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Strobe recomendations for a Nikon D90 in an Iklelite housing - HELP PLEASE

Started by HerbMac ·

  • 13Posts
  • 13Replies

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Strobe recomendations for a Nikon D90 in an Iklelite housing - HELP PLEASE

13 posts
  1. Hi all

     

    I am really lucky to have found this is an amazing site with heaps of info and many willing masters to share their time and knowledge - fantastic !!! I appreciate it.

     

    Hoping to receive some advice/recommendations please on strobe/s for my Nikon D90 in an Ikelite housing. I'm on a bit of budget so please do not recommend the Rolls Royce but something that will give good bang for my bucks and achieve very good results (I don't aspire to be at the pro level). Also a system that I can add on to later as I gain experience.

     

    I've been interested in photography for many years and have been using a D90 for about three years but I am new to scuba diving. I would like to stick with the D90 and I'm considering a new Ikelite housing. From my research it appears that I should have a wide angle and macro lens. I plan to use my Sigma 10-20 VR (without zoom for the Ikelite) and looking at getting a used Nikon 105 VR.

     

    Thanks in advance

     

  2. The strobe what is working with virtually every camera optical or electrically triggered is the INON Z-240.

    Powerful, rugged, able to work with almost any camera/housing combination and very fine output regulation.

    Chris

  3. Ikelite housing? Might as well use Ikelite strobes! Used ds125's run $400-$600. I've been impressed with ds50's as well but they run from $200-$400, so depending on the deal you find, 125's offer a lot of Bang for the buck.

  4. Thanks guys for the suggestions, I'll look into those.

     

    In regards to purchasing "used" strobes:

    • what life could I expect?
    • how often should all the O rings be replaced?
    • is there other bits that require periodic servicing?
    • how lond should the battery last? and
    • what percentage of the new price should be a fair deal?
  5.  

     

    In regards to purchasing "used" strobes:

    • what life could I expect?
    • how often should all the O rings be replaced?
    • is there other bits that require periodic servicing?
    • how lond should the battery last? and
    • what percentage of the new price should be a fair deal?

     

     

    • Strobes last forever... until they break.
    • I've never bought new o-rings, but I'm paranoid (or meticulous: take your pick) in looking after them.
    • Servicing doesn't really come into it.
    • Inon strobes use commercially available AA batteries: so much easier than a custom (expensive) battery pack. A full charge takes 2-300 images. Custom battery packs can degrade with time.
    • Selling: sellers would like 50% ( :mocking: ). Buying: buyers would like 20% (also :mocking: ).
  6. Hi tdpriest

     

    Thanks for answering all my questions.

    The Inon brand appeals with such low cost batteries so I will check them out.

    Also appreciate your price range for used strobes.

     

    Cheers

     

    Herb

  7.  

    Thanks guys for the suggestions, I'll look into those.

     

    In regards to purchasing "used" strobes:

    • what life could I expect?
    • how often should all the O rings be replaced?
    • is there other bits that require periodic servicing?
    • how lond should the battery last? and
    • what percentage of the new price should be a fair deal?

     

     

    I have purchased a total of 4 used strobes. I've managed to crack the body of one strobe after 3 years of use, but other than that, none of them have "worn out."

     

    Ikelite strobes don't have that many orings. There is one compression seal oring on the battery pack, which sees very little wear and you could probably go years between replacements easily. They have a quad ring on the dial/knob which also sees very little wear and I've never had one wear out.

     

    Ikelite recommends yearly service but, and don't tell them this, I think it depends on the way you use and care for the stuff.

     

    Ikelite DS125's and 160's use proprietary battery packs. They have some very old ones with nickel cadmium batteries, which you should avoid. They are likely old and worn out. They make nickel metal hydride packs which seem to function just fine with occasional or frequent use for years. Then they have lithium packs which give an insane number of shots and are so new that I doubt anyone has worn any out.

     

    What I really like about the ikelite strobes, especially when linked to the ikelite housing, is the ability to control the strobes with a dial on the housing, and the ability to quickly switch from manual at multiple powers to TTL with some variability incase the camera is figuring it wrong. Because it's electrical, you don't waste your camera battery firing the flash on your camera, which also means you can follow up faster with shots, and the custom battery packs give faster recycle times than is possible with strobes using AA batteries. If you aren't firing at full power, you can get several shots in a burst, which is, while not impossible, harder to do when using optical syncing on strobes with AA batteries. Of course, there are downsides: higher chance of strobe failure due to electrical cord failure, and the difficulty of switching to other housings later without either using nikonos bulkheads and getting a different cord, or buying the optical cable adaptors which aren't super cheap.

     

    The DS50 and DS51 use AA batteries and I like them as well. For off camera flash work, they are great because of their little red ready light which faces you when the strobe is facing away, allowing you to easily see if the slave is ready to fire.

     

    Inon and Sea and Sea both tend to use AAs, and both have really nice options. Ikelite is not the only kid on the block, and for many people, those other strobes offer a better option.

     

    For a DS125 with a NiMH pack, I would really like to pay $250, and would expect to pay $350. For a DS50, I'd really like to pay $100, but would expect to pay $200. The trick is, once you own two, then you just keep an eye out for bargains until you have 4, and then you just keep an eye out for extreme bargains... it's really hard to have too many strobes, as long as you also have enough slave triggers and models or support divers!

     

     

    If you do go with a strobe that uses AA batteries, invest in some good rechargeables and a nice charger. I like Eneloops, and I use the Eneloop charger for trips. Locally, I like a smarter charger that charges each cell individually, and has the option to give reports on mah used for the cell, and to refresh the cell by doing special charge cycles occassionally. I number my cells and keep them stored as sets in different AA battery containers.

     

    Good luck on your search! Remember to insure your equipment! (not that any of us plan to harm it but eventually the magic smoke gets out)

  8. Hey jahjahwarrior

     

    Thank you so so much for your very detailed reply covering all my queries and some addition info. I really appreciate your time and effort in putting it together.

     

    You have alerted me to the issues of battery life, costings (which I had not thought about) and recycle times - many very good points to consider further. And I like your price guides.

     

    Ideally I would like to have sufficient lighting where I will not regret getting a more powerful setup - yes I realise there is always a high cost for marginal increases in performance so I need to balance the equation of $ vrs performance.

     

    The other major consideration I have is that due to my medical condition (have a spine issue that gives me some pain) I am not 100% sure that I will continue diving. So I want to be reasonably confident that I can sell off my gear with minimal loss if the need arises.

     

    I like Ikelite products from the reviews I have read and recent telephone conversations to them (in the USA and Aust) in regards to the servicing/maintenance costs for housings and strobes so maybe I'll stick with this brand (need to research the other brands further).

     

    WOW you talk of FOUR strobes - I was think two would be sufficient for macro and wide angle shots!

     

    Insurance - great tip! BTW what does the term "but eventually the magic smoke gets out" mean in simple Aussie English please !

     

    Appreciate all your info/tips - all valuable stuff - thanks again mate!

  9. There is a visible increase in power with the ds160 vs the ds125 and the same is true for ds125 vs ds50, what are you going to be shooting? A lot of people start with two de50's.

     

    I use more than two for cave diving where models take off camera strobes to illuminate the cave and provide depth to photos, for open water there are uses for them but fish hate to carry them so...

     

    The value drop will be lower if you buy used than new. Selling price depends on condition and luck!

     

    Letting the magic smoke out is a joke because when they break, electronics sometimes let out a little smoke, like a tiny explosion of a circuit. Because there was smoke, and now it doesn't work, we joke that they run on smoke held in the circuits and once the magic smoke escapes the circuit, it stops working.

     

    p410279232-4.jpg

     

    p2051967248-3.jpg

    Edited by jahjahwarrior
  10. If you should go with a Ikelite Strobe make sure that you have a Ikelite service center near you,

    not because they are unreliable or sensible, just because they are working in a unfriendly environment.

    Ikelite is a very experienced brand building strobes for a long time and they work great using them with

    a electrically triggered housing, especially a Ikelite housing.

    I belive that today electrical connections are not really needed anymore as optical triggered strobes are

    far enough reliable to use the much less sensible optical cable to transmit the signal.

    In your case with a D90 (like my old rig) you need to use a electrical connection as Ikelite (intentionally) don't allow to use optical triggered strobes as the internal strobe will not pop open enough to fire and trigger a optical triggered strobe.

    Using a Ikelite strobe will enable you full TTL or manual exposure while using a INON Z-240 strobe will give you several options including INON's sTTL, a very good working full automatic exposure control.

     

    I bought a brand new Ikelite DS-125 strobe and a few days later at the first use i discovered that i don't work.

    Several emails with Ikelite turned out that the strobe tube was not working and that i had so ship them from
    Costa Rica to Ikelite on my expenses, while Ikelite would ship it back to Costa Rica on their expenses.

    I was very unhappy with their policy for warranty repairs, especially as this strobe was absolutely new,

    and this leads me to not buy anymore any housing from Ikelite or any other manufacturer beeing far away.

    On the end, the whole operation costed me abot 300$ shipping and reimport duties here in Costa Rica...

     

    Also, i would not consider strobes bigger than a INON simply for weight and space issues and any strobe with

    propietary battery packs for keeping things simple as almost everywhere you can get batteries while a broken

    battery pack will ruin a dive holiday greatly.

     

    Chris

    Edited by ChrigelKarrer
  11. Hey jah those cave photos are impressive - have never done that and not sure how I'd handle it but will give it a go when the opportunity comes my way.

     

    Hah I like the smoking explanation, do electronics stuff smoke underwater ? or smoke filled bubbles? just kidding mate.

     

    Appreciate your tips on the different strobes. My current situation is that I have the opportunity to buy a used Ikelite housing (4.5 years since new) with about 30-50 dives, plus one DS160 with the MiHD battery pack. This package price works out at around 50% of new price. The owner assures me that it has never been flooded and never failed. I am concerned with a bit of corrosion on nearly all the push buttons at the rear and bits and pieces on a lot of the other controls. I have enquired with Ikelite in the USA and they say these housing can last decades with regular maintenance. They quoted USD 125 to change all the orings, washers etc plus any corroded shafts, buttons, screws - that's a fantastic price. They did say I need to go through the Aussie dealer so total cost with shipping to all parties will be around AUD 300 and could take 4-6 weeks. I am thinking this may be a wise investment so I will have some peace of mind. The other concern I have is that this housing has only two port locks where the new models have three. The person I spoke with in service at Ikelite USA assured me that the two lock system has not been a problem in the past. What are your thoughts on these please?

     

    Also if I go ahead with this package what strobe could I combine? A forum member has a pair of DS125s for sale that all seem reasonable in age and price. I was thinking of using two (the 160 and one 125) and keeping the other as a spare. Appreciate your thoughts again please.

  12. Forgot to mention that I plan to shoot macro (anything that will stay stationary for a novice) and wide angle shots of schools of fish, large creatures, sea scapes, wrecks etc.

  13. It saddens me that you have had such a bad experience with a new strobe resulting in high additional costs and loss of use while away. It also does not give you confidence with the brand. I too would not be happy. Your advice of having cost-effective access to a dealer is essential for warranty stuff and one that I should clarify with Aussie agents - thanks.

     

    On issue of electrical connectors and optical triggering I have not considered optical as you pointed out that the flash in inoperative in the Ikelite housing for the D90. At this early stage of my underwater photography venture I will stick with cables unless I am convinced I should be with the optical trigger system. I welcome further information/discussion.

     

    In regards to weight that is a worthy consideration.I have come to the realisation that I will need my wife accompanying me (or wear an overcoat with lots of big pockets - just kidding) or buy extra luggage capacity when going on air travel for dive holidays. Ideally I would prefer to take my own tank and weight belt and BCD weights so that I know I will be trimmed exactly how I want to be, but this could be very expensive so I guess I should enquire with the LDS at my destination to ensure I get the desirable tank specs and individual weights to match what is my ideal plus a pre dive to ensure all is OK.

     

    Thanks again for sharing your experiences and knowledge - very helpful.

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