Ikelite 7d housing: INON or Ikelite storbe?

Hi!

Please help me, I am not 100% in this questions.

I have ike 7d housing. I just thinking about this problem. I know that TTL only works with ike strobe, but a lot of pro said that TTL is not very good, they like the manual exp. much more.

I also thinking about Inon s2000 and d2000 , but it have only optical connection, and I can not use it with ikelite, couse the housing have not enought space to

allow camera pop-up flash. (maybe ike have a cable bulkhead to inon optical cable?). The other solution maybe the z240, I check that, and it has also optical, and electrical

output. So it means that I can use ike cable (ike bulkhead to inon electrical), but TTL also will not work. If I deciede to buy ikelite ds strobe, than I can operate with TTL or

manual expo. Maybe this is the best way? Maybe another solutions? I heard a lot of good things for the inon s2000, but it has only wireless trigger?

I don t wanna waist money to buy 2 strobes and after a half year, I buy another 2 more, couse the first choice is not enough good for me or I can not operate with it.

Thanks for Your help, and please correct me if I was wrong.

Daniel

ike strobes are great. The ds 51s are about the same size and power as the inons d2000. The s2000 are much smaller.

As you say, that way you can use TTL or manual.

Wired is more reliable than optical.

If you use optically triggered strobes, you have a much slower cycle time, since the on camera flash is so much slower than a good underwater strobe.

I would think it would be easy to rig something up to get enough light into the fiberoptic cables. Probably just duct taping them in front of the flash would work.

ike strobes are great. The ds 51s are about the same size and power as the inons d2000. The s2000 are much smaller.

 

As you say, that way you can use TTL or manual.

 

Wired is more reliable than optical.

 

If you use optically triggered strobes, you have a much slower cycle time, since the on camera flash is so much slower than a good underwater strobe.

 

I would think it would be easy to rig something up to get enough light into the fiberoptic cables. Probably just duct taping them in front of the flash would work.

Thnaks! I got 2 ikelite 125 (old series 2500-5000 serial number), and I can only use it manual mode with my 7d ike housing. I thinking what is the best, just sell it and buy another new 125 ike, what knows eTTL or buy 2 inon. That is my big question...

ike strobes are great. The ds 51s are about the same size and power as the inons d2000. The s2000 are much smaller.

 

As you say, that way you can use TTL or manual.

 

Wired is more reliable than optical.

 

If you use optically triggered strobes, you have a much slower cycle time, since the on camera flash is so much slower than a good underwater strobe.

 

I would think it would be easy to rig something up to get enough light into the fiberoptic cables. Probably just duct taping them in front of the flash would work.

For TTL via optical fiber maybe you have slower strobe recycle on-camera compared to a Z240 say, but running the camera at 1/128 power and strobes in manual you can shoot as fast as the Inon will recycle or until the buffer fills. Ryan has posted some video of this.

Bill

Can you even raise the flash on your camera, when in the housing? I'm pretty sure you cannot.

And that would solve the question.

Personally, TTL works so well, for everything but wide angle, I would not want to invest in a system, or strobes, that limited me to manual only.

Can you even raise the flash on your camera, when in the housing? I'm pretty sure you cannot.

 

And that would solve the question.

 

Personally, TTL works so well, for everything but wide angle, I would not want to invest in a system, or strobes, that limited me to manual only.

Thanks, I also heard that, I should buy min. 2x ike strobe cable. (consumable, easy to spoil). My last question is about that,

125 or 160? The differences are significant? Manybe anybody try both?

I had a 160 main and 125 secondary (the later serial numbers) using the dual cable for a year and think that the claimed power difference might be a bit optimistic. I didn't notice much modelling effect from the different strobe powers; certainly nothing that couldn't be easily overridden by slight re-positioning of the strobes.

Agree with Derway that TTL works well in most situations and, although I shoot mainly manual, is something that I wouldn't want to be without.

The facility for manually setting strobe power direct on the Ike camera housing (with the strobe knobs set to TTL) is particularly useful for WA when strobes are on long arms and not convenient to reach.

The secondary strobe on the dual Ike cable replicates the duration of the primary strobe. I'm not sure but there's a chance that you might only need to buy only one new 160 / 125 and be able to keep one of your existing old series 125s to get full TTL.

I had a 160 main and 125 secondary (the later serial numbers) using the dual cable for a year and think that the claimed power difference might be a bit optimistic. I didn't notice much modelling effect from the different strobe powers; certainly nothing that couldn't be easily overridden by slight re-positioning of the strobes.

 

Agree with Derway that TTL works well in most situations and, although I shoot mainly manual, is something that I wouldn't want to be without.

 

The facility for manually setting strobe power direct on the Ike camera housing (with the strobe knobs set to TTL) is particularly useful for WA when strobes are on long arms and not convenient to reach.

 

The secondary strobe on the dual Ike cable replicates the duration of the primary strobe. I'm not sure but there's a chance that you might only need to buy only one new 160 / 125 and be able to keep one of your existing old series 125s to get full TTL.

Thanks! This description is very useful for me. I will ask ike, what about this 1 new 160 and an old 125 construction. I heared that TTL only good for especially macro.