Question 2. (mainly for Nikon D100 users)

Total Rookie Question, looking for input on what settings people “typically” use for their Nikon D100 cameras. I know there are a million variables. So based on the following parameters what would you do?

Rookie who will not do any post picture doctoring at first; Nikon D100, Nikon 17-35 lens, Aquatica Housing, 2xS&S YS-90DX strobes, dive site Cozumel, mainly reefscape and fish portraits.

1. Exposure Mode Manual always, yes/no? Times it’s ok to us Auto?

2. Lens on Auto Focus?

3. ISO?? (typically in clear tropic waters)

4. Image Format? Tiff, jpeg, raw?

5. Color Mode? I(sRGB) II (adobe) III (sRGB)

6. AF Area mode: single area or dynamic?

7. Metering: 3D Matrix or Center Weighted or Spot?

8. White Balance: Auto? Sunlight? Other?

9. Image Sharpening: Auto? Normal – High?

10. Tone Compensation: Auto? Normal? Less? More?

What are other features do you like and use on the Nikon D100?? Any input welcome.

1. Manual always for macro. Manual or possibly Aperture Priority for wide angle.

2. Yes for wide angle. Occasionally for macro.

3. Always 200.

4. Always uncompressed RAW.

5. Doesn't matter for RAW.

6. Depends on what you shoot and whether you use AF.

7. Spot if you shoot manual wide angle. Matrix if you shoot AP.

8. Doesn't matter for RAW.

9. Doesn't matter for RAW.

10. Doesn't matter for RAW.

I use 1/2 stop increments underwater rather than 1/3 stop.

I always have my ISO set at 200; but don't forget that you can pop it up to 400 if you need to. I was on an Oil rig yesterday and as soon as I got to depth and evaluated the light I changed the ISO to 400.

I set my autofocus on continuous and have the camera programed so the back button autofocuses and the shutter release fires instantaneously when presses.

If shooting available light you might want to try aperture priority. I shot most of my Guadalupe Island shark shots in Aperture priority.

1. Exposure Mode Manual always, yes/no? Times it’s ok to us Auto?

Usually manual. Spot meter. Never P mode. Sometimes A mode. Sometimes S mode if fast moving pelagics are in the frame.

2. Lens on Auto Focus?

Always.

3. ISO?? (typically in clear tropic waters)

200 Always

4. Image Format? Tiff, jpeg, raw?

Uncompressed RAW Always

5. Color Mode? I(sRGB) II (adobe) III (sRGB)

Adobe RGB Always

6. AF Area mode: single area or dynamic?

Single area Always

7. Metering: 3D Matrix or Center Weighted or Spot?

Spot. This is my technique. Spot meter blue water background that I want exposed as "18% gray". Set exposure. Adjust strobe power.

This can be done in A mode. Select aperture, say f/8, point at spot, lock exposure, etc.

8. White Balance: Auto? Sunlight? Other?

Cloudy. But I shoot RAW anyway. I've since decided that 5000-5400K is where I want to start.

9. Image Sharpening: Auto? Normal – High?

Normal, but I shoot RAW so I don't care.

10. Tone Compensation: Auto? Normal? Less? More?

Normal, but I shoot RAW so I don't care.

If you get conflicting advice, figure out why each may work. Try them. See which works best for you. I try to make macro as Point & Shoot as possible, whereas wide angle can be more contemplative.

I use the fuji S2 which is very similar to the D100:

1. Exposure Mode Manual always, yes/no? Times it’s ok to us Auto?

I always use M underwater

2. Lens on Auto Focus?

I use auto 80% of the time. The only time it doesn't work well is for super-macro

3. ISO?? (typically in clear tropic waters)

Always the lowest for Macro. For wideangle, I start at the lowest and then meter the water when I get to my dive depth. If I can't get a SS faster than about 1/45th then I go to the next ISO level up.

4. Image Format? Tiff, jpeg, raw?

RAW most of the time. JPEG if I am pressed for time and have to deliver the photos right away. Set WB to auto which usually works ok.

5. Color Mode? I(sRGB) II (adobe) III (sRGB)

Adobe RGB if you can.

6. AF Area mode: single area or dynamic?

Single area. Or else you never know what it's going to focus on...

7. Metering: 3D Matrix or Center Weighted or Spot?

When in M mode, the camera doesn't use the meter

8. White Balance: Auto? Sunlight? Other?

Auto or RAW

9. Image Sharpening: Auto? Normal – High?

Shoot RAW. Set to normal otherwise

10. Tone Compensation: Auto? Normal? Less? More?

Normal unless RAW then it doesn't matter.

Hope that helps!

James

7. Metering: 3D Matrix or Center Weighted or Spot?  

 

When in M mode, the camera doesn't use the meter

It doesn't use the meter to actually set anything, but it does tell you what it thinks the EV should be.

7. Metering: 3D Matrix or Center Weighted or Spot?  

 

When in M mode, the camera doesn't use the meter

 

It doesn't use the meter to actually set anything, but it does tell you what it thinks the EV should be.

Yes, the meter continues to work in manual mode and you use it to set the background exposure in mixed light. Spot works best for this as it's easiest to put the spot on blue water just as George said.

If you use aperture priority with exposure compenstion, though, I think matrix is best. I usually use manual and spot.

So - just to clarify, the meter will keep reading light - and displaying the results in the bottom of the viewfinder. Shutterspeed if you are in A and aperture if you are in S mode.

In addition, I think the viewfinder focus boxes will turn red when the camera sees that the image is in focus - which is useful for when you are shooting manual focus. Craig and George, have you noticed this?

Cheers

James

Honestly, I don't pay attention to that. The meter reads over- or under-exposure values. Put the spot on average blue water and adjust your shutter to the exposure level you like, say -1 to -2. Of course, you've already set your aperture, haven't you?

Great info thanks all!

Given the learning curve I will probably start in jpeg until I am comfortable with controls etc… then switch to RAW. So does shooting in RAW “REQUIRE” going to PS and editing the pic? Or if you are not a perfectionist can you get by with just printing out the pics? I know on land if I get one or two pictures out of a roll worth framing I’m lucky.

On a more philosophical note; sometimes I feel using something like PS is cheating. Isn’t part of the art when all the planets align for that perfect shot? Now I don’t have to make a living at this, I can and do, take a lot of bad pics.

Question 3. Seen a lot of opinions on CF cards etc… My question is; if shooting in raw how many shots typically can a 512card or 1GB hold? Preferance on media?

Unlike film cameras, all digital camera sensors are different. They each REQUIRE at least some degree of processing in order to make a "photo." By definition, all they record is some electrons.

It's up to YOU to decide what is done with that information. You can let the camera "cook" it into a photo that it thinks is what you saw - and make a JPEG. Or you can take the RAW data into your computer and process it so that it reflects what you KNOW you saw.

No tricks and no cheating there.

Cheers

James

It's up to YOU to decide what is done with that information.  You can let the camera "cook" it into a photo that it thinks is what you saw - and make a JPEG.  Or you can take the RAW data into your computer and process it so that it reflects what you KNOW you saw.

...or what you want people to THINK you saw...or what you want people to see. Art is what you make it. Cameras and Photoshop are just some of the tools.