Olympus 5050C - what strobe and what WA lense?

Hi

I am a newbie in UW photography and looking for some advise. I have an Olympus 5050C with the Olympus PT15 UW-case. I am looking now to buy a strobe and WA lense. Does anybody have a recommendation? I read somewhere that there is a TTL solution with the 5050C. Has anybody some experience with that? how about the lense: what kind of lense and what do I need ontop of that (Dome etc....) thanks for help

Hi...

Hmm... a suggestion... IKelite #6130.55 for oly 5050, Ikelite DS-125, Inon Wide angle lens...hmm...

Many answers, recommendations and suggestions:

http://www.splashdowndivers.com/photo_gall...aphy/index.html

thanks for your info - might consider the Ikelite solution but first have to find out what to do with my PT15

thanks

andreas

thanks for your info - might consider the Ikelite solution but first have to find out what to do with my PT15

 

thanks

 

andreas

Ha ha ha... I had mine as a experimental Housing... stripe it apart, change o-ring, test different o-ring, etc etc...

I've used the Inon WA lens with dome port and Inon Z220 strobes and PT-015 for the last year or so. The results are posted at my site http://herbko.net .

It depends on your preferences in a setup. I value a compact system that's easy to manuver to tight places and manual strobe adjustment for lighting control. The advanges or the Inon strobes are:

1) 11 manual adjustments over 5 stops

2) It's smaller than a DS50 and much smaller than a DS125. When you factor in the optical connection vs the controller + the sync cord the difference it make in the size of you setup is hugh.

3) Standard AA batteries.

Jeff and Ike have reported conflicting results on the brightness and coverage. I'll just say that the brightness and uniformity of the Z220's are more than sufficient for the 5050 + the Inon Dome lens.

I've used the Inon WA lens with dome port and Inon Z220 strobes and PT-015 for the last year or so. The results are posted at my site http://herbko.net ..

Hi herbko...I'm juz wondering when u are using your Z220 with your PT-015, does the Modeling light/Target light turns on like the D180? and switces off itself when the strobe fires? I guess u are using the optical cable, right?

If it does not turns on or not useable using the optical cable, why not Z220s or the D180?

I've used the Inon WA lens with dome port and Inon Z220 strobes and PT-015 for the last year or so. The results are posted at my site http://herbko.net ..

 

 

Hi herbko...I'm juz wondering when u are using your Z220 with your PT-015, does the Modeling light/Target light turns on like the D180? and switces off itself when the strobe fires? I guess u are using the optical cable, right?

 

If it does not turns on or not useable using the optical cable, why not Z220s or the D180?

I got the Z220 partly because I didn't know the modeling light wouldn't work with it and partly thinking that I'll have the stobes long after I'm done with the PT-015. The latter is true but it does not work with the A300 either until Aquatica works out the control circuit for the Z220.

I used a couple of D180's for one trip and decided I rather have the extra power and control of the Z220 over the working modeling light and auto exposure mode of the D180.

You might be more concerned about giving up TTL unless using Ikelite SubStrobe DS-50 or DS-125 with their new 5050 housing. Inon is fine, but can only operate as a manual strobe.

You might be more concerned about giving up TTL unless using Ikelite SubStrobe DS-50 or DS-125 with their new 5050 housing.  Inon is fine, but can only operate as a manual strobe.

Yes I know, Ike...TTL is Fantastic on the Ikelite housing! but i think I'm ready for that trade off...I guess I should be trying to master manual strobe photography rather then using TTL... Reason I bought Ikelite housing is that they are much better then the PT-015 and give me an option to go TTL when I want to....but for the time being...I'm trying to master without TTL.

When I did my own servicing of the PT-015, it's unbeliveable what I've found.... buttons leaking, salt crystal, o-ring not sitted properly, some kind of crack/scratchline on button seats.....but then again, that might juz be my luck... :roll:

You can see some of the pictures here...

http://img59.photobucket.com/albums/v179/G...button_copy.jpg

Gildow photos 2-11 are the result of getting housings wet while #1 shows the sparkling result.

Gildow photos 2-11 are the result of getting housings wet while #1 shows the sparkling result.

hee hee..well said..but #1 was not taken by me...

below are the links to my pictures taken during my recent trip(may 1st) to Thousand Island in Indonesia...

Pictures are taken using SunPak's G-Flash...using manual control. The strobe looks very much like a epoque but in black color.

Some of the shots are taken with a UN wide angle lens...even the close-up

http://img59.photobucket.com/albums/v179/G...nt=P1010774.jpg