don’t think the camera is moving. If it was, would it be depth-dependant? Thanks.

Paul, thanks for the comments (particularly confirming the behaviour of the housing at these depths) and suggestions. I will look into servicing the push buttons and while I’m at it, look at the springs.

Balrog, thanks for the additional detail on the spring mechanics. If I end up sending it back to Ikelite, I will ask them about “uprated” springs.

Mark, thanks for the comment. I know exactly what you mean with the “creak and moan” - I’ve listened to it myself too much recently! I know I’m on borrowed time with the Ikelite housing if I want to shoot deep. I was just hoping the Ike would work a little better between 130’ and 180’. If I set the camera up ahead of time (which is something I usually try to do) and then shoot as is, it works fine. I can change my mind, just not the settings!

Thanks again, folks. I very much appreciate the responses.

Lee

For whatever housing you may have I would suggest a complete factory rebuild kit for your spares kit. This includes ALL o-rings, c-clips & sometimes the rubber/vinyl tips for the control arms/shafts. Then if the need arises you're better prepared with the basic parts for servicing any housing o-ring. The creek & moan is housing flexing unfortunately.

For whatever housing you may have I would suggest a complete factory rebuild kit for your spares kit. This includes ALL o-rings, c-clips & sometimes the rubber/vinyl tips for the control arms/shafts. Then if the need arises you're better prepared with the basic parts for servicing any housing o-ring. The creek & moan is housing flexing unfortunately.

Good advice Jcc,

Also, for $100 plus shipping Ikelite will service all of the buttons, replace all of the o-rings in the buttons, check the flash connection and TTL control and pressure test the housing. I'm having my Olympus E-330 housing serviced while they upgrade the front from a 2 port lock to the 4 port lock style. If you read that announcement you'll see the service is only $50 with the conversion.

The total rebuild kit or the "annual" mainenance service is cheaper than the cost of a flooded housing.

Dave