Arm length and buoyancy - Oy Vei!

I'm the proud owner of an Aquatica AD7000 for my Nikon D7000. I have some Sea&Sea arms from my previous setup but want something with better buoyancy now. I'm overwhelmed!

I need something to help offset the weight of the housing and am trying to figure out the best approach - either ULCS arms with floats or their buoyancy arms. Any preference one way or another?

I assume the best way to figure out how much I need is to put the camera in the housing and put into a bucket of water using a scale to 'weigh' in the bucket and see how much I need to offset. Since I'm a small woman, the closer to neutrally buoyant, the more likely I am to be a happy diver. Is there a chart or way to determine the amount of buoyancy required in the arms without doing this in water weight test?

Finally - what is the most common arm length? I'll primarily use the Tokina 10-17fisheye and a 60mm macro. I realize I'll want different arms for each, so this is really aimed at the Tokina (or do you buy arm sizes now that will be compatible with the macro lens too?)

I appreciate the input, I've always just swagged it but before I put down the money for 10 different sizes of arms and types, I wanted to hear recommendations. I've bought plenty of dive gear without getting advice; got a closet full of that junk now!

Kristen

Kristen,

There are a couple of past discussion on the strobe length subject. One is here

There is a fair amount of variation because techniques differ. I like the 5 and 8 combination. I can go wide when I need to, and can use only the 5 if shooting macro. It also tucks away nicely when on the camera table. I like the ability to bring the strobes in closer to the camera as the subject distance gets closer.

My best answer is try the weight in the pool. You want to consider the balance too, not just the weight. Depending on the port, you can get a nose heavy situation that can hurt your wrist after a while. Where you position the arms fore and aft will affect the balance.

Have fun,

Steve

Steve,

Thanks for the reply. I read that thread but it was old enough that it didn't offer much advice about the ulcs float arms vs those normal arms with the add on floats. I am hoping to make an educated decision before buying rather than buying 50 sizes and combos! Thanks

I have both Kristen,

I tend to use the ULCS with the Stix foam more often. A little more versatile, you can change the bouyancy easily when needed. The bouyancy arms look cleaner and might be my choice if I was diving in kelp all the time. I actually carry two sets of 5 in ams with me. One with foam and one without, I put the foam arms on with the macro setup and use the bare arms with the big dome. Just as easy to swap them out if you need to, I just had the extras.

Every system is a little different so it pays to check your specific setup.

Cheers,

Steve

I second Steve's comments. I use ULCS regular arms and STIX floats as well. Tonight, I went on the Kona black water dive and needed more dive lights and more lift. So I added more floats to my arms and it all went perfectly in this area.

How do the stix floats attach to the arm? It's not immediately clear from the photos I have seen if it was slide on or pops into the holes on the arms

The regular arms with floats is more economical.

Do the floats allow arms to be more buoyant than a comparable ulcs float arm?

They just slide on. The internal piece is removed, you slide it on then the internal piece is replaced. Easy.

Per the websites;

The Jumbo Stix package of four floats provides 1.7 lbs of lift

The Large Stix floats package of four provides 14 oz.

The original ULCS 8" bouyancy arm is neutral with clamps

the newer 2" dia. 8" long bouyancy arm provides 4.5 oz

I'm guessing the measurements are in fresh water.

HTH,

Steve