RX100M2... big problem!

Ive had some recent experience with the RX100M2, and I'd like to share my experiences!

Great camera, this one. So tiny and great image quality. It is quick to focus and the images look pretty sharp!

Unfortunately, the biggest problem for me (and this one could completely kill it for use underwater in my book) is the exposure simulation or live view that is built in to the camera. This shows the user a simulation of the actual image that would be produced from the aperature, shutter, and ISO settings.

Underwater, the problem is that when you dont have any ambient light you dont see ANYTHING but a black screen on the LCD after you focus. This even happens if you use the fill flash mode. The camera will cut to a black LCD with a half press of the shutter. BIG PROBLEM! I have been searching for a way to turn it off, but it doesnt appear there is a way??? You are stuck with it!

The Mk2 has a neat little feature that would be great when taking macro shots- you can actually magnify the image to make sure the important bits are in focus. But when you activate this feature, it just zooms in on a black screen. Hardly what I would call useful in practice.

Even with a focus light- in the day time it is almost impossible to see what you are focusing on unless you are in a situation with LOTS of ambient light, and arent using a strobe to light the scene.

I havent had much problem with this on land, which is why it is so frustrating. If I had known about it before hand I would never have bought the thing.

A lot of the Canon compacts had the same issue but you can turn off that function. I hope you are able to figure out how to do that with your camera as well, very frustrating

Camera in MANUAL , forced flash , iso 100- 400, you choose aperture for deep of field, you choose time for fill or freeze movement , the ttl flash do its work while the lcd stays well visible.

Thanks Mike and lisperit...

I havent found any solution yet. With the camera in forced flash, the problem remains. When magnifying the image to get good focus the LCD goes black because of a lack of ambient light.

This is a big problem when shooting in manual modes (with the strobes), as you need to lower the flash power to preserve battery life and if shot in TTL, the image will be underexposed.

Hi Uli,
have you checked this setttings
- have the AUTO DIM function of the monitor activated, set this to manual and maybe to the highest setting and you should be abe to see your images.

- use Program Auto Mode, the user manual states: According to the brightness of the environment, the program shift may not be used.

- use Auto Intelligent Mode, the user manual states: In [intelligent Auto] mode, you may be unable to shoot low light or backlit scenes clearl

Having a quick look ath the user manual downladable here: https://docs.sony.com/release/DSCRX100M2_guide_EN.pdf

i noticed the 3 settings/notes mentioned above.

Best regards

Chris

Please report the setting you are using so I can reproduce on my set up.

I always set the lcd to sunny (max brightness) when underwater.

In manual mode and forced flash the lcd does not dim at all changing time, stays bright from f1.8 to about f7.1, dims from f7.1 to f9 and this is more evident only at f10-11 but it is never dark

(f9 on 1 inch sensor being f16 on full frame)

Using manual focus the effect of changing aperture is more evident and the image become pixellated , probably Sony wanted you to be able to evaluate the deep of field.

If you want manual focus , deep or dark water , macro f stops buy a very strong fosus light, I bought the FIT Led 2400 and I am using the nauticam lcd magnifier.

Best regards

Livio

I set the lcd to sunny (max brightness)

Livio has given some good hints

However I would add that the manual focus assist is overrated and distracting

I find peaking works much better without the mf magnifier