Tokina 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 DX - Polarizer?

Hey all

Did a search on here & found nothing on the subject.

I'm wanting to do some split shots next month of my wife in Cabo San Lucas with my new dslr kit.

I was wondering if there were any options to shoot polarized shots with the Tokina 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 DX on a 7D.

If not, how can the same look be done on PS5?

Would prefer a filter as a first choice.

Thanks for any help.

Mark

Hey all

 

Did a search on here & found nothing on the subject.

 

I'm wanting to do some split shots next month of my wife in Cabo San Lucas with my new dslr kit.

 

I was wondering if there were any options to shoot polarized shots with the Tokina 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 DX on a 7D.

 

If not, how can the same look be done on PS5?

 

Would prefer a filter as a first choice.

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Mark

Isn't the light already polarised when it passes through the water? Double polarising would either have no effect or it would stop any light from reaching the lens. Tell me if I'm wrong.

Isn't the light already polarised when it passes through the water. Double polarising would either have no effect or it would stop any light from reaching the lens. Tell me if I'm wrong.

John, I think he's probably talking about polarization (or polarisation if you are British ) for the top half when doing an over/under shot. That's an interesting dilemma. You are right that polarising the underwater portion would just make it very dark and not provide any benefit at all.

You can of course do some post processing with either Lightroom/Aperture/Photoshop using a gradient filter, but nothing that works exactly like a Polarizing filter. I've often wondered if there would be a market for a Cokin/Singh -type wet filter holder system for U/W photography... Best option for the original poster is to shoot as early or late in the day as possible so the above water light is very nice and won't need any type of filter at all.

But, at any rate, probably the best you can do is use a digital gradient filter with one of the tools I mentioned above.

Hey all

 

Did a search on here & found nothing on the subject.

 

I'm wanting to do some split shots next month of my wife in Cabo San Lucas with my new dslr kit.

 

I was wondering if there were any options to shoot polarized shots with the Tokina 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 DX on a 7D.

 

If not, how can the same look be done on PS5?

 

Would prefer a filter as a first choice.

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Mark

Here is what you can do but it will take some trial and error. You will need to use a polarizer on the rear element because the front element sees too wide and is too curved for a solution there. Google Edmund Scientific and search their catalog for optical polarizing film. Actually I'll just do it: http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlinecatalog/...?productid=1912 You can cut pieces small enough to be taped over the entire rear element but the trial and error part comes in to how the film is rotated to be most effective. Now if you want only the topside image polarized while leaving the underwater part un-filtered, you will have more trial and error with the film only covering half of the element. Remember that after the image passes the nodal point, about halfway through the lens (at the aperture) the image flips over so if you want the sky polarized you will have to cover the bottom of the rear element. This gets trickier if you are trying horizontals and verticals. It may be best to set the shot up ahead of time, commit to vert or horiz, try different pieces of the film rotated slightly different from each other until you have the effect you are looking for. Also realize 180 degree fisheyes are too wide to polarize the whole scene so choose the best look.

Don't ultra-wide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) lenses already polarise the light? If you want to cut the harshness of the light, maybe you would do better to use a 0.3 or 0.6 ND filter. Besides, a polariser on an ultra-wide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) could make the uneven darkness/lightness in the sky worse. My understanding of all this is based on topside shots, but I would think that it is true for the upper part of an over/under shot as well.