Which lens for Cocos video on a crop frame camera?

Hi folks,

I've been reading in some other threads that some don't like the Tokina 10-17 for video so I thought I'd test my old 10-22. I got in the pool today with the recommended 40mm extension and the NX fisheye dome attached to my 7d Nauticam housing. Center of the frame sharpness was OK but the corners went away pretty badly. I was shooting at 5.6 and now I'm thinking I should have been up around f/11. Does anyone know the sweet spot for that lens?

I've got the Tokina 10-17mm, the Canon 17-40mm L and the 10-22 I can use. For shooting stills I'm clear that the 10-17 is my prefered choice. I'm wondering which lens you would recommend for video. I have the sequence in my head with a school of Hammers sweeping into frame and I'm wondering if a rectilinear, even with crappy corners, would be the better choice. The other option I'm thinking about is rolling to 15 or so on the 10-17.

Two weeks before I leave so I'd appreciate your help and thoughts.

Cheers,

Steve

I used to shoot in an Ikelite and they recommend a +2 dioptre to sharpen the corners of the 10-22, which certainly does the job as long as you don't open it up fully as you suggest..

Have fun in Cocos - I'm going there myself in a month

Hi folks,

I've been reading in some other threads that some don't like the Tokina 10-17 for video so I thought I'd test my old 10-22. I got in the pool today with the recommended 40mm extension and the NX fisheye dome attached to my 7d Nauticam housing. Center of the frame sharpness was OK but the corners went away pretty badly. I was shooting at 5.6 and now I'm thinking I should have been up around f/11. Does anyone know the sweet spot for that lens?

 

I've got the Tokina 10-17mm, the Canon 17-40mm L and the 10-22 I can use. For shooting stills I'm clear that the 10-17 is my prefered choice. I'm wondering which lens you would recommend for video. I have the sequence in my head with a school of Hammers sweeping into frame and I'm wondering if a rectilinear, even with crappy corners, would be the better choice. The other option I'm thinking about is rolling to 15 or so on the 10-17.

 

Two weeks before I leave so I'd appreciate your help and thoughts.

 

Cheers,

Steve

Hi Steve,

I've been shooting 10-22 a lot lately and getting very sharp images. I'm shooting it behind the Zen 230mm with a 40mm extension (sometimes a 50mm) with no diopter. Here are a couple of images from the digital shootout that I took of people with their gear, one at 22mm and one at 10mm. The second image is not a great example for corners, but I don't have a lot where I shot at 10mm with wide open f-stop.

Canon 10-22mm at 22mm, f/4.5, 7D in a Nauticam Housing with Zen 230mm Dome

1:1 zoom of the above shot, Canon 10-22mm at 22mm, f/4.5, 7D in a Nauticam Housing with Zen 230mm Dome

Canon 10-22mm at 22mm, f/3.5, 7D in a Nauticam Housing with Zen 230mm Dome

1:1 zoom of the above shot, Canon 10-22mm at 22mm, f/3.5, 7D in a Nauticam Housing with Zen 230mm Dome

Take me to Cocos with you and we can discuss it some more...

Cheers,

Cp

It just so happens that a gal from the trip Steve W. is going on had to drop out. There is one opening at a greatly reduced price for any female who may want to join up.

Steve

Chris would have a hard time passing for a lady, but it would make for an interesting trip report.

Thanks for the info Will, I'll try the +2.

Hey Chris,

Does Nauticam recommend a +2 with the 40mm extension and the 8.5 Nauticam dome?

Cheers,

Steve

Hi Steve,

I personally be sticking with the Tokina 10-17mm so you have both your stills and video covered. I think you would most likely have to zoom in for the Hammers with the Tokina as they wont be getting very close and justified to be shooting them with 10mm on the video. More than likely you be shooting at around 12-15mm as you will have the small hammers and alot of water with 10mm.

I can imagine a sequence starting at 17mm as the school approaches and slowly and smoothly zoom out as the get closer and closer until your at 10mm and they are rubbing themselves against your dome. But this just might be wishful thinking.

Regards Mark

I can imagine a sequence starting at 17mm as the school approaches and slowly and smoothly zoom out as the get closer and closer until your at 10mm and they are rubbing themselves against your dome. But this just might be wishful thinking.

Thanks Mark,

I'm defintely bringing the Tokina along as my primary. I was just wondering what the best rectilinear option would be for me. I like you're "wishful thinking"

Chris would have a hard time passing for a lady, but it would make for an interesting trip report.

 

Thanks for the info Will, I'll try the +2.

 

Hey Chris,

Does Nauticam recommend a +2 with the 40mm extension and the 8.5 Nauticam dome?

 

Cheers,

Steve

Hey, if it's a free spot, I'll stop by Key West and pick up a new ensemble to wear...

A +2 diopter would be an at-your-discretion call. Your corners should get sharper but you'd get a bit more pincushion distortion and reduced fov. No harm in trying it especially if you already have the diopter.

Cheers,

Cp

Did a little test with the diopter on the 10-22 and I have to say I don't see a big difference in the corners. First one is with the S&S NX Fisheye dome, 10-22mm on the Nauticam 7D housing.

ISO 320, f/8, 1/60th, Second one is same set up with the addition of the B&W +2; ISO 160, f/8, 1/60th

Here is a roughly 1:1 crop of the bottom left corner, no diopter, then with the +2

The pincushion distortion you describe is very apparent. The angle that I took the shot probably makes it look worse.

Sorry for the different exposures, it's monsoon season here in the desert and I was ducking in the pool between thunderstorms.

I think I'm leaving the Tokina on. Remember folks, you'll likely get different results with a different dome.

Cheers,

Steve

I'm sort of in the same situation. Basically I'm a super-macro shooter wanting to shoot some seascape videos for educational purposes. Jack Connick brought it to my attention that some divers are having fun with wide angle macro-WAM using the Tokina 10-17 with a Kenko 1.4 behind a compact Zen 100 dome. Basically this allows for some creative WAM shots, plus also allows for a less extreme wide angle for general video shots with seascape and large fish since the Tokina will be converted to a 14-24mm zoom, still a FE perspective but maybe closer to the 10-22 coverage and you still have the compactness of the Zen 100 mini-dome. In addition, I can use the Kenko 1.4 and 20mm locking extension with the Canon 100mm USM non-IS macro (been told the new IS has focusing issues with the 1.4 TC?) so you have a nice super-macro set-up too. I don't have first hand experience on how all this works, but really good folks in these forums who have recommended it. Anyone who has links to their work using this rig, I'd love to see. Thanks.