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Read-only discussion
CP 5000 photos
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Hey Dave... really great photos! Where were they taken? I'm guessin BC?
-David
www.diveseen.com
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Thanks. All of them taken in the Northern Channel Isds of Califorina. Some of them at Richardsons rock which is actually west of Pt Conception and hence in the CA-Oregon marine ecosystem (I hope I said that right). What that means is essentially the same marine life as northen Pacific coast of N. America up to B.C. . That may be why they look like they are from B. C.
All images are essentilly Jpeg raw with only a little sharpening as I didn't have the sharpening on in the camera and a slight adjustment of the midzone levels. I present them as they are so you can see what the camera can do. The detail is not as good as the original images. Perhaps as a result of switching back to a downsized Jpeg file? On allmost all the images the histogram was classic mountain shape. I was very suprised. I almost never scan an UW image with as good a histogram. I think I still need to work on the white balance. All of these were on white Autobalance.
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Outstanding pictures! Are you using auto exposure (P) or another option? Also, what strobe are you using?
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All shot on manual exposure with 2 DS 125 strobes. Some with a dual synch cord, some with the TTL DS slave. Most shot with the external speed light varible output dialed down to -2. All shot TTL (which is not true TTL but you see works fine). Only thing I had problems with was close macro. Had to back off the strobes a foot or 2 or they would burn out the subject. I had no problems if the subject was 6 in or more away from the front of the dome port. I think this was because with the 19 mm lens you are focusing virtualy on the front of the lens (when shooting very close macro) and I think the TTL can't shut off fast enough. Most macro shot at 500 sec. shutter speed. The wide angle shots anywhere from 15 th sec. to 250 th sec. I used center weighted metering. I used auto focus for all without a focusing light. The camera was set to macro focus for all photos. Even the extreme wide angle. I used auto WB for all shots
[Edited on 6-4-2002 by davephdv]
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Do you prefer the synch cord or the TTL DS slave. Does the 125 come with a modeling light? Did you try the exposure bracketing or Best shot option? This camera has so many options.
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All shots TTL without bracketing. This is because I wanted to see what the camera will do. When I have a better handle on what camera settings to use I will probably bracket using exposure compensation. Both dual cord and slave sensor work fine. Because you have to back off for very close macro with the 19mm lens I had a little trouble lining up the slave for those shots. The DS 125 has a spotting light good enough to use as your main light on night dives. I don't use it for spotting much as I want more freedom to "feather" my strobes when I shoot. Note all the close n wide shots (the sea fans) were shot TTL. I would never try this with a film camera as the foreground is always burned out when you do this (I always shoot manual). I was surprised that that you could do this with the 5000 and get good exposures. Of course these were done in poor vis (5 to 15 ft). Not in Cozumel.
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David, James & Marc,
Let me know what you think about the below options for the cp 5000 with the 19 mm lens and a DS 125 corded.
Exposure - Manual
White Balance -Auto
Metering- Matrix
Image Adjustment -Auto
Saturation Control
Lens - Wide Adapter (19m)
Exposure Options AE lock
Focus Area Mode -Auto
Image sharpening - Auto
Noice Reduction - Off
ISO - 100
Zoom Options Fixed Aperture
Speedlight Cntrl - Auto
Speed Light Variable Power Opt. -2( this is not possible if the Lens option is set to Wide? Did you set yours lens to wide?
SIze 2560 - Res Fine
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What I use that differs from what you posted:
1. Function key set to WB. Usually leave it on auto, but I may whip through the choices to see if another WB looks better (i.e. cloudy)
Metering, spot or center weighted
Image adjustment low.
No change in the lens. I leave it on normal lens for the 19 mm
manual focus mode area
image sharpening low.
Exposure Options set to autofocus lock.
Like you I use manual exposure. I like to know my F stop and shutter speed. Though using Aperature priority makes sense
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Take II
Exposure - M or A
White Balance - Auto
Metering- Center weighted or Spot
Image Adjustment -Less Contrast
Saturation Control (I would assume low)
Lens - Normal
Exposure Options AE lock
Focus Area Mode = Manual (Need to look this one up)
Image sharpening -Low
Noice Reduction - Off
ISO - 100
Zoom Options Fixed Aperture
Speedlight Cntrl - Auto
Speed Light Variable Power Opt. -2
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I moved this to the main forum, I can't delete so please just ignore.
Thanks
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I leave saturation and contrast controls normal. Any such changes I make in PS. All those image adjusting options I leave at normal or low and make adjustments in PS. Otherwise what you posted the second time is mostly what I do. I am always experimenting (watch you air if you do this UW). I like manual focus senor selection because it gives you more creative control over framing you shot.