D7000 advice

Upgrading to a D7000 rig, looking to kit (ports, gears etc) everything out in one go, so looking for some advice

What I've got: 10.5vr, 10-17, 60d, 105vr, 105d, 1.4x Kenko tc, 2x z220s

1) Any suggestions for a mid range/shark lens? 10-24/12-24? 16-35/17-35? or any others? All things being equal, I'm considering the non DX lenses as I also shoot (sparingly) some full-frame topside, but if the DX lenses are clearly better underwater I will probably go with that.

2) regarding strobes, I am guessing my old z220s won't be able to do S-TTL via fiberoptic. I figure to still use manual flash settings on wideangle but would like to get S-TTL for macro. Since I already have Z220s, would a pair of S2000s complement my setup better than just upgrading to Z240? I'm also contemplating just waiting it out with my 220s - a bit concerned a new batch will come out that makes more sense for video somehow (not that I am into it yet but just in case). Any thoughts here?

3) I currently use sync cords on my old system but intend to switch to optical - is it worth bothering to get the connectors/bulkheads on my new housing if I mostly intend to use Inon (and thus optically triggerable) strobes going forward? I've had horrible experience with faulty sync cords in the past so have been looking forward to switching to optical, but wondering: will I miss having a hardwire at all?

3) I currently use sync cords on my old system but intend to switch to optical - is it worth bothering to get the connectors/bulkheads on my new housing if I mostly intend to use Inon (and thus optically triggerable) strobes going forward?

If it was me personally, I would get the bulkheads on your new housing. If you sell the housing in the future, perhaps others buying your housing would want the bulkheads even if you do not plan on using them. I make that statement as long as it's not prohibitively expensive to put the bulkheads on the housing.

My two cents,

Ellen

If it was me personally, I would get the bulkheads on your new housing. If you sell the housing in the future, perhaps others buying your housing would want the bulkheads even if you do not plan on using them. I make that statement as long as it's not prohibitively expensive to put the bulkheads on the housing.

 

My two cents,

 

Ellen

3.) I agree with Ellen. I've carried a back up electrical cable for 5 years, but never used it.

2.) The 2000s would be fine for Macro. I personally would rather have 2 Z240 or whatever Inon strobe du jour than the 200s and the 2000s. Though a back up 200 might be good (see 3.)).

1.) You don't say what rig & ports you are using now and how close you will get to sharks. I would think the 10-17 or the 10-17 + 1.4 TC would be good for this application. I have a 12-24 with 170mm dome both of which I leave at home. I use the 10-17, 10-17 + 1.4 TC, and can use the Sig. 17-70 all in the same 4-3/4" Bare dome. The 10-70 does reguire a port extension.

Bob

3.) I agree with Ellen. I've carried a back up electrical cable for 5 years, but never used it.

2.) The 2000s would be fine for Macro. I personally would rather have 2 Z240 or whatever Inon strobe du jour than the 200s and the 2000s. Though a back up 200 might be good (see 3.)).

1.) You don't say what rig & ports you are using now and how close you will get to sharks. I would think the 10-17 or the 10-17 + 1.4 TC would be good for this application. I have a 12-24 with 170mm dome both of which I leave at home. I use the 10-17, 10-17 + 1.4 TC, and can use the Sig. 17-70 all in the same 4-3/4" Bare dome. The 10-70 does reguire a port extension.

Bob

Thanks,

Regarding the sync cords it doesnt sound like people miss them as much usage wise? I'll probably hold off and upgrade later if needed if thats the case.

as for my existing system i'll just write off and will just switch to all new system (Nauticam hopefully to arrive in next week or so) rather than getting adapters and etc so its more about what lenses I want to add and what domes/port options/strobes etc.

Absolute cost not a big deal but I'm a big sucker for being efficient, so I just want to get one more mid range lens for underwater and be done with it. Also since i'm getting a fair amount of stuff at once I rather buy all now rather than wait for upgrading.

Any other thoughts on midrange lens on DX? Would anyone feel something missing, on say a shark dive, from a 10-17 + 1.4x TC (both of which I have) setup, to warrant wanting another lens on DX format? Or does that completely satisfy?

If I am not mistaken, using electrical cables means faster recycling time for strobes. Mainly because the pop up flash that is required for optical cables does not recycle as fast as the strobes... the Sea & Sea YS-110a and the Z240's recycle within about a second.... I think it takes much longer for the pop up flash to be ready again. When shooting sharks or anything moving fast, I would much rather go with something that will give me a 2nd chance at a shot a second later...

I am looking at getting both the ikelite bulkhead and the optical bulkhead on my Aquatica D7000 housing. So I have the best of both worlds. I can have Ikelite and Inon strobes connected via an Ikelite sync cord and also have the option for optical fibre.

I currently shoot Ikelite strobes manually with electrical connection which I am happy with now since the ikelite sync cords now have the strain relief ends and no issues with then breaking (touch wood). I have compared my setup with a friends 7D with optical synced Z240's and my friend said that she noticed that I was able to shoot alot more quickly compared to her. I also shoot on single shot mode not continuous. This was on the Ds125's with 1 sec reload from full dump and now I have gone to DS161 which has 1.5sec reload from full dump so that might be putting it on par with the optically fired Z240's.

Just have to see next month when we both dive with the Manta's to get an idea or when I get two of the Inon z240's next year and connect them opitcally with the same housing.

As for a another mid range lens have you thought about the Tokina 35mm macro. I am looking at that as one of my next lens purchase. Its cheap and its a good size for those larger fish portraits.

Regards Mark

I am looking at getting both the ikelite bulkhead and the optical bulkhead on my Aquatica D7000 housing. So I have the best of both worlds. I can have Ikelite and Inon strobes connected via an Ikelite sync cord and also have the option for optical fibre.

 

I currently shoot Ikelite strobes manually with electrical connection which I am happy with now since the ikelite sync cords now have the strain relief ends and no issues with then breaking (touch wood). I have compared my setup with a friends 7D with optical synced Z240's and my friend said that she noticed that I was able to shoot alot more quickly compared to her. I also shoot on single shot mode not continuous. This was on the Ds125's with 1 sec reload from full dump and now I have gone to DS161 which has 1.5sec reload from full dump so that might be putting it on par with the optically fired Z240's.

 

Just have to see next month when we both dive with the Manta's to get an idea or when I get two of the Inon z240's next year and connect them opitcally with the same housing.

 

As for a another mid range lens have you thought about the Tokina 35mm macro. I am looking at that as one of my next lens purchase. Its cheap and its a good size for those larger fish portraits.

 

Regards Mark

I don't think it's the Z240's 1.7 recycle time that would hold up optical use, I think it's the recycle time of the camera popup flash being used to trigger? I know the D7000 is almost 4 seconds with popup flash on a full dump; can't find specs on what a lower power flash takes.

JP

JP,

Page 223/224 in the manual

Menu>Custom Setting>e Bracketing/flash>e3 Flash cntrl for built-in flash>manual

Cheers Mark