Skip to content

Photography Gear and Technique / Archived topic

Quesitons on Ikelite housing and e-pl1 vs d5100

Started by clernix ·

  • 5Posts
  • 5Replies

Read-only discussion

Quesitons on Ikelite housing and e-pl1 vs d5100

5 posts
  1. Hello I am new to forum but I have a ton of questions. First let me say hello.

     

     

    I am in the NKY/ Cincy area and have been diving for about 20 years. About two years ago I bought a Nikon l-11 and Fantasea housing with Remora flash. I upgraded to an Oly E-pl1 with Pen housing and twin sea and sea ys-01 and 02 strobes this year.

     

     

    I am pretty happy with the photos and gear in general. The improvement to the photos was nothing less than amazing.

     

     

    This is my dilemma, the lenses and ports are pretty expensive something I did not anticipate. I just bought a Nikon d5100 and would like to expand the lenses on it as well. I have always liked Nikon and for shooting on dry land the Oly just doesn’t do it for me.

     

     

    I like the Ikelite housing for the D5100 and if I understand right the ports seems very reasonable. I am seeing around 250-350 U.S. Are the ports for Ikelite housings normed? Does one port fit more than one housing?

     

     

    Comparing the two cameras e-pl1 and the d5100 would there be a major difference in the quality of photo. The sensor size alone should make a big difference?

    Edited by clernix
  2. Welcome to the madness.

     

    My immediate guess re: quality would be yes, you should see further image improvements going to the Nikon DSLR vs. the Micro4:3rds camera. Sensor size is part of it, so megapixel count (resolution) and sensitivity (ability to go higher ISO with less noise, or just improved dynamic range within the frame regardless) will both improve. While the m4:3rd contrast detect autofocus has been getting faster and faster, DSLR phase detect AF and shutter response should be very fast as well, making your ability to not end up with 'fish butt' improved as well. Don't forget that you'll have to get used to shooting with the optical viewfinder vs. a rear screen, and this will take some getting used to. The equipment does not in the end "make" or "break" the photo - more like it provides some headroom. So while the potential is there, it may still take some getting used to, and your strobe light doesn't magically get more powerful with a DSLR so don't expect that higher ISO alone helps you keep colors further into the frame, and that sort of thing.

     

    All Ike ports are "normed" if by that you mean same diameter at the mounting, work in any DLSR housing. They do have different lengths of course to accomodate different lenses and different lenses will also need different zoom gearing parts (two types come with the housing purchase, a normal and 'lower profile' clamp/sleeve for larger diameter lenses).

     

    You didn't say what lenses you were using on the E-PL1, but I suspect that you could start with a reasonable mid-range lens, something in the 17-50 or 17-70mm type range. I don't know Nikon lenses but you might try finding a used Sigma 17-70mm without the HSM or OS....if you pay over $350 you've probably paid too much for that one in particular. http://www.sigmaphoto.com/shop/17-70mm-f28-45-dc-macro-sigma . Try eBay, KEH.com, even B&H and Adorama have "used" shops that sometimes have these lenses. According to Ikelite it only "works" in their 8" dome but I've been experimenting with it in the 6" dome (5503.80) with what seems like reasonable results in the pool at least (without a 2x diopter the corners might be a tiny bit soft and it vignettes a little bit at maximum angle, and the lens barely fails to touch the dome interior at full extension/zoom. With a +2 diopter the corners are sharper but of course you lose a bit of the wide angle and the extra length can crash into the dome interior at about 60mm length). The molded 6" domes only list for $200 vs. the $550ish that the 8" dome plus extension will end up running. But that's just one suggestion- I'm sure you can find other used Nikon lenses that would be in a reasonable focal length range and allow you to use a cheaper dome. And of course if your real interest is wide angle or macro...then just about all that paragraph was a waste of your time. :)

     

    Also don't forget to check out the classified forums here for used Ike domes - there do tend to be several at a time, usually the 5503.50 or .55 type standard lengths for mid-range or 'standard' zooms.

     

    Remember also that you may not be able to raise the Nikon's flash inside the Ike housing, so more than likely you'll be firing your strobes with 'manual' mode, triggered from an electrical sync cable, unless you switch to Ikelite's strobes in which case you get full TTL metering. That may be different than you were probably used to with the Olympus.

  3. On the olympus the flash is raised to trigger the strobe. If the strobe is not raised in the housing how is the strobe triggerd? The Ikelite website mentions that the sea and sea strobes only work in manual and not TTL but I assumed the raised flash triggers the strobes.

  4. Hi

     

    I am in the same area of town, Deer Park Ohio

     

    I have been a ikelite user for 3 years and have some extra ports as well as knowledge to share. We should meet sometime.

     

    Drop ma a pm

     

    Bill

  5. On the olympus the flash is raised to trigger the strobe. If the strobe is not raised in the housing how is the strobe triggerd? The Ikelite website mentions that the sea and sea strobes only work in manual and not TTL but I assumed the raised flash triggers the strobes.

     

    Clernix: The Ikelite DSLR housings come with a built-in TTL circuit housed in the plastic slab that the camera is mounted to. Then there's an external cable bulkhead connection. You can get strobes that go from that connection to Sea and Sea or Inon strobes (or of course Ikelite's own). Inside the housing is a small cable pigtail that you put on the camera's flash hotshoe.

     

    If you look at the second picture down : http://www.ikelite.com/web_two/nik_d5100.html

    ...the connector is the big silvery thing to the left of the image, while the dial to the right is for providing control. With Ikelite brand strobes you get full TTL control with the knob thru the cabled electrical connection. With non-Ikelite strobes you only get manual triggering.

     

    Some DLSRs do have enough room to raise the strobe inside the Ikelite housing...but not many of them. Mine for example (Sony SLT-a55) even though it's a very small camera body, does not. So your options for triggering are thru the cable, unless you want to get more creative.

Turtle

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.