NX3D1¨.. is there any wideangle conversion lenses?

Seducted by Eric's very interesting results about a year ago and the new 3D-camcorders that has been revealed lately, I am in the process of figuring out if I should go for a 3D underwater camcorder.

Since options for a housing is rather few and mostly very expensive, I am ready to throw myself into a homebuild project... time will tell if I succed but before the first drawings arrives at the table, I have some questions to some of you experienced videoguys, out there!

Being interested in the new NX3D1 from Sony, my biggest concerns are the small interaxcial distance of 31mm between the lenses. If they even excist, what lenses would you put in front of this camera to make it as wide as possible?

Googling for possible solutions I found this for the Panasonic AG-3DA1: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/7435...it_3D_Wide.html

If I just could find lenses small enough to add similar abilities to the NX3D1 I will be one big step closer to decide which camcorder to get for my project.

Another concern for choosing the NX3D1 is the controlling of important functions like focus, white balance, etc., that seems to be nailed to the touch-panel which will be very difficult to handle in an underwaterhousing, with less it's posible to get some kind of wired remotecontrol with "real bottons" that can be wired out to handles with piezo-contacts. Any sugestions here will be very appreciated as well!

Finally my third concern on the NX3D1 is the possibility of connecting an external monitor since it will be really hard and unergonomic to use the onboard touch-panel.

My second choice for a 3D-underwater camcorder is getting 2 x Sony HDR-CX560 controlled by a LANC-controller from http://www.digi-dat.de/produkte/index_eng.html#stefraLANC

Seems much more easy to fit to an underwaterhousing since LANC-controller and conversionlenses is already available.... BUT... it do seems to be behind the NX3D1 in recording quality and will under any circumstances also be a bigger and more heavy setup than the NX3D1.

Excuse me if I am wrong in anything above. I have never held any of the cameras mentioned above in my own hands... just know what I have been able to see and read..... and thank you very much in advance for answers and suggestions to overcome the issues I mentioned as well.

Kim Meineche / www.3Dphotography.dk

Hi Kim

I have been using the Sony TD 10 for a while now. The consumer version of the NX3D1. These two are practically identical 3D camcorders but the 3D1 has XLR feature and some more 3D depth control. Like left/right sensor display and convergence. These are fixed side by side twin lens twin sensor 3D camcorders. nice and compact. The angle of view is fairly standard and I suspect it is limited to not being able to close focus. The TD10 struggles with 3D if it is less than 1.5 from the subject. Manual 3D depth adjustment will not work. your eyes will have to squint to see the image and it hurts for some people. there is a front wheel and assign button so not all control is via the screen. for scenic shots the TD10 will produce a flat "cardboard" like 3D of distant objects. This make sense as for side by side setup the interaxial distance would have to be more than a meter apart for this kind of scene. For 2m to 10m to 30m the TD10 auto 3D mode is spot on.

Not sure how a wide angle lens like a Zunow converter will work. The one for AG3D A1 is specificall for the 3D Pany. These lenses will need to be matching in every way otherwise the slight disparity will cause bad 3D. Another problem is the interaxial distance the lenses may not be enough for two converters. It would good if someone who has tried and let us know the results.

The Sony CX560 has no Genlock or any Lanc to sync two cameras so even if you get a third party sync circuit method the two camcorders will drift after switching on for couple of minutes....if the camcorder is not design to genlock sync then it is doom to fail.... yes you get 3D of sorts but the disparity will show up and no amount of post will fix this. May be okay for small 3D footage like for the web but not good if you watch it on a big 3D TV.

The only reasonably compact but still very expensive solution is two XF 105 camcorders. this camcorder has a Genlock feature and also Optical axis adjustment for the zoom lens. This allows two genlocked XF105 to zero in on a object and sync both lenses. The problem is how to house these camcorders and 3D rig? side by side or beamsplitter the housing will be bulky. I am working on a housing for this but progress is slow. I think before I finish Sony or Panasonic or canon will have a true close focus 3D camcorder developed. 3D stereoscopy is fascinating and additive especially if you get good results. I will update my progress soon.

Cheers

David

Hi David!

Do you mean that the NX3D1 will not focus closer than 80cm due to it's technical limitations or do you mean it is because of the mathmatics of 3D? With an interaxcial distance of 31mm and optical standard conditions like a 35mm camera, it makes sense to me with the 80cm for the closest focusdistance to keep a good and not too converged 3D-effect, due to the rule of 1/30 (Which mean that a dual camera setup with about eye-distance (65mm) between the lenses (Interaxcial distiance) will focus from about 2meters). With x 0,45 wideangle conversion lenses (If any exis???t) you will have optical conditions similar to about 16mm (20mm underwater) which in my head means about 45-60cm as the closest focus to keep a suitable convergence.... please correct me if I'm wrong.. I am an absolute beginner in videorecording and just take if for granted that a camcorder focusing like a dSLR camera, etc....!

If I go back to Erics 2 x CX550 project, it seems to be a succes, both optical and synchronichally (Even I know we only see the pictures on a rather small screen). Since the CX560 is the next generation of the CX550 I can't see why it shouldn't be possible to synchronize such two cameras with the LANC-controller from http://www.digi-dat.de/produkte/index_eng.html#stefraLANC

(I don't now much about the techniques here, but couldn't there be other ways to make it work than with the Genlock technique?).

I am very courious about your project, David! And even Sony, Canon or Panasonic will make an available solution before you, you will never get the feeling of homemade satisfaction when you just go an buy a camera, ready to use! :-)

Cheers from Kim! :-)

Hi Kim

 

I have been using the Sony TD 10 for a while now. The consumer version of the NX3D1. These two are practically identical 3D camcorders but the 3D1 has XLR feature and some more 3D depth control. Like left/right sensor display and convergence. These are fixed side by side twin lens twin sensor 3D camcorders. nice and compact. The angle of view is fairly standard and I suspect it is limited to not being able to close focus. The TD10 struggles with 3D if it is less than 1.5 from the subject. Manual 3D depth adjustment will not work. your eyes will have to squint to see the image and it hurts for some people. there is a front wheel and assign button so not all control is via the screen. for scenic shots the TD10 will produce a flat "cardboard" like 3D of distant objects. This make sense as for side by side setup the interaxial distance would have to be more than a meter apart for this kind of scene. For 2m to 10m to 30m the TD10 auto 3D mode is spot on.

 

Not sure how a wide angle lens like a Zunow converter will work. The one for AG3D A1 is specificall for the 3D Pany. These lenses will need to be matching in every way otherwise the slight disparity will cause bad 3D. Another problem is the interaxial distance the lenses may not be enough for two converters. It would good if someone who has tried and let us know the results.

 

The Sony CX560 has no Genlock or any Lanc to sync two cameras so even if you get a third party sync circuit method the two camcorders will drift after switching on for couple of minutes....if the camcorder is not design to genlock sync then it is doom to fail.... yes you get 3D of sorts but the disparity will show up and no amount of post will fix this. May be okay for small 3D footage like for the web but not good if you watch it on a big 3D TV.

 

The only reasonably compact but still very expensive solution is two XF 105 camcorders. this camcorder has a Genlock feature and also Optical axis adjustment for the zoom lens. This allows two genlocked XF105 to zero in on a object and sync both lenses. The problem is how to house these camcorders and 3D rig? side by side or beamsplitter the housing will be bulky. I am working on a housing for this but progress is slow. I think before I finish Sony or Panasonic or canon will have a true close focus 3D camcorder developed. 3D stereoscopy is fascinating and additive especially if you get good results. I will update my progress soon.

 

Cheers

 

David

Hi David!

 

Do you mean that the NX3D1 will not focus closer than 80cm due to it's technical limitations or do you mean it is because of the mathmatics of 3D? With an interaxcial distance of 31mm and optical standard conditions like a 35mm camera, it makes sense to me with the 80cm for the closest focusdistance to keep a good and not too converged 3D-effect, due to the rule of 1/30 (Which mean that a dual camera setup with about eye-distance (65mm) between the lenses (Interaxcial distiance) will focus from about 2meters). With x 0,45 wideangle conversion lenses (If any exis???t) you will have optical conditions similar to about 16mm (20mm underwater) which in my head means about 45-60cm as the closest focus to keep a suitable convergence.... please correct me if I'm wrong.. I am an absolute beginner in videorecording and just take if for granted that a camcorder focusing like a dSLR camera, etc....!

 

If I go back to Erics 2 x CX550 project, it seems to be a succes, both optical and synchronichally (Even I know we only see the pictures on a rather small screen). Since the CX560 is the next generation of the CX550 I can't see why it shouldn't be possible to synchronize such two cameras with the LANC-controller from http://www.digi-dat.de/produkte/index_eng.html#stefraLANC

(I don't now much about the techniques here, but couldn't there be other ways to make it work than with the Genlock technique?).

 

 

I am very courious about your project, David! And even Sony, Canon or Panasonic will make an available solution before you, you will never get the feeling of homemade satisfaction when you just go an buy a camera, ready to use! :-)

 

Cheers from Kim! :-)

Hi Kim

I do not have the NX3D1 but the TD10 and it could focus closer in 2D. In 3D one has to consider which plane you want the 3D to appear. Positive or negative parallex ie. outside the screen plane or inside? For little cameras and small screens it is safer to be inside because of the physical limitation of our eyes. For Imax screen most of the 3D effect could be pulled outside of the screen because there is visual space in front of the audience. With a small screen and by that I mean a large 3D TV screen your eyes will have to toe in like squinting badly to focus on the object - not a good idea as it will screw your brain.

another problem is the limitation of the side by side system is you could never get two lens close enough for close focus. You could converge or toe in the two camera but this send the parallex out of wack as described above. The solution is a beamsplitter rig or a half mirror rig - i will not go into that as it will require a lot of explaining. The beamspitter rig will allow two cameras to line up at zero interaxial. So macro and very tight shots could be done with this system. I am shooting a two 2/3 sensor camera mirror rig UW in my next trip with a customized housing. I am also developing a housing for two XF105 with beamsplitter and underwater housing - why the XF105? Because these camera have syncronized zoom lenses and genlock feature.

By all means try using two sony C560. You will learn about the limits soon enough. It could be made to switch on at the same time but soon the shutter, time code and sensor drift will start and the two camera will not be in sync. If you want to know more about genlock systems there are lots on the web about it. Genlocking should be at sensor, timing and shutter level down to individual pixels. two cameras will act like one unit except for the interaxial distance. 3D recorded like that will be almost free from any disparity and will be easy on the eyes. Don't take my word for it you could find out.

"And even Sony, Canon or Panasonic will make an available solution before you, you will never get the feeling of homemade satisfaction when you just go an buy a camera, ready to use! :-)"

I was only joking about what I said about these big companies. Most of the 3D innovation is not done by big corporations but by small companies and individuals. I am all for finding out yourself and make something and see if it works but a little research and discussion with like minded people will go a long way. One system I would recommend trying without breaking the bank is the Gopro 3D. These uses two GoPro hero HD camera and they claim have a sync cable. Not much control and pretty much shoot and see system. I have tried it in S. Africa and took some shoots a few weeks ago. I will post some video up later. Just have to find time to do all this. Stay tuned.

Cheers

David

Hi David!

I see the problem with fixed side by side systems if you want to do macro, but in the first place I just want something quite small, with an external monitor and wide angled enough to shoot wrecks in the scandinavian waters (Which I live close to.) in a quality, worth showing at my lectures by polarized projection on my 2meter wide silverscreen! I think that functions like "Camera and Rec. on/off", "whitebal.", and "manual focus mode" will be functions enough for the wreckshooting?

I do now the GoPro cameras, but found them much to bad in quality as soon the natural light dissapears....... if just the lenses on the NX3D1 could be as wide as the lens on the GoPro... wow!!!!! :-)

If 2 x Sony CX560 will not syncro for more than a couble of minutes, I think they are out of question... I do still wonder how Eric managed to handle that problem on his 2 x CX550 rig when he made the nice records from the caves and the waters with the murane eal? I don't see anything out of synchro in these shoots!

I build my dSLR underwater stereocamera with the possibility to use it with a mirror for macro http://3dphotography.dk/ , but even I do get some nice results, I also loose a lot of pictures because of focusing problems. (Seems to be hard for the Nikon D200 with the 60mm microlens to focus on a stereoscopic mirror) I only see these problems getting bigger in continous recording with a camcorder. Another posible solution to do macro with a fixed interaxcial camera could be building a thing that works like the macroadapter: http://www.cyclopital3d.com/Fuji-W3-Close-...ro-Adapter.html for the Fuji W3.

I am really confused about what to go for, at the moment! Thinking about the synchro-problem and the recording quality, the best solution seems to be NX3D1 over the 2 x CX560 but there might not be conversionlenses wide enough to cover more than a 35mm lens on a dSLR and I don't know if it's possible to put the functions like manual focus, whitebalance, Camera and Rec. on/off to wired bottons through a remote-control... not to mention the possiblity of connecting an external monitor????

Cheers again from Kim! :-)

Hi Kim

 

I do not have the NX3D1 but the TD10 and it could focus closer in 2D. In 3D one has to consider which plane you want the 3D to appear. Positive or negative parallex ie. outside the screen plane or inside? For little cameras and small screens it is safer to be inside because of the physical limitation of our eyes. For Imax screen most of the 3D effect could be pulled outside of the screen because there is visual space in front of the audience. With a small screen and by that I mean a large 3D TV screen your eyes will have to toe in like squinting badly to focus on the object - not a good idea as it will screw your brain.

another problem is the limitation of the side by side system is you could never get two lens close enough for close focus. You could converge or toe in the two camera but this send the parallex out of wack as described above. The solution is a beamsplitter rig or a half mirror rig - i will not go into that as it will require a lot of explaining. The beamspitter rig will allow two cameras to line up at zero interaxial. So macro and very tight shots could be done with this system. I am shooting a two 2/3 sensor camera mirror rig UW in my next trip with a customized housing. I am also developing a housing for two XF105 with beamsplitter and underwater housing - why the XF105? Because these camera have syncronized zoom lenses and genlock feature.

 

By all means try using two sony C560. You will learn about the limits soon enough. It could be made to switch on at the same time but soon the shutter, time code and sensor drift will start and the two camera will not be in sync. If you want to know more about genlock systems there are lots on the web about it. Genlocking should be at sensor, timing and shutter level down to individual pixels. two cameras will act like one unit except for the interaxial distance. 3D recorded like that will be almost free from any disparity and will be easy on the eyes. Don't take my word for it you could find out.

 

"And even Sony, Canon or Panasonic will make an available solution before you, you will never get the feeling of homemade satisfaction when you just go an buy a camera, ready to use! :-)"

 

 

 

I was only joking about what I said about these big companies. Most of the 3D innovation is not done by big corporations but by small companies and individuals. I am all for finding out yourself and make something and see if it works but a little research and discussion with like minded people will go a long way. One system I would recommend trying without breaking the bank is the Gopro 3D. These uses two GoPro hero HD camera and they claim have a sync cable. Not much control and pretty much shoot and see system. I have tried it in S. Africa and took some shoots a few weeks ago. I will post some video up later. Just have to find time to do all this. Stay tuned.

 

Cheers

 

David

I am really confused about what to go for, at the moment! Thinking about the synchro-problem and the recording quality, the best solution seems to be NX3D1 over the 2 x CX560 but there might not be conversionlenses wide enough to cover more than a 35mm lens on a dSLR and I don't know if it's possible to put the functions like manual focus, whitebalance, Camera and Rec. on/off to wired bottons through a remote-control... not to mention the possiblity of connecting an external monitor????

Cheers again from Kim! :-)

Hi Kim

Hey great gear. I really like the twin Nexus housing rig. Looks fantastic.

There is a difference between 3D still photography and 3D video stereoscopy. One is static and frozen in time the other is moving frame after frame at certain speed, lighting, colour balance etc. Much more technically complex and requires precise equipment. Any misalignment of these things temporal disparity will throw the 3D sterescopy out of sync - after 5 to 10 minutes your eyes will strain and the brain will hurt. Not to mention moving images has to maintain certain illusion to make the moving image believable.

I am working on the TD10 3D footage from my recent trip. You could see them first before you decide. IMHO the NX3D1 is still better of the two options (the other being 2 x Cx560). Even the TD10. I have nothing against the CX560 and people trying to make these work. As I said before project these up on a large screen you will see the problem or rather feel the problem between your eyes. I have done it the hard way too. I have personally tried using two XR 550 series on a mirror rig and even two x Canon 5D MII. As I said in my earlier post you will end up chucking all that away and go for proper Genlocked camcorders or integrated system like the TD 10/ NX3D1.

Yes I agree with the Gopro 3D. Only when the lighting is perfect. The wide angle is one of its strong points.

Anyway I will post some footage soon.

Cheers

David

PS. Great to know another tinkerer of equipment and gear. Really impressed with what you have done.

Hey Kim

I am really intrigued with the 50/50 mirror rig that you attached two Nexus housing to. Would you mind sharing how the mirror could withstand sea water? -I mean does it corrode and also what do you use to clean the 50/50 mirror?

best regards

David

Hi David!

Thanks for you kind words about my 3D dSLR rig! :-)

The 50/50 mirror seems to do fine in seawater, but to clean it after diving, I have to move it in and out... over time it's almost imossible not to make some scratches and mentioned in earlier post, my Nikon D200 with 60mm microlens often have some problems focusing on the mirror. The camera that shoots through the mirror seems to have less problems.

You can buy the mirrors from www.stereoscopicmirrors.com

Before I finished the dSLR-project, I bought some small pieces for testing for a remarkable small price.... you might want to do the same for testing your camcorders abillity to focus before you let the big money roll out of your pocket.

From the same kind of mirrors I have also build two 3D-displays with LCD-monitors / digital imageframes like you see at www.3dphotography.dk/3d-fremvisning.htm . These displays works very well, using polarized glasses.

Looking forward to see your results and footage! :-)

Cheers Kim!

Hey Kim

 

I am really intrigued with the 50/50 mirror rig that you attached two Nexus housing to. Would you mind sharing how the mirror could withstand sea water? -I mean does it corrode and also what do you use to clean the 50/50 mirror?

 

best regards

 

David

Oh.... forgot the info about the cleaning... perhaps because it's very simple! :-)

After every dive (With less the mirror hasn't dryed after the previous dive) I just take out the mirror and wash it in freshwater and dry it off with a soft cloth before reinserting the mirror. I also wash and dry the ports as well, s since you will not be able to take away salt crystals, etc. on the port behind the mirror, when you are below surface!

Cheers again from Kim! :-)

Hi

Here are some quick clips I put together.

Apologies it took so long I am pretty new to editing and especially in 3D. I hope you will enjoy the flying shark. 3D version will follow. Also taken using the TD10.

Cheers

David

Hi David!

Using the links directly to the youtube I managed to see the videos! What a wonderfull flying GW... That's a really nice shot that I can imagine also has demanded a lot of preparing of equipment and good luck to find the shark(s), etc... Should have been quite an experience to capture! :-)

The footage of the sixgill shark also seems to be nice but the colors looks very weak due to the small coverage of the lens (I presume you have zoomed out to the widest possible adjustment?).

I visitied the Zunow website http://www.zunow.tv/made-in-japan.html to contact them directly and ask if they have any wideangle conversion lenses available or maybe have future plans for making some, but none of their contact links seems to work........

I have also been googling the net for conversion lenses of different kinds, but haven't found anything interesting yet!

Yesterday I wrote Sony Denmark to ask them how I can expect their guarantee and eventual repair if I buy the NX3D1 in the US, UK or another country, since I can't find the camcorder in any danish store yet.

Haven't got any reply yet, but as long there are no wideangle lenses available I think I'll wait....... To make useable footages in danish waters I'll need at least a coverage of 90degrees.

Again... cheers from Kim and thank you very much for uploading the shark-footages! :-)

Hi

More uploaded 3D video. I had a disaster with one of my raid drives so I spend a few days trying to restore all my files. Here is one that I recovered. A bit more on the MVC file. I find that using Sony Vegas Pro 10 is the only way to edit at the moment. This program reads this codec natively. I find it confusing when it come to render though. To make use of the program's GPU acceleration I use AVC and then output to MP4 for upload. However I get this stretched out cinema effect. This AVC 1920 x 1280 is the format Youtube recommends. I need to try using another format to get rid of the letter box effect. This TD 10 uses MVC at 50i and this may be the problem. More experiment is required.

Despite the letter box effect I am quite pleased with the resolution with this camcorder especially when lighting is correct and when it is not silt up. I am thinking about the 3D1 now with the 24p and other formats as oppose to 50i on the TD10.

I am looking at another possibility for wide angle lenses. Some of the ones made by Sony may work. Mounting to the TD 10 camcorder may be a problem. I will let you know my progress.

regards

David

[youtubehd]7_OgLkYWRt4[/youtubehd]

Hi David!

Thanks for the uploads from your TD-10. Nice colors on the clownfishes but in my local waters I will never get even close to a result like this!

Wideanglelenses are simply a MUST for me to force the dark and murky waters in scandinavia so I made my decision so far: I will go for a homemade underwaterhousing for my FUJI W3. I know this is ceartainly not a prof. camcorder (Or even not close to) but compared to the possible alternatives right now, (NX3D1/TD-10 with 35mm lenses or dual-rig with no Genlock) I think I can learn a lot from the FUJI... specially when I put on the Raynox HD-3035-pro lenses on the FUJI W3.

Before you laugh at me, I'll ask you to take a look at these still-pictures, taken by my longtime 3D-friend, with dual Ikelite DS 125 strobes (Pictures are straight out of the box, only resized (No sharpen, etc...)): http://sorenhertz.dk/Torpedostationen/Torpedostationen.htm

I think about getting a dual 35watt HID light from Light Monkey for my rig.... quite an investment compared to the price of the camera, but when/If I want to move further with a more prof. rig, I then have the lights! :-)

Please tell me how you think about my idea/decision!

BTW: Should not forget to tell you that Søren's setup also contains a "Homebaked" dual domeport and he has made one for me as well! :-))))

A complete report will follow when I finish the project.... or as soon I have some results that is worth to show or talk about!

The very best regards again from Kim! :-)

Hi

 

More uploaded 3D video. I had a disaster with one of my raid drives so I spend a few days trying to restore all my files. Here is one that I recovered. A bit more on the MVC file. I find that using Sony Vegas Pro 10 is the only way to edit at the moment. This program reads this codec natively. I find it confusing when it come to render though. To make use of the program's GPU acceleration I use AVC and then output to MP4 for upload. However I get this stretched out cinema effect. This AVC 1920 x 1280 is the format Youtube recommends. I need to try using another format to get rid of the letter box effect. This TD 10 uses MVC at 50i and this may be the problem. More experiment is required.

 

Despite the letter box effect I am quite pleased with the resolution with this camcorder especially when lighting is correct and when it is not silt up. I am thinking about the 3D1 now with the 24p and other formats as oppose to 50i on the TD10.

 

I am looking at another possibility for wide angle lenses. Some of the ones made by Sony may work. Mounting to the TD 10 camcorder may be a problem. I will let you know my progress.

 

regards

 

David

Hi Kim

There were lots of current that day. Igara rock has a few wrecks dotted around it. The most well known wreck around this part of the South China Sea is the Seven Skies wreck. It a huge old tanker sunk in 1969 and lies in 20m (funnel) to 70m below the sea. On that same trip we could not dive there due to very strong currents. I hope to shoot some 3D there next year. Definitely need wide angle lenses.

I assume Torpedostationen is a submarine wreck? Looks awesome in the “pea soup” water….Great 3D stills. Really could see the 3D depth.

I have heard good things about the Fuji W3 when it came out. There is even a housing made for this camera. See photo attached.

It is not as much fun as making your own and the Raynox lens will not fit this housing. I would be very interested in the results with your custom housing. I am also planning to fit two matching wide angle converters to the TD10. Sony uses G lenses on this camcorder so I need to get the best possible wide glass for this. If this works then in theory putting two close-up lenses might allow focus closer? That would be awesome if it works.

Good luck with the lights. 35W HID on each would provide a lot of light. Have you considered LED lights?

Please tell me how you think about my idea/decision!

Fuji W3 would be one way for just wanting to learn about 3D video. You will soon out grow it.

BTW: Should not forget to tell you that Søren's setup also contains a "Homebaked" dual domeport and he has made one for me as well! :-))))

I would be very interested in how this dual dome port works. Most port for side by side system is flat and even with the GoPro flat port is added. Now if two cameras that could be genlocked and in their own house and each has a dome on an external mirror like yours then maybe close focus wide angle 3D is possible.

A complete report will follow when I finish the project.... or as soon I have some results that is worth to show or talk about!

Looking forward to it. I will upload more snippets of footage taken with the TD 10 and some with the GoPro soon.

Cheers

David

Hi David!

Bussy with my homebuild videoproject, I have not been online that often, lately! :-)

I really whish you luck in your search of a possible wide angle solution to the TD-10 ..... If there was any available, I probably already ordered the NX3D1? :-)

With some kind of wide angle lenses, I think you will also be able to focus closer, due to the increased DOF these lenses also provide mostly!

Well, Torpedostationen is just a place where the torpedeoboats, etc. got loaded with torpedos.... so not that much of photographic as historical interest!

I know about the housing for the W3, but as you mentioned, not for wideangle use, which imho makes it useless for underwaterphoto/videography..... at least in the scandinavian waters with low viz and light. With a price over 1000 US$ (http://www.fantasea.com/s.nl/it.A/id.497/.f) I found it to be far too expensive as well... specially if I compare it to prices on other housings for the pocket-cams.

When I'm not working on my costum build W3 housing, I try to find some information to help me figure out what kind of light to go for. As an absolute beginner I simply have to belive what I'm reading and so far I discovered both advantages and disadvantages on HID and LED.

A major issue to me do seems to be color temperature. Specially because there is no possibility of manual WB on the W3 in videomode, it looks like I should go for HID which will provide a light of about 6000 degree kelvin (Very close to the temperature of daylight)... LED should be only about 4500 kelvin..... please correct me if I'm wrong about my theory!

Except from the bulb-part, the HID from Light Monkey and Halcyon looks very strongly build and I do see many prof. videographers who uses HID as well. I just don't know if they would buy the same kind of light today, since many of the profs. has been in the buisness for several years before LED was developed.

In connecton to the WB-issue I wonder how much WB-adjustment that is possible to do in postproduction and how usefull it will be, compared to the possibility of WB-adjustment right before pressing "Record".

Cheers again from Kim... looking forward to see more of your footages! :-)

Hi Kim

 

There were lots of current that day. Igara rock has a few wrecks dotted around it. The most well known wreck around this part of the South China Sea is the Seven Skies wreck. It a huge old tanker sunk in 1969 and lies in 20m (funnel) to 70m below the sea. On that same trip we could not dive there due to very strong currents. I hope to shoot some 3D there next year. Definitely need wide angle lenses.

 

I assume Torpedostationen is a submarine wreck? Looks awesome in the “pea soup” water….Great 3D stills. Really could see the 3D depth.

 

I have heard good things about the Fuji W3 when it came out. There is even a housing made for this camera. See photo attached.

 

 

It is not as much fun as making your own and the Raynox lens will not fit this housing. I would be very interested in the results with your custom housing. I am also planning to fit two matching wide angle converters to the TD10. Sony uses G lenses on this camcorder so I need to get the best possible wide glass for this. If this works then in theory putting two close-up lenses might allow focus closer? That would be awesome if it works.

 

Good luck with the lights. 35W HID on each would provide a lot of light. Have you considered LED lights?

 

Please tell me how you think about my idea/decision!

 

Fuji W3 would be one way for just wanting to learn about 3D video. You will soon out grow it.

 

BTW: Should not forget to tell you that Søren's setup also contains a "Homebaked" dual domeport and he has made one for me as well! :-))))

 

I would be very interested in how this dual dome port works. Most port for side by side system is flat and even with the GoPro flat port is added. Now if two cameras that could be genlocked and in their own house and each has a dome on an external mirror like yours then maybe close focus wide angle 3D is possible.

 

A complete report will follow when I finish the project.... or as soon I have some results that is worth to show or talk about!

 

Looking forward to it. I will upload more snippets of footage taken with the TD 10 and some with the GoPro soon.

 

Cheers

 

David

David I think you forgot to tag your youtube video with the 3D enable!