The background light is controlled by the shutter speed. The foreground light is controlled by the strobes. Strobes are most effective around 1-2 feet away maximum and absolutely ineffictive beyond 6 feet.
TTL is set based on the way the camera meters the light. It would be valuable to know how the d-300 was set although I don't think it'll matter
First I believe that you really can't take this picture effectively.
You could get close enough to the diver to have him lit by the strobes and you could increase the shutter speed so that the sun wouldn't overexpose and you could have the sun be partially blocked by the diver so TTL would work BUT then the coral would be in the picture.
Or
You could get close enough to the coral and set your strobes to manual so that the coral was lit and you could position youself so that the diver blocked the sun and you could increase shutter speed so that the sun wasn't blown out BUT then the diver wouldn't be lit.
In fact the only way I know how to successfully light two subjects as far apart as this is with a slave strobe (hand-held by an assistant) lighting the diver while the camera strobes light the coral.
What you need to do is get the diver within the strobe range of one strobe on the camera at the same time the coral is in the strobe range of the other strobe, place yourself so that the diver or the coral blocks the sun, and increase shutter speed. This will give you a halo effect from the sun. In this case set the d-300 so that it meters the center where the diver and/or the coral is or use manual for the strobes.
However if this shot was in RAW you could make 3 Raw adjustments, one for the coral, one for the diver and one for the background, then layer the three results and mask out what is not desired.