Ike DSLR Housing Question

Since Ike hopfully brinmgs out a reasonable Priced Housing for my Beloved D60 in February or March, I will be finaly able to hous it and say good bye to my Canon S type Cameras (actually only a S50 left because I flodded my S40 last Summer) or only keep them as Backup.

Now I have some Questions:

1.) I allways fought big fights with the fogging of my WP-DC300, using Silicia Gel Packs and applying "Anti-Fogging-Liquid" to the inner side of the Port before every dive.

My Question is now, since the Ike Housings are also made of "plastic" : How big will the fogging Problems be here?

2.) Are there Ports for my lenses and which ports do I need

For the start I want to use a Canon 50mm Macro and my Sigma 17-35

Later I want to add a Sigma 14mm or a 15mm FE and probably a Canon 100mm Macro

Simon

I never had a fogging problem with my S2 housing. Just don't expect to be able to bring your camera out from an air-conditioned salon onto the dive deck and stick it into the housing though...:-)

Your 50mm and 14mm will be no problem to house. What is the front thread diameter of the Sigma 17-35? If it is 82mm, that may be a problem because #1, that's too big and #2, you'll have a hard time finding a diopter, which you will need with that lens and the Ike housing.

Cheers

James

I never had my Ikelite housing fog.

James:

Yes the Sigma is 82 cm. Why do I deed a diopter? Would i also need it for the 14mm, a 16-35 or a 15mm FE ?

Will I have more luck with a Canon 16-35?

Would a 16-35 or a 14 mm Lens make more sense UW?

Scorpion:

Did you do anything about it? Sicia Gel, Anti Fogging Liquid, Special Handling?

Simon

Hi Simon,

I believe Ike recommends a +4 diopter for that lens to get it to focus inside his dome port. The problem is that when I had a D60 I looked around for an 82mm diopter and couldn't find one. I'm sure they're out there somewhere, I just couldn't find it. Plus, I'm not too sure that lens will slide into Ike's port.

Those other lenses are a better choice, IMO.

I never used any special liquids or products to keep from fogging my Ikelite housing and I dove it in water from 50f all the way to 84f. Just use common sense around air conditioning and in humid environs.

Cheers

James

PS, dontcha wish you bought that UK Germany hous from Eric right about now? ;-)

PS, dontcha wish you bought that UK Germany hous from Eric right about now? ;-)

Yes and No. Of course I would have loved to have my D60 housed allready this summer. But I couldn't afford it right then and the UD$ was much more expensive back then.

When the exchange rates stay or even get lower as they are at the moment until Feb/March the whole new Ike Setup including Ports will be as cheap or even cheaper as the used UK-Germany.

I believe Ike recommends a +4 diopter for that lens to get it to focus inside his dome port. The problem is that when I had a D60 I looked around for an 82mm diopter and couldn't find one. I'm sure they're out there somewhere, I just couldn't find it. Plus, I'm not too sure that lens will slide into Ike's port.

Do I need Diopters for all WA Lenses when I use a Dome Port?

Those other lenses are a better choice, IMO.

What is the Best Choice for UW

-a 16-35 (or the 17-35 if I can house it)

-a 15 mm FE

-a 14 mm

I never used any special liquids or products to keep from fogging my Ikelite housing and I dove it in water from 50f all the way to 84f. Just use common sense around air conditioning and in humid environs.

I never had problems because of a cold camera because i never dived on a Ship with AC. Just when I got into the water with my camera (that was warmer the the water) I started to fog after some time (when the housing cooled down). Normaly having a cool housing / camera should be good because there is less humidity in the cold air inside of the housing. Or am I wrong here?

Simon

What is the Best Choice for UW

-a 16-35 (or the 17-35 if I can house it)

-a 15 mm FE

-a 14 mm

If you want wide, the 15mm FE is the best choice.

If you want more flexibility but a smaller angle of view, try the 16-35. Another option here would be the Canon 17-40L, which is very close to the same size as the Canon 16-35 (a little smaller) and a lot cheaper (1/2 the cost). You give up 1 stop (f/4 vs f/2.8) and 1mm at the wide end, but you were going to do that with the Sigma 17-35 anyway, and you gain 5mm on the tele end of the lens.

The 14mm would be my last choice as a D60 user. I had one on my last trip and didn't really like it very much. It wasn't as wide as I wanted, and it was the first wide prime I'd tried. I've since switched to the 17-40 and will be putting it to it's first real test in February. I thought about adding a 15mm FE before the trip too, but I'd have too many new lenses to use and wouldn't spend enough time with any one lens.

Tom

Normaly having a cool housing / camera should be good because there is less humidity in the cold air inside of the housing. Or am I wrong here?

It true that in cold air from air-con there is usually less humidity so its look sense what you wrote, there are 2 problems with it in the real world:

- In the moment you take out cold equipment into hot environment it will be immediately cover with condensation water from the humidity.

- In boats usually the rooms are not so dry, there is a lot of humidity even in the air-con rooms.

Arnon