What is condensation:
The two - for Photographers - important parameters regarding condensation/fogging are:
1° percentage of humidity in the air inside the housing/camera
2° temperature difference between the inside and the outside the housing
As more dry the air is, as wider the temperature difference can be before condensation/fogging will occur
So:
Eliminating the temperature difference will reduce condensation
Filling the housing (and camera body) with dry air will reduce condensation
Who to?
1° transport and store your camera in a hard/soft cooler, with the camera wrapped in a thick, fluffy towel to protect her from sunlight/heat
2° You may fill the hard cooler with seawater and change this frequently to have it the same temp as the sea
3° load and close your housing inside a airconditioned but not cold room the evening before and/or use dry air from a tank
4. having stiff temp drops below the termocline(s) you have to work with dry air and maybe additionally silica gel bags / moisture munchers
What NOT to do:
1° open the housing on the boat if not absolutely necessary (f.e. no card, battery empty, wrong lens, etc.)
2. leave the camera in a boat rinse tank, she will bang around, hit other cameras and flood sooner or later
3. have the camera banging around your personal cooler/bucket, try to block the camera that she can't move
4° trap edge/border of the silicia gel bag between the housing/o-ring, triple check before you close
5° have the moisture muncher tubes rolling around the housing, they may roll on the wrong place and block a button/function
6° loading the camera with sweaty/wet/humid hands, doing it in a a/c'd room should avoid that
Moisture munchers / silicia gel bags
I personally don't find them very helpful and don't use them anymore. They may work under special circumstances like diving in very cold water,
termocline issues and strong variations of temperature.
I use (and respect) my rules above and never have problems with fogging/condensation.
Chris