HeinrichsWeikamp OEM TTL converter for Nikon

Hello,

i am a end user of i-ttl oem board for my nikon D80 in Patima housing, i have two strobes inon z-240, one type 2 and another type 3, and the ttl does not work at all!!!!, i did all the test, and I was concerned to see consistency, and checked the site that says it is compatible.

After questioning the manufacturer, and i have the invoice and the money transfer evidence, i have recieved this e-mail:

"Hello Rui,

we do not sell the OEM boards to end users. Just for that reason. Please contact Michael Finger, www.mike-dive.de if problems go on with this.

with kind regards,

Christian Weikamp

"

So, is possible to someone help me on this question?

kind regards

Rui Bernardo

sounds like you don't have the advanced canceled circuit turned off

look at: http://www.reefphoto.com/tt/index.php?acti...b&article=7

sounds like you don't have the advanced canceled circuit turned off

 

look at: http://www.reefphoto.com/tt/index.php?acti...b&article=7

thank you for your reply,

i did try in both ways..., it doesn't work and already read that article...

i realy think that the oem board is not compatible...

Is the battery for the TTL working?

Also it could be how your bulkhead on your housing is configured. For example on Subal housings the bulkhead has two different configurations. One for TTL and one for Manual.

Another thing to look at is how your hot shoe is wired.

is the battery for the ttl working?

It's new, CR2032, 3v

Do you have the manual off the OEM board?

Check out all the connections, from camera to H-TTL and back to your nikonos 5 connections.

Yes, i do have the manual, i check all the connections, one guy from HeinrichsWeikamp, (Manfred Priest) told me to check all the connections, i have a diagram of the connections and its all ok.

the thing is, if i connect only one strobe (type 3) it works, and i try in two bulkheads, as soon as i connect the strobe type 2, the ttl stop working.

i have another housing, a subal nd300 with a different board (MKIII) and the same strobe works just fine!, but with the board MKI don't work and i do not understand what i am doing wrong...

kind regards

RB

Rui,

did you contact Mike Finger, as suggested? Normally, he should be able to help. And if there are language problems, I can (try to...) translate.

Regards from Germany,

Joerg

i send an e-mail today, asking if there are any link in english, so i can try to read in the site...

i do not know read or speak germam...

but problably, and like HeinrichsWeikamp did not help me, i do have to do something, i will try to send an e-mail to Mike Finger...

thank you for your help

kind regards

RB

Hello,

 

i am a end user of i-ttl oem board for my nikon D80 in Patima housing, i have two strobes inon z-240, one type 2 and another type 3, and the ttl does not work at all!!!!, i did all the test, and I was concerned to see consistency, and checked the site that says it is compatible.

 

After questioning the manufacturer, and i have the invoice and the money transfer evidence, i have recieved this e-mail:

 

"Hello Rui,

 

we do not sell the OEM boards to end users. Just for that reason. Please contact Michael Finger, www.mike-dive.de if problems go on with this.

 

with kind regards,

Christian Weikamp

 

"

 

So, is possible to someone help me on this question?

 

kind regards

 

Rui Bernardo

Hi Rui,

I am using the OEM converter Mk. 1 with the D7000 and before used it with the D80. It works just fine with both cameras and two Z 240s using a Y-cable. Check if your cables are correctly connected. You need ground, trigger and quench between the camera and the board (pin 5 = ground, 1 = trigger, 4 = quench) and the board and the strobe (G, T, Q). Also check that the little potentiometer on the board is not in M = manual position! The board should be OK if the little green LED is flashing from time to time. I once fried one board with one drop of water. HM replaced it free of charge, which I think is a great service.

Best regards,

Wolfram

www.reefcolors.com

Hi Rui,

I am using the OEM converter Mk. 1 with the D7000 and before used it with the D80. It works just fine with both cameras and two Z 240s using a Y-cable. Check if your cables are correctly connected. You need ground, trigger and quench between the camera and the board (pin 5 = ground, 1 = trigger, 4 = quench) and the board and the strobe (G, T, Q). Also check that the little potentiometer on the board is not in M = manual position! The board should be OK if the little green LED is flashing from time to time. I once fried one board with one drop of water. HM replaced it free of charge, which I think is a great service.

 

Best regards,

Wolfram

 

www.reefcolors.com

Hello,

let me tell you, you are a luky guy!...., my board works fine with two inon z-240 type 3, but does not work with two inon's z-240 (type 2+type 3) and the answer that i had from "HM" was that one above........

i think that i will replace my ttl system for optical, for sure more reliable then HeinrichsWeikamp OEM TTL converter... (not need assistance from the manufacturer)

thanks any way....

Kind regards

RB

Another question Wolfram,

where did you bought your board?

Kind regards

RB

Another question Wolfram,

 

where did you bought your board?

 

Kind regards

 

RB

Hallo Rui,

I bought mine about 5 years ago directly from HW. I am using two type 2 Z-240s, the type shouldn't matter. Do you use a Y-cable? Another test: if your flashes are off or the board is not connected you should see in the viewer the green flash symbol flashing. After switching on one or both of the flashes the flash symbol is on continuously. This tells you that the camera recognizes a TTL flash. If not, something is broken.

Best regards,

Wolfram

Hallo Rui,

I bought mine about 5 years ago directly from HW. I am using two type 2 Z-240s, the type shouldn't matter. Do you use a Y-cable? Another test: if your flashes are off or the board is not connected you should see in the viewer the green flash symbol flashing. After switching on one or both of the flashes the flash symbol is on continuously. This tells you that the camera recognizes a TTL flash. If not, something is broken.

 

Best regards,

Wolfram

Hello again Wolfram,

i do not use a Y cable, my housing (Patima) have two bulkheads, i use two simple cable, but i also have a Y cable, and i did not had that test, but i will do it...

let me see if i understand what you are saying..., if i had my strobe not connected to the board, and then i connect them (one or boht?) i shoulf see a green light flashing? the light i see is a red one flashing, not green

even when i replace the batery,a few days ago, the red light flashes for a second or so.., but its red not green. Is this a sign of someting broken?

i am very grateful for the help

Kind regards

RB

Hello again Wolfram,

i do not use a Y cable, my housing (Patima) have two bulkheads, i use two simple cable, but i also have a Y cable, and i did not had that test, but i will do it...

 

let me see if i understand what you are saying..., if i had my strobe not connected to the board, and then i connect them (one or boht?) i shoulf see a green light flashing? the light i see is a red one flashing, not green

even when i replace the batery,a few days ago, the red light flashes for a second or so.., but its red not green. Is this a sign of someting broken?

 

i am very grateful for the help

 

Kind regards

 

RB

Hallo Rui,

sorry for the confusion. I am talking about the camera, not the HW board. The D7000 shows a blinking flash icon if the camera suggests to use a flash (far right hand side in the viewer). The D80 is similar, but since I sold my D80s I can't check. If a flash (internal or external) is switched on, the flash icon stops blinking. If it stops blinking I get TTL, as long it is blinking the flash is triggered but no TTL.

Best regards,

Wolfram