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Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique / Archived topic

Triggering an external studio flash

Started by maczek ·

  • 9Posts
  • 9Replies

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Triggering an external studio flash

9 posts
  1. Hi guys!

     

    I own Ikelite 5D Mark II housing and will be doing some pool shoots in near future. I don't have underwater strobes but have studio flash lights. Does anyone of you know if it's possible to trigger an external studio flash from being underwater? I was looking for a sync cord but didn't find anything suitable for that. Anyone has any experience with that? If such sync wire exists, where can I buy one?

     

    Thanks,

    Kris

  2. You need a log sync cord to the surface and connected to a pocket wizard in a waterproof bag - at least that's how I've done it. Its a custom build so you'll need to find someone who can make this up near you.

  3. You may be able to have someone modify the sync cable on the Aquatech Pocketwizard housing to suit the bulkhead on the Ikelite housing, if you want something closer to ready-made.

  4. Are the studio flashes able to shoot as optical slaves? If so, then you can buy a long optical fiber (10m are cheap, around 5-10 euro) and fix it to outside part of the housing and to the studio flash above water. Canon camera´s flash don´t need to be completely up in order to ahoot (nikon do), so that should work. If you don´t want the camera flash to light the model, you need to block the remaining light with a piece of black plastic/tape etc...

  5. All good advice. I think another popular option is to get a 30' Ikelite sync cord and either cut the end and splice it onto a PC Sync cable, or a pocket wizard.

     

    Cheers

    James

  6. Are the studio flashes able to shoot as optical slaves? If so, then you can buy a long optical fiber (10m are cheap, around 5-10 euro) and fix it to outside part of the housing and to the studio flash above water. Canon camera´s flash don´t need to be completely up in order to ahoot (nikon do), so that should work. If you don´t want the camera flash to light the model, you need to block the remaining light with a piece of black plastic/tape etc...

     

    That's when you wish the 5DmkII had a in-built flash!

     

    To further Dave's suggestion IKE are usually pretty generous with space inside their housings, so maybe one of these little fellas might squeeze in somewhere with a hotshoe adaptor of course ... maybe under the mounting tray?

     

    Metz

     

    Sigma

  7. I use a long cord made for me by Ryan at Reef. It has Nikonos at both ends so Ryan has also provided a Nikonos Bulkhead socket spliced to a PC plug. I'm sure he could do the same for you with Ikelite sockets or Ikelite may do it. I keep the transmitting Pocket Wizard on a small light stand next to the pool. No need for a floating Pocket Wizard.

    My experience with slaves in bright sunlight is that they can be erratic. The way I describe is completely reliable.

    Most importantly though be sure to secure your lights solidly and away from the pool edge. All lights must be heavily sandbagged and in addition secured to rigid structures with guy cables, and of course standard outdoor grade extension cords with GFI.

    Edited by loftus
  8. I use a long cord made for me by Ryan at Reef. It has Nikonos at both ends so Ryan has also provided a Nikonos Bulkhead socket spliced to a PC plug. I keep the transmitting Pocket Wizard on a small light stand next to the pool. No need for a floating Pocket Wizard.

    My experience with slaves in bright sunlight is that it can be erratic.

    Most importantly though be sure to secure your lights solidly and away from the pool edge. All lights must be heavily sandbagged and in addition secured to rigid structures with guy cables, and of course standard outdoor grade extension cords with GFI.

     

    "like" :)

  9. That's when you wish the 5DmkII had a in-built flash!

     

     

    OOOOOPSSSS!!! :)

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