5503 Ike dome-shade cut away

I much prefer using the Ikelite 6" domes to the big 8" (except for split levels) but you need to remove the shade of the 5503 dome to prevent cut-off with a Tokina 10-17 @10mm

Here's my solution, just needed to cut away some of the sides of the shade.

I much prefer using the my 5" dome to either of those and you don't have to cut the shade to prevent cut-off with a Tokina 10-17 @10mm

Who makes the 5" dome for Ike please.

Same as I did Panda. Pretty cheap, and seems to work well enough for my ability level. I used to go without the guard entirely, but it got scratched too easily, and on sunny days caused problems.

Otara

Who makes the 5" dome for Ike please.

http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/underwater-...s-5-dome-ports/

http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/underwater-...s-5-dome-ports/

Thanks

.......

Same as I did Panda. Pretty cheap, and seems to work well enough for my ability level. I used to go without the guard entirely, but it got scratched too easily, and on sunny days caused problems.

 

Otara

DIY rules!

Oh yours looks much more elegant btw, I did mine with some snips, its somewhat utilitarian looking.

Otara

Snips! Brave man.

I used a drill, coping saw, jig saw, file then sandpaper. I actually reached for tin snips but thought I would stuff it up.

Apologies Bill. I was trying to buy one of your superior 5" domes but this has solved my problem for now.

Snips! Brave man.

I used a drill, coping saw, jig saw, file then sandpaper. I actually reached for tin snips but thought I would stuff it up.

 

Apologies Bill. I was trying to buy one of your superior 5" domes but this has solved my problem for now.

Hi Panda,

I am sure we would all be interested in knowing how your corners hold up with the Tokina 10-17 and the Ikelite port you modified. Please show sample images when you have some.

I know Bill's dome keeps the corners sharp and Bill's dome has a greater curvature, so I wonder if your modified port will work as well.

Looks like you did a good job on converting the shade. Some may not realize how much work that took.

Barry

www.bareports.com

www.marinekeywords.com

The 5 inch site has comparisons between 6 inch ike and its own on it already. It doesnt work as well, but is a 1/3 of the price, so depends on your budget basically.

http://uwcamerastuff.com/modular_5_dome.htm

(scroll down a bit)

The only thing changed with this mod is being able to keep the shade on so it shouldnt make any difference to corner sharpness or the like?

Otara

Thanks for the interest Dupsbear,

But I haven't modified the port at all, just altered the shade so that I can leave it on.

The port work exactly as it was designed to by Ikelite, who recommends that the shade be removed for this lens.

I have to say it works really well, corners don't seem to be a problem at all.

Will post some pix soon.

Not the best shot to assess corners but this was at f/6.7 1/45th 400iso

D7000 Tokina 10-17 @ 10mm

This one shows the corners a bit better.

Didn't have the shade fitted for this dive, which is a scary prospect on a crowded charter boat and surgey wreck. That's what prompted the above mods.

f/8 1/30th 400iso

I found the scoops in the shade could be fairly easily deepened using a 2 inch grinding wheel. I then reduced the height of the shorter straight edges with a hacksaw and file.

Proper job!

Sorry to take this thread slightly off-topic, but could the Tokina 10-17 mm be used with a 1.4X TC and the longer 5503.5 pictured in the first post? As can be seen, this port is about 1" longer than the 5503, while the teleconverter increases length about 0.75". So the lens will be about 0.25" off from where it would be with the standard configuration. I was wondering if the nodal point will be too far off the optimal distance, and what effect that would have on the quality of the images - e.g. blurry corners, vignetting, etc.

I am shooting the 10-17 in the 5503 port on a canon 40D. I have tested this extensively and I am NOT seeing any cut-off with the standard dome shade. I even attached some clips to the edges of the shade so I could see where any vignetting was starting. Looks like there is still a few mm to spare before any shade would appear on the sides (of course much more margin at the top/bottom). I tested a variety of focal distances and f stops at 10, 17 and a few intermediate focal lenghts.

Any ideas why the standard dome port shade is not showing any vignetting in this configuration?

Thanks

OK. I may have found the answer on another thread where a writer states: "180 degrees on a Nikon and 167 degrees on a Canon at 10mm" (for a fisheye). Could be that the different crop factor of the Canon sensor narrows the view enough that the shade is not a problem.

Any other canon shooters have experience with this set up?

OK. I may have found the answer on another thread where a writer states: "180 degrees on a Nikon and 167 degrees on a Canon at 10mm" (for a fisheye). Could be that the different crop factor of the Canon sensor narrows the view enough that the shade is not a problem.

 

Any other canon shooters have experience with this set up?

I shoot a 7d and get it. Never checked with my 40D.

Otara