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Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique / Archived topic

Lighting Decisions - strobes and focus lights

Started by gotgills ·

  • 8Posts
  • 8Replies

Read-only discussion

Lighting Decisions - strobes and focus lights

8 posts
  1. Hi all,

     

    I recently got setup with a D7000 setup in an aquatica housing. I already have one YS-110a strobe, now I'm trying to decide how best to finish the kit.

     

    I am looking at a L&M Sola 600 focus light and different strobe options. Currently I only have a Tokina 10-17mm setup for U/W use but plan to get a macro lens as part of the kit very very soon.

     

    Option 1: Sell the YS-110a and get two YS-250s

    Option 2: Buy another YS-110a

    Option 3: Buy one Inon Z-240 and use my current YS-110a

    Option 4: Buy two Inon Z-240s and sell YS-110a

     

    All of these options are more affordable if I dont get a focus light right now, which begs the question, how important is that? Is it worth buying the Sola and getting only one more strobe right now (like another YS-110 or Z-240) or are two better strobes more important?

     

    I have read plenty of forum discussions on all these different pieces of gear, but I haven't seen a really clear decision made on wether the Inons and YS-250s are about the same or if one really is worth the extra money and weight?

     

    Thanks

    K

  2. Hi K,

    Easy choice for me. I'd pick up another 110A and the focus light if I was you. The 240s compare more closely to the 110s than the much bigger YS250s. Just make sure you use the diffusers on your 110s if you're shooting the 10-17.

     

    There are a couple of billion images you can make with one strobe and they will look great. The two strobes will just give you more options, especially lighting for the W/A. The main advantage of the focus light will be when you're shooting macro. If you plan on any night diving it's a must. You can get away with using the aiming lights on your 110a but that forces you to have your strobes in a position that may not be the best for lighting your subject. My jump settings strobe position are with them pointing straight ahead with the beams crossing in front of the subject. If you use the aiming lights to get a focus you end up lighting a bunch of the water column, increasing backscatter.

     

    The 250's are great strobes if you need to pump the light. Published Guide number is 32 vs 24 for the 240 and 22 for the 110a. The 250s are also a lot of fun to use on fish faces because the recycle time is very short when not used at full power. Recylce time is the major difference I have found between the 250's and the 110's (I have the older YS-110s). In practise I tend to be at 1/4 or 1/2 power on the 250s which would compare to almost full power on the 110. You get to decide if they additional cost and added weight to carry around is worth it.

     

    One other note the 110a and 240 both do optical TTL out of the box while the YS 250 does not.

     

    Have fun,

    Steve

  3. From experience, two matched strobes far out weight screwing around with mixed sets!

    Then decide on make, model and serial number.

    We have moved from Ike to Inon, but your own expertise far out weights the variance in brands!

    Every thing you are considering are quality products.

  4. Steve,

     

    Thanks for the response. Would you say a quality focus light is of equal importance as a good strobe?

     

    The big advantages of the 250s as I see it is the recycle time compared to the 110s. If the Inons are more similar to the 110s than the 250s, then I wont keep considering them because I agree with okuma that a same set is better than mixed set.

     

    Thanks

    K

  5. Thanks for the response. Would you say a quality focus light is of equal importance as a good strobe?

     

    It depends on what you plan to shoot I guess. I don't even put my focus light on if I'm shooting W/A unless I'm going to be in a wreck, cave or other dark place. If you're talking about macro with the 60mm or the 105/100 type lens, then a focus light is very nice to have.

     

    Would I buy a focus light before I bought a second strobe?

     

    Doing a lot of night dives? yes

    Shooting mainly wide angle? no

    Love to shoot fish faces? yes

    Going on a couple of 2 week liveaboard trips this year? I'd get the 2nd strobe so I had a backup. Of course, if I could afford a couple of 2 week trips I'd be rich and able to get both. :)

     

    HTH,

    Steve

  6. Well I just ordered the YS-110a to have a full set. I work for a dealer so I can save a few bucks on that.

     

    So thoughts on the Sola 600? I am attracted to the red light feature of it for night dives, but damn is it pricey

  7. Having a really nice focus light is a luxury. I have one and I love it but the reality is I could also focus with a cheap light.

    Like Steve I rarely put on a focus light for wide work. If you have the extra cash go for it. If not buy a less expensive light.

    Just my two cents.

  8. We don't use a focus light (mini Hartenberger) for W/a and selectively for 60 mm day time macro.

    As a full time back up, all of our Inons have an internal spot light.

    Unless you have reached the position that you have all your U/W camera gear, I would consider the Solas a non-mandatory luxury. Once the beam leaves the light, there in no difference in a $100 and a $600 beam!

Nauticam

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