Skip to content

Photography Gear and Technique / Archived topic

Aquatica housing for the 5d2

Started by Captain_Caveman ·

  • 5Posts
  • 5Replies

Read-only discussion

Aquatica housing for the 5d2

5 posts
  1. Anyone else using this housing, do you have any issues with the Live View on and the set button sticking in?

     

     

    I've had the housing for a few weeks, and as soon as I get to any sort of depth, these two buttons stick in. On the surface it's ok, you can feel a bit of friction, but they don't stick. But then with the back off, their free as you like.

     

     

    I see that these two buttons have plastic extender arms on them to relocate the bottons on the back in relation to the actual buttons on the camera and these are seemingly causing friction along their shafts.

     

    It's the only thing I can really see.

     

    Anyone else have any issues?

  2. Absolutely no problems like this with mine - used it a lot over 18 months. Jean at Aquatica will probably chime in with some good advice for you.

  3. PM sent!

  4. D7000 user.

     

    I currently have an issues with two of the north south menu buttons sticking in at depth(60ft). I'm going to completely soak the housing tonight and see if that fixes it. The other 2 push buttons located on the east/west menu work fine and actually "feel" much better so I'm hoping this isn't a big issue.

     

    This was copied/pasted from email traffic I had with support, so if the HTM format is off a little my appologies

     

    As far as the live view lever goes this is what I discovered when I first received my housing and my fix action / modification (minor):

     

     

    1. I used a wax pen and marked the plastic contact points inside the housing(mainly the delrin/plastic ring used to activate the Live view feature and the AE/AF lock lever), but I also marked the #37 release mode selector. I did this to identify the contact points on the camera and any excessive pressure or movement.

     

    2. The AE/AF lock lever did activate(engage with the rear button) but it was way too far back into the housing, about 3-mm of travel. I actually noticed this when I was playing with the lever action and realized the stop gear(triangle) was almost always "UP" or fully engage. I think this also explains why sometime when mounting the rear of the housing it would completely lock up. To fix this all I did was loosen the external thumb lever and moved it forward (clounter clockwise from the base) about 30-40 degrees until everything was level(triangle in line with lever). After this was corrected the lever contact was flush against the AE/AF lock button and only required a little pressure/travel to activate.

     

    3. The dreaded #37 release mode button. The button would go down but I could tell the travel was very excessive and unnecessary(too much force is required at this point). This is why I think it would unlock at the surface but at depth it was just too hard to press down to the fullest possible extent it would go. The contact point was also right on the edge of the button(very close) and only created a small pin head of wax residue when testing. Seeing that I couldn't lengthen this button I removed the plastic protector nub and packed it with a very small rolled up piece of paper towel(imagine a spitball loaded into a plastic drinking straw only about 1/4 the size). This caused the plastic protector nub to extend from the metal rod about 2-3mm longer. This made the button travel just that much easier and would fully activate the release mode with about half the previous pressure/force required. Success!

     

    4. Finally, the live view lever. I instantly noticed that the delrin/plastic knob that physically engages or touches the live view lever was way too tight from the factory. I loosened the steel set screw that is used to secure the plastic knob to the lever and this instantly freed up the lever action. It would now move freely back and forth a lot easier than before. This plastic knob was also not completely screwed onto the steel set screw and stuck out way too far. The wax markings were very deep/wide and I think this ultimately was the root cause for some of these issues. Next I removed the steel set screw and the plastic knob and used a tap and dye set to completely thread the plastic knob all the way through, I then adjusted it on the set screw so it was mounted further away from the housing(IE the plastic black knob was now screwed all the way onto the steel screw and The tip of the set screw now fully penetrated the plastic knob from top to bottom). However, this was still too long and put too much pressure on the back of the camera and the live view lever(note that I did not let the steel screw touch the camera or the live view lever at all. I removed the plastic knob again and used a mild sand paper to sand down the bottom facing edge of the knob. Sanding this edge allowed me to screw the steel set screw deeper into the lever action and away from the camera. I continued to sand down the knob, remount the set screw, and test the lever about 2-3 times before I had it perfect. Minimal wax markings on the west facing edge of the lever only(And no longer all over the body of the camera!), the action is now super smooth with a quick snappy return. I believe I only had to sand off about 2mm on the back of this plastic knob to make it perfect. Again fully threading the plastic delrin knob and securing it the steel lever set screw was an absolute must! Much more secure/steady.

     

    5. The moisture detector….I'm really not sure. Last night it seemed to work fine in the housing when I placed it in and out of my plastic scuba gear dunk tank. No alarms or red lights. I'm going to assume that fresh off the factory floor it may have just needed a break in period. I'm not a big fan of the audible alarm however(It's really loud and scary!!). If the false alarms continue to persist I may keep the detector active but then dampen the noisy buzzer. Also, when the alarm activated I was moving from a deep cold 80' dive environment to a very warm 10' swimming pool. So this temperature shift may have led to the 1st false alarm, but I'm still not sure on the second alarm.With the exception of the moisture detector this housing is 99.999% good to go. Let me know if this is of any help or if you have any questions or concerns about how I fixed these issues. Photos probably would have helped aid my terrible descriptions.

     

    -Andrew

     

    key words ( AD7000 D7000 housing Live View buttons stuck lever not turning off friction autofocus select knob)

    Edited by Drew
  5. I've had this too - the set button on my 5DII housing seems to get stuck at about 50m. From there on down, I start and stop videos by pulling it out instead of pushing it in. These are freshwater dives, so I assume it's not salt build up.

     

    I hardly take any video, so I'm not too worried about it. I'm hoping that when I service the buttons in the next couple of months, this might fix itself. Did you find a solution?

Sea & Sea

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.